A Threat Made Reality

snow

It’s minus two here in Dawson Creek and supposed to snow through to Thursday, but it is supposed to be warmer tomorrow. The forecast in Fort St John is slightly better, but none of the RV parks are open. I’ve therefore decided to stay one more night in Dawson Creek, overnight in Fort St John tomorrow, and then take advantage of the two days of clear weather we’re supposed to get to find someplace cheap to hunker down for a bit if needed.

The Alaska Highway Adventure has begun.

(I still need to go out at some point today; I’m out of coffee!)

First Enjoyable Bike Ride

It’s a long weekend here in British Columbia, so I suspected that Canadian Tire would have a major sale on outdoorsy stuff. I therefore waited to purchase my missing kayak and bicycle accessories.

The Canadian Tire in Dawson Creek didn’t have everything I wanted in stock, but I was very happy with what they did have, being able to finish kitting out my bike at rock bottom prices. As for the kayak, I scored a life vest at a great price, but I’m still up the creek without a paddle! I’ll try the one in Fort St John tomorrow and if that doesn’t pan out (ooh, nice pun considering the road I’m on!) there’s always the one in Whitehorse where I could have the paddle I want brought in for me.

For the bike, what I needed most was a good pump. The few times I’d been out, the riding wasn’t enjoyable because of underinflated tires. I had a pump, but it was crap! This time, I got a really good pump, with a pressure gauge, for 60% off. The other item I got is very self-indulgent: a silicon seat cover!

I got home and decided to try out my bike on the Dawson Trail. Getting it out of the trunk was easier than I’d expected and getting the front wheel back on only took moments. The reverse was equally easy. Now that I know this, I won’t hesitate to take the bike out on those nights when I’m urban dry camping and want to explore.

The tires pumped and the gears lubricated, I set off for a short ride that turned out to be very enjoyable! What a difference properly inflated tires make! I am absolutely in love with this bicycle. It handles like a mountain bike but is lightweight like a racing model; the best of both worlds! I had no problem navigating gravel and potholes.

Here are some more pictures of the Dawson Trail:

Rotary Lake; Dawson Creek's manmade lake and popular swimming hole

Rotary Lake; Dawson Creek’s manmade lake and popular swimming hole

This charred area still has a very strong burn smell

This charred area still has a very strong burn smell

This sort of sky is apparently very common in Dawson Creek; the weather changes quickly and for short periods.

This sort of sky is apparently very common in Dawson Creek; the weather changes quickly and for short periods.

The Alaska Highway

While being something of a WWII history buff, I’ve always focused on Europe with little attention paid to the conflict in the Pacific. So, a lot of what I’ve learned about the building of the Alaska highway surprised me. Of course, I take some of it with a grain of salt, recognizing the scent of American propaganda, but the facts are not in dispute.

First, let me comment on the various names this road has gone through, of them ‘AlaskaN highway’, ‘Alaska-Canada highway’, and ‘Alcan highway.’ The latter is my favourite as it seems more inclusive. But since the purpose of the exercise was to create an inland route to Alaska, I can accept the decision to go with ‘Alaska highway.’ 🙂

The Alaska highway was commissioned in 1942 a few months after the bombing of Pearl Harbor. There was a very real fear that Japan would attack the west coast of North America. The Japanese even had an outpost just 700mi and change for the Aleutian Islands. The air route across Canada and into Alaska territory was unreliable as were the off shore sea routes. The Alaska highway would serve two goals: provide a secure overland route into the territory and reassure the American public that the Americans were doing everything possible to secure North America against the Japanese.

The building of this highway astounds me. It was done in eight months with very little planning by a team that had no experience in sub-arctic road construction, cold-weather survival, or heavy equipment handling. The American army engineers basically blasted their way through the wilderness and in doing so created a feat of engineering some say is only second to the building of the Panama Canal.

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Some 4,000 of the 11,000 men who built the highway were black, working in segregated troops under white commanders.

