Bitter Disappointment

The first part of today was wonderful and merits a gushing post of its own, so that will follow. But it was such a tiny part of this much too long day that I can’t even start with that.

Today was a case of déjà vu. Remember the first time I crossed the Rockies? The day started off great then went to pots around Revelstoke when I discovered I’d lost my 12V power. Followed a mad dash to the Okanagan. Well, that was today. Except the troubles started after the Columbia Ice Fields. And they were engine related.

I was coming down a very, very long 8% grade in low gear when my check engine light came on. It bugged me, but I know that a non-flashing check engine sign signifies a minor problem. Miranda was running great and not making any odd noises. I continued on and stopped a good while later after a stretch of flat so that I could sort of coast into the rest spot instead of having to jam the brakes to make it. My brakes weren’t mushy or showing any signs of problems, but I didn’t want to take any chances.

Soon as Miranda was stopped, she stalled. I took a deep breath, had a bathroom and snack break, then tried to start her. She’d start, then stall. I waited until the coast was clear behind me, started her, shifted into drive, and hit the gas. It took two tries, but she got going. Once she was moving, all was well and she performed well without a hint of trouble. Engine heat and RPMs were normal, there were no odd noises or smells.

I was out in the middle of nowhere and figured that if she was moving okay, I’d better keep going. I had about a hundred kilometres to the junction to the Transcanada highway in which to figure out my next move.

My options were:

1) Go east to Banff. But what then? I’d be a hundred kilometres out of my way in $50-night-for-boondocking territory.

2) Go south to Cranbrook via Kootenay park, as planned. I didn’t want to see the Kootenays that way and I had no idea what sort of conditions I would be heading into.

3) Go west via the Transcanada highway to 97A and the Okanagan, like I did back in ’08. This would get me out of the federal parks and into civilization along a well traveled road. I knew that Kelowna was a long, but doable, distance away, that I could get there with the gas I had on board, and that there I would be well situated to get help or even a tow to Osoyoos if needed.

I picked option 3, of course, and made yet another dash through Yoho, Glacier, and Revelstoke national parks. *sighs* I worked my ass off all summer to make this fall trip especially memorable and instead I’m living a nightmare all over again. Every time I had to stop for construction or a red light took ten years off my life. Some times she’d start up in one try, sometimes it took several. Once, in Vernon, she didn’t even conk out. Crossing that town almost made me regret not picking the Walmart there, but there are a ton of turns and stops and red lights to get into that store while the one in Kelowna is right off the highway.

The mechanical issue is surely minor. I probably have a clog in my fuel intake line or the air filter. It might even be something I’ll recognize the minute I pop the hood tomorrow morning. But put yourself in my shoes: you’re five hundred kilometres from civilization and your stalling vehicle runs normally when you get it going. Would you stop to try to solve the problem right there or make a run for it?

So, I’m now a couple of hours away from Osoyoos and my fun is thoroughly spoiled. Even if I get the problem solved first thing in the morning I’m too close to my destination for it to make sense running around for another week. I think I’ll just call the RV park and see if they can take me in early, then get a head start on the contract/job hunt.

I’m too tired and angry right now to make any sort of wild affirmations about what I may choose to do or not do the next time I take Miranda on the road, but I’m pretty sure this is going to be the last time I take her on a scenic detour.

Jasper and Environs

I decided to go into Jasper today with the toad, much like I did when I visited Banff. There was a museum exhibit I did not want to miss, not believing my good fortune at being here in time for it, and I also wanted to check out some of the surrounding area. It made better sense to do that with the smaller vehicle with good gas mileage! This is going to be rather a long post, but I don’t feel that the individual items deserve their own posts. I’ve interspersed some photos into the text, but do check out the gallery in its entirety for more details.

Jasper townsite is about 75km from Hinton, nearly an hour away. It was almost noon when I pulled up to the park gates. I was asked if I was stopping in the park (no pass is required if you drive straight through) and, if so, for how many days. I replied that I would be going in and out today and would be going through tomorrow. I don’t know if it was the lateness of the hour or what, but I was given a pass that’s good till 4PM tomorrow for the daily rate!

en route to Jasper townsite

Like Banff, Jasper is located within a national park. Unlike Banff, Jasper has an industry outside of tourism so it has a stable economic base that does not fluctuate with the seasons. My impression of Jasper is that it is a more humble version of the ritzy tourist town (think Banff, Aspen, Whistler…). It’s a bit grittier than I would have expected, store and gas prices are reasonable, and homes tend to be modest… even though a tiny bungalow costs a half million dollars!

downtown Jasper

The town is small and doable on foot, so I just parked at the entrance and did a sort of figure eight through the streets, taking in the major landmarks. I noted that there is well-marked RV parking in town.

Jasper Library

I was eager to get to the museum to see the exhibit about the explorer David Thompson.

