Parks Canada’s Bear Creek Compound

Parks Canada’s Bear Creek Compound is somewhat legendary in Dawson as few have stepped foot in it. Today, for the first time in at least seven years, and possibly for the last time, the compound was opened to the public for a few hours. Checking it out seemed like a good use of my afternoon break!

From the Parks Canada website:

Bear Creek is an industrial complex of some 65 buildings and related structures located in the Klondike River Valley, 10 kilometres east of Dawson City. From 1905 to 1966, Bear Creek was the Klondike headquarters for corporate mining interests, acting as the administrative and repair centre for the goldfield’s dredging operations. These huge dredges worked the goldfields, replacing the small individual miner of the gold rush and ensuring the viability of gold mining as a profitable business up until 1966.

(For a refresher course on dredges, go back to my post about Dredge No. 4.)

Parks Canada acquired the complex in 1975 but because of environmental concerns could not do too much with it. One of the biggest hazards is the mercury that was used in the gold extraction process. The cost of rehabilitating the site to make it safe for the public would be prohibitive. Today, Parks Canada mostly uses the buildings for storage, but there is one garage left for repairing big machinery.

Visiting the compound was an extraordinary experience. The majority of the buildings are in some stage of decay, mostly advanced, and many have artifacts left in situ, as though time has stood still. It reminded me a lot of touring Alcatraz, actually, and the weight of history was incredibly present.

IMGP0461

the mess hall

the mess hall

IMGP0463

IMGP0464

the floors in the messhall undulate like fields of prairie wheat

the floors in the messhall undulate like fields of prairie wheat

IMGP0468

IMGP0469

Parks Canada lumber storage

Parks Canada lumber storage

IMGP0471

IMGP0472

the most impressive building--you open a very heavy and thick door into a dark and earthy-smelling tunnel. My camera's flash did too good a job here!

the most impressive building–you open a very heavy and thick door into a dark and earthy-smelling tunnel. My camera’s flash did too good a job here!

exterior of the root cellar

exterior of the root cellar

tailing

tailing

IMGP0476

IMGP0477

IMGP0478

that yellow never fails to take my breath away!

that yellow never fails to take my breath away!

IMGP0480

IMGP0481

IMGP0482

IMGP0484

this machine was cast in Ohio!

this machine was cast in Ohio!

IMGP0486

decay

decay

IMGP0488

this cavernous building once held all manner of giant machinery

this cavernous building once held all manner of giant machinery

IMGP0490

IMGP0491

IMGP0492

IMGP0493

IMGP0494

a giant transformer

a giant transformer

IMGP0496

permafrost wreaking havoc in the tin shop

permafrost wreaking havoc in the tin shop

IMGP0499

IMGP0500

IMGP0501

IMGP0502

IMGP0503

IMGP0504

IMGP0505

IMGP0506

55 cents a gallon!

55 cents a gallon!

IMGP0509

IMGP0510

IMGP0511

this building is obviously in modern use. :)

this building is obviously in modern use. 🙂

IMGP0513

incredible!

incredible!

IMGP0515

IMGP0516

IMGP0517

IMGP0518

this tunnel is just about tall enough for me to crouch in!

this tunnel is just about tall enough for me to crouch in!

coming apart at the seams

coming apart at the seams

IMGP0522

exterior of the steno office

exterior of the steno office

IMGP0524

IMGP0525

staff housing (doesn't look much better from the exterior than any of the other buildings!)

staff housing (doesn’t look much better from the exterior than any of the other buildings!)

IMGP0527

this shed holds 'props'

this shed holds ‘props’

the engineer's house

the engineer’s house

IMGP0530

this house surprised me with the number and size of rooms it contains, as well as the ample storage

this house surprised me with the number and size of rooms it contains, as well as the ample storage

IMGP0532

toilet room off a massive bathroom

toilet room off a massive bathroom

IMGP0534

IMGP0535

news article about Neil Armstrong!

news article about Neil Armstrong!

IMGP0537

1962 calendar (I suspect it was planted here; seems in too good shape)

1962 calendar (I suspect it was planted here; seems in too good shape)

information about Bear Creek

information about Bear Creek

blank forms

blank forms

IMGP0541

IMGP0542

wheelbarrow dug out of the permafrost

wheelbarrow dug out of the permafrost

IMGP0544

IMGP0545

the staircase inside the welcome building is in surprisingly good shape

the staircase inside the welcome building is in surprisingly good shape

IMGP0547

IMGP0548

the interior of the engineering building is in excellent condition

the interior of the engineering building is in excellent condition

IMGP0550

adding machine

adding machine

IMGP0552

IMGP0554

IMGP0462

IMGP0478

I feel privileged to have had the opportunity to tour the Bear Creek compound. What a way to conclude my stay in the Klondike!