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These men worked against formidable prejudices–that they were too lazy, stupid, and unsuitable to cold climates to be of any use. Yet, they persevered in the hope that they would be rewarded with changed circumstances back home.

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Dawson Creek has a relatively new (2007) museum devoted to the building of the Alaska highway. It is located right behind the Mile 0 post that stands in the centre of the intersection of 10th Avenue and 102 Street. Admission is free. Plan an hour and a half to visit the museum in order to take in the 60 minute PBS movie about the building of the highway. This movie is peppered with commentary by actual engineers, both black and white, involved with the project. My favourite part of the museum was the showing of home movies by one of the engineers; they are in colour!

Today, the Alaska highway is shorter and straighter than it was back in 1942. It is paved and lined with all the comforts and trappings of civilization. And, yet, it is still synonymous with adventure.

A friend said to me, about being at Mile 0, that I must be ‘vibrating.’ Oh, yes. Very much so. 🙂

Mile 0

Like Moosejaw, Dawson Creek is a faded old town milking its heyday for all its worth. Even though it sits at Mile 0 of the Alaska highway, it is not the place to place to stock up on supplies and enjoy one last taste of civilization. Locals recommend heading about 75km up the Alaska Highway to Fort St-John, a larger community. It is still a ‘must stop at location’ for history buffs or if only to catch a glimpse of the famed Mile 0 markers:

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The town is quiet and sleepy. Some folks, like the managers of the Mile 0 RV Park where I’m staying seem jaded to all the folks who come and go while others, like the gals at the tourist info centre or the wonderful manager of Read’s Books, recognize that giddy tourists like me are not only the lifeblood of this town, but also the source of memorable stories.

The city, like Dawson City in the Yukon, is named for George Mercer Dawson, a Canadian scientist and surveyor.

George Mercer Dawson, from one of Dawson Creek's many murals

George Mercer Dawson, from one of Dawson Creek’s many murals

Dawson Creek was originally a farming community, but soon became a railroad hub until it was invaded by American troops in the dead of winter of 1942. That invasion will be described in further detail in my next post, but to show that I’m not exaggerating:

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Most of the town being shut tight on Sundays, I only did a walking tour yesterday afternoon. It was disappointing and I quickly gave up. Most of the landmarks on the tour have been destroyed and I got tired of markers saying that ‘such and such was located here in Dawson Creek’s hey day.’

I then went home, refilled my Nalgene water bottle, and set off to walk part of a trail that starts about a block from the RV park and which goes straight through town. Some stretches were quite desolate while others had me going through shanty towns.

Dawson Trail

This morning, I visited the railroad museum that gives a bit of general history of Dawson Creek.

Dawson Creek Visitors' Centre and Museum

Dawson Creek Visitors’ Centre and Museum

This exhibit gave me pause. It makes note of the ‘old-style’ Canadian money:

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Old-style?! Heck, I remember how unimpressed I was when these ‘old fives’ were replaced by the blah new version, as well as the kerfuffle when the dollar bill was replaced by the loonie! The former was only about ten years ago and the latter about twenty years ago (already!!!). It’s a bit shocking to be thirty and to see familiar things become antiques! 😀

The rest of what I did and saw belongs in the next post, so keep reading! 🙂

Distance is Relative

It was at about 60km shy of Dawson Creek that I saw my first sign announcing Whitehorse, 1,500km away.

At this point, 1,500km seems like a hop, skip, and a jump.

By the most direct route, Whitehorse is 5,500km from Ottawa. I don’t believe in getting from A to Z without passing by the whole alphabet, so I’ve put about 7,000km on Miranda since I left Ottawa in September.

1,500km from Ottawa would take me to Madison, Wisconsin, a distance that I’ve driven in three days; two very easy, one very hard (+1,000km).

So, sitting here at Mile O with just 1,500km to go, I anticipate a leisurely week of meandering through the muskeg, knowing that I’ll be there soon enough and don’t need to even think about my June 1st deadline, while I’ve heard my  neighbours at the park say that they need to ‘ride hard’ because Whitehorse is ‘so far away.’ *shrugs*