Jasper museum

Thompson is an explorer who charted most of the continent in the early 19th century. His maps are legendary. He was a man who understood that he was witnessing sweeping changes to the British North American regime and the birth of a nation. He was the one who charted a usable route through the Rockies, securing what is now British Columbia, a land the Americans were eying. Thompson’s explorations united eastern and western Canada and helped shaped the nation that was born on July 1, 1867. Like many great men, he died penniless and insignificant. A sad end to a remarkable story.

excerpt from Thompson’s diary

The Jasper museum is excellent! It charts the history of the park and the townsite from prehistory to today. Like many towns, Jasper’s heyday ended with the demise of the railroad era. Today, the Jasper Lodge attractions the wealthy and famous sort of folk that were the original visitors to Jasper until reliable roads made the area and townsite more accessible. It was around the 1950’s that the idea came to charge people an entrance fee into the park.

gate into Jasper, circa 1950

After getting my fill of the museum, I grabbed some lunch and then headed out of town to travel the Maligne Lake Road.

Jasper train yard

This road leads to the swanky Jasper Lodge, as well as several geographic landmarks of interest: Maligne Ravine, Medicine Lake, and Maligne Lake. Maligne comes from old French that means ‘wicked’, thus named by a man of the cloth who had a difficult time making a portage.

Maligne Valley

Maligne Ravine was my favourite outdoor part of the day. The sinuous, claustrophobic channel with its thunderous waterfalls and turquoise pools filled me with wonder. I practically hung off the side of the bridges to try to get a sense of the sheer drop with my camera, but I don’t think I really captured it. The view was such that I didn’t even think about the height factor. I just wanted to take it all in!

Maligne Ravine

Next stop was Medicine Lake, so called by the local natives because they felt the lake contained medicine, or magic. This lake looks like a lake in the summer, but drains in the fall, leaving only shallow pools! The mystery has been explained, but it’s still quite a sight to behold!

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Shortly after Medicine Lake, I encountered a pair of moose:

The final stop of the day was Maligne Lake, considered one of the most beautiful in Canada. It was worth the nearly one hour drive from Jasper townsite!

Maligne Lake

I did pop over to the Jasper Lodge on the way back, but I was most certainly not dressed to be walking around a posh property inconspicuously, so I was a bit shy and only got a shot of it from a distance:

Jasper Lodge

Coming home, I finally had a wildlife sighting I’ve been eager for. I’ve seen deer, caribou, moose, bison, foxes, wolves, bears, and more, but I’ve never seen a wild sheep before! Thank you construction for slowing down traffic!

sheep

I ended the day by popping into Hinton to scope out the best gas station at which to fuel up Miranda tomorrow (the Shell on the north side) and to get some groceries (VERY nice IGA!).

When I got home, I hooked up the water and sewer hoses after filling the fresh water tank. I dumped the holding tanks and will put away everything once I’ve had a long shower tonight. The car is already hooked up, so there won’t be too much to do to get ready tomorrow. I’ll have a lot of ground to cover and many things to see, so I don’t want to waste too much time puttering around here.

Finally, here is a shot of the campground:

Hinton/Jasper KOA

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

downtown Jasper

downtown Jasper

downtown Jasper

downtown Jasper

I'd love to bank here!

I’d love to bank here!

Nearly freezing out, with snow on the ground, and they're mowing the lawn!

Nearly freezing out, with snow on the ground, and they’re mowing the lawn!

Jasper Visitors' Centre

Jasper Visitors’ Centre

downtown Jasper

downtown Jasper

downtown Jasper

downtown Jasper

IMGP0650

Jasper Library

Jasper Library

IMGP0653

playground with a view

playground with a view

IMGP0655

Jasper museum

Jasper museum

banner promoting the Thompson exhibit

banner promoting the Thompson exhibit

IMGP0659

IMGP0660

IMGP0662

IMGP0663

IMGP0664

IMGP0665

IMGP0666

IMGP0667

gate into Jasper, circa 1950

gate into Jasper, circa 1950

IMGP0669

IMGP0670

IMGP0671

IMGP0672

IMGP0673

IMGP0674

David Thompson

David Thompson

IMGP0676

IMGP0677

IMGP0678

IMGP0679

IMGP0680

excerpt from Thompson's diary

excerpt from Thompson’s diary

IMGP0682

IMGP0683

IMGP0684

IMGP0685

IMGP0686

IMGP0687

IMGP0688

IMGP0689

painting of Thompson portaging in the Kootenays

painting of Thompson portaging in the Kootenays

IMGP0692

IMGP0693

IMGP0694

IMGP0696

IMGP0697

IMGP0698

IMGP0700

IMGP0701

Jasper train yard

Jasper train yard

IMGP0703

IMGP0704

IMGP0705

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

IMGP0719

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

IMGP0729

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

teahouse at the Maligne Ravine

teahouse at the Maligne Ravine

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

IMGP0739

IMGP0740

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

IMGP0745

IMGP0746

moose

moose

IMGP0748

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Jasper Lodge

Jasper Lodge

Jasper Lodge

Jasper Lodge

sheep

sheep

Hinton/Jasper KOA

Hinton/Jasper KOA

Miranda at the Hinton/Jasper KOA

Miranda at the Hinton/Jasper KOA

Quick Look at Hinton and Thinking About Jasper

I ended up driving into Hinton for dinner tonight and also to gas up the toad. Highway 16 shoots straight through town and on each side of it are the usual big box stores, including a Walmart and a Canadian Tire. There might be more to the town, but at first glance it doesn’t seem like much.