Summer With An Aircard

The internet is down again in the Yukon, and will be down for an indeterminate period of time. Obviously, you don’t see me whining about it, and I am trying really hard to feel sympathy for the poor souls dependent on Northwestel. 🙂

I discovered yesterday that there is a port on my aircard for an amplifier, which means that I could have possibly had even better service this summer! As it is, I can’t complain. Yes, my connection is slow and occasionally drops, but I’ve been without service a matter of hours only this summer and the only things I haven’t been able to do easily are stream video and download large files. I will look into getting a booster when I head south since they can apparently increase my coverage.

After a couple of months on the 2GB plan, I decided to just go all out and pay for the 5GB even though I’ve only ever used at most 2.5GB. I’m sure that if I had more speed that let me download more, I’d be able to max out the 5GB, but for now it’s nice to be able to just surf and not have to worry about my usage. The difference between the 2 and 5GB plan is a fraction of the cost of going over by 500mb every month, so paying for the extra GB is worth my while. I intend to continue my service in the upcoming months, never wanting to be reliant on park wi-fi ever again!

Dawson Countdown

I had The Talk with management this week about next summer and thankfully we are exactly on the same page. It was understood from the get go that I would probably not be coming back to Dawson next year, but if I did I would have a job of some sort.

Not coming back to Dawson?

I have absolutely no reason to. I’ve explored the area around here extensively. What I have left to explore would be best done from the more central location of Whitehorse. I’d like to see more of Alaska, drive the Campbell Highway, and tour the Silver Trail, for starters! Much as I dislike Whitehorse, there is no room in this life for sentimental attachments to locations. And in cold hard numbers, not coming back to Dawson means $500 in gas money in my pocket, money that I could apply to taking Miranda with me on some trips next year.

So, I’m leaving Dawson in a week! I cannot believe I’m down to exactly seven days left. It’s boggling, but I’m not in race mode. I’d like to go back to the Drunken Goat if I can, and, of course, Gerties, but otherwise I don’t feel like I’ll be leaving anything undone. My focus is on getting Miranda travel ready.

I will always have a home in Dawson and it is a place I look forward to coming back to several years from now, perhaps with my nephews and niece in tow. I leave with doors wide open and bridges intact, with fond memories of sweet ice cream and panoramic views, and without being thoroughly fed up with the limitations of services at the end of the world. It’s a great way to go. 🙂

The big question now is how am I going to manage my mail from next month onwards. I have a few phone calls to make to Whitehorse and I may end up having my mail held for months in some sort of limbo. I really saw these past two summers that I don’t get much mail worth paying attention to, so that may end up being the cheapest and easiest solution.

Pecuniary Shyness, or This is Real Life!

Some RVers like to talk at great length about their finances, to the point of splashing out for all to see their balance sheets. I made a decision early on to gloss over this topic because I realised early on that full-time RVing is real life. Let me repeat that: full-time RVing is a lifestyle choice, not a perpetual vacation. Everyone’s reality and circumstances are different. I don’t see any value in going into any sort of detail about my financial portrait.

This issue has come up several times over the past few days. I’ve had someone comment that I ‘owed’ it to other RVers to explain how I get by day to day financially so that they could emulate me (!). Another person was appalled that I ‘steal’ from the thrift and free stores since I’m obviously well off, with a ‘nice motorhome and recent model car.’  Another doesn’t get the difference between being ‘tight’ (choosing not to do or buy certain things in order to do or buy other things) and being ‘broke’ (not being able to do or buy anything). If I lived a mainstream life, no one would expect me to pull out my balance sheet, they would understand how someone my age living in her own home and driving a recent model car might need to be frugal in other areas of her life, and they’d understand that not being able to do it ‘all’ is normal!

So far, the financials of my RVing life have been very cyclical. I have had periods with good cashflow and periods with bad cashflow. During the good periods I get caught up and during bad periods I try not to get behind. The goal is, of course, to balance out these periods and provide a steadier cashflow instead of one with gigantic negative and positive peaks. This summer was my first taste of this ideal cashflow vision and it has been lovely, but I am now heading back into squirrel mode, especially since I have a couple of big expenses coming up.

One thing to keep in mind is that I’m single with only cats as my dependents. That gives me a lot of freedom in how I choose to allocate my money. Once the bills are paid and I’ve put money away for retirement and emergencies, there is no one to care if I decide to buy a new toy and eat beans for a month. But if I were to put all of this on a balance sheet for the world to say, I’d have to erase a lot of comments from people with different priorities and values who think they have a right to tell me how I should be managing things. I might as well save them the trouble. 😀