The restaurant choices were uninspired so being in the mood for shrimp I ended up at Joey’s Only Seafood. Never been to that chain before even though I have lived and traveled through many towns with one. The food was adequate, reasonably priced, and had generous but not not exaggerated quantities. It wouldn’t be my first choice next time I go out for dinner, but for tonight it worked. I had a shrimp and chicken combo with rice and veggies.

I then gassed up the toad, at 91.9! I will make sure to gas up both vehicles at the very limit of Alberta to take full advantage of the price here!

While I had planned to go to Jasper tomorrow, I may end up hanging out at home instead. Both vehicles badly need an exterior cleaning and I have a few things to troubleshoot. There doesn’t seem to be enough to do in Jasper to justify the 140km round trip in the toad, nor paying the park entry fee twice. I might take up Croft’s suggestion from 2008 and instead get up early on Wednesday, park Miranda on the edge of town, and then explore at my leisure. Decisions, decisions. 🙂 Whatever I do, I do not want to spend a night within the park borders; I simply cannot justify paying $40-$50 to boondock on Crown land!!!

Faster Than a Speeding Bullet!

The Hinton KOA has wi-fi, but it’s of the satellite variety. They are upfront that it is ‘not high speed.’

I haven’t tried it. Why bother when there’s high speed cell service out here?

In Dawson, a good download speed was 1MBS, but I usually hovered around 985kbs. Well, I’ve been hitting more than 310mbs tonight in rural Alberta! It’s incredible! I had no idea I could get speeds like that from an aircard! I can even stream video! With these numbers, I’m definitely going to be hitting my 5GB limit in no time!

The Big Horn Highway

Since I was going to lose an hour today, moving into Alberta time, I wrangled my butt out of bed by 8PST and was on the road within the half hour.

Gas in Dawson Creek was the cheapest I had seen since leaving the Yukon: 106.9. Having only a third of a tank left and heading into unknown territory I was going to take advantage of this low price when suddenly I remembered that several Alberta guests this past summer told me that gas is very cheap in Alberta. Having more than enough fuel to get to the next big town, Grande Prairie, I decided to see if this was true.

Immediately after Dawson Creek, you enter the oddly named town of Pouce Coupe. I’m going to go out on a limb here and say the town lost its accent and is actually Pouce Coupé or Cut Thumb. As I said, odd name. 🙂

The first gas station after the Alberta border is a Fas Gas offering easy RV access, which is more important to me than price. Even when the price is 96.9. Ninety-six point nine. Ninety-six point nine. Less than a dollar a litre!!! I sure was glad I didn’t gas up in Fort St John (109.9) or Dawson Creek!

I pulled out the GPS for the first time in so long that it thought the nearest Walmart was in Fairbanks, 400km away! I put in the town of Hinton so that the GPS could give me an estimated ETA time. It said 2:30ish PST which felt like a reasonable driving day.

Out of Dawson Creek, one takes BC highway 2, which becomes Alberta highway 43. At Grande Prairie, you need to turn south to highway 40, The Big Horn Highway, and then it’s a straight shot to Hinton, gateway to Jasper. Thanks to Mile by Mile I knew to expect a good, but isolated, road with some steep grades.

Except for some rough patches near the end, the road was a dream to drive! The grades were all short and sweet and the landscape was amber and verdant as far as I could see. Which wasn’t far seeing as I drove straight into fog and snow all day. The conditions weren’t bad enough to pull over since the snow wasn’t sticking to the road, but the limited visibility meant for a slow pace. A lot of people honked at me today. With only a tiny handful of places to pull over, there wasn’t much I could do to soothe their impatience.

IMGP0627

IMGP0630

IMGP0631

IMGP0632

The RV park I’d picked ended up being closed for the season even though the website said they were open well into October! I was not pleased since there was no way to turn around. After driving hard for six hours, the last thing I wanted to do was unhook the car and figure out how to turn the motorhome around. At least, I did that instead of pushing on down a tiny road hoping to find a place to turn without having to unhook!

There were a couple of other options, the nearest of which was the KOA which I knew was open. Like many RVers, I avoid KOAs since they are very pricey, but I decided to check out this one. Lo and behold, a FHU site was just $30.90, taxes included. It must be an off season rate! I paid up for two nights, but won’t be hooking up the water and sewer tonight since it’ll probably go down to freezing. I’ll just finish off my fresh water tank with an indecently long hot shower and then refill the fresh water and dump the black and grey tomorrow… after I get back from visiting Jasper!

For tonight, I am debating driving into Hinton and having dinner… but staying home with a movie and leftover spaghetti sounds sooo appealing.  It seems that the more I settle into my RVing life the less of a tourist I become!