Sam ‘N’ Andy’s Restaurant, Whitehorse

Tuesday night in Whitehorse, I had dinnerΒ  at Sam ‘N’ Andy’s, a Tex-Mex restaurant. The food and service were ho-hum, but much, much better than at the ‘authentic’ Sanchez Cantina.

My chicken enchilada was flavourful, but the sides of rice with vegetables and a boring garden salad were uninspired, which was a shame. Why bother with a good main course and neglect the sides?

The server was brusque, but attentive. I didn’t have to wait long for service even though the place was busy, and my drink and food came promptly.

If I’m ever desperate for Mexican or Tex-Mex in Whitehorse, I’d definitely go back to Sam ‘N’ Andy’s… if only for their giant delicious two-ounce mojitos!

Mammoths, Atlatls, and Plane Crashes

I touched a real honest to goodness fossilized mammoth bone on Tuesday. It was about 25,000 years old. And that was after seeing a mostly real honest to goodness, fully reconstructed, mammoth skeleton. I know I’m getting ahead of myself, but have you ever seen a mammoth skeleton???

So, ahem, one of the biggest and most visible attractions in Whitehorse, because it’s right off the Alaska Highway, is the Yukon Beringia Interpretive Centre. I had no idea what Beringia is/was and thought the place was a tourist trap, so I never really thought about visiting it. But after so much time in the Yukon I’d begun to hear things about the place and it started to work at me. So, after I got in from my Kluane Country jaunt, I decided to go find out just what was this thing called Beringia.

Beringia is a lost continent, a landmass that joined Siberia and present-day Alaska during the last ice age. It was a fertile grassland known as the ‘Mammoth Steppe’ in which giant animals roamed the land.

Stories of those days have been passed down through the ages to the present native peoples of the Yukon. One archaeologist studied those legends to see if there was any realistic basis to them and was lead to the confluence of the Old Crow and Porcupine rivers where there had been a legend of a giant monster slain on those banks. That legend is now a true story, as the skeleton of the ‘giant monster’ was found thanks to this orally passed down story–it was a woolly mammoth! Talk about myth coming to life!

After watching a fifteen minute movie about Beringia we were invited to step outside to try our hand using an atlatl, commonly known as a spear thrower. I’m quite good with a bow and arrow, so I was eager to try this other ancient weapon. I did three throws and the teacher informed me that I was one of the best he’d ever seen! While the others aimed to throw their spears as far as they could, with their first throw failing miserably, I focused on my technique and struck the same target three times, each time with more force. If I’d been hunting for the first time, I would have probably made a kill with at least one of those throws. It’s no wonder I didn’t last as a vegetarian–I’m a natural born hunter! πŸ˜€

My tour of Beringia filled me with such awe and wonder. Until yesterday afternoon, the Yukon was the Klondike. Anytime that happened before was of no interest. It was like discovering that an old friend has been hiding a wonderful secret from me.

The centre isn’t very big; there are a couple of exhibits outside and in, but it’s an excellent way to spend an hour or two. You can get a combo pass for the Transportation Museum next door for $9. That’s right, $9 can get you at least two hours of entertainment in excellent museums in Whitehorse. That’s less than the cost of a movie ticket!

The transportation museum was very good; with interesting displays. My favourites were those devoted to the Chilkoot Trail and to the Helen Klaben plane crash. She and a pilot crashed in the frigid Yukon wilderness in the 1960s and though badly wounded, lived to tell the tale. She wrote a book about the ordeal called Hey, I’m Alive, which was made into a movie.

between the Alaska Highway and the parking lot, a family of mammoths plays (dad shown)

between the Alaska Highway and the parking lot, a family of mammoths plays (dad shown)

this giant beaver apparently existed once upon a time. He was as tall as I am--5'6"!

this giant beaver apparently existed once upon a time. He was as tall as I am–5’6″!

The Yukon Beringia Interpretive Centre

The Yukon Beringia Interpretive Centre

a mammoth skeleton

a mammoth skeleton

a giant sloth!

a giant sloth!

CIMG0022

this statue represents the journey from life to death

this statue represents the journey from life to death

(about the statue)

(about the statue)

explanation of why glaciers are blue

explanation of why glaciers are blue

explanation of 'Beringia'

explanation of ‘Beringia’

the displays at both Beringia and the Transporation Museum were excellent and very detailed

the displays at both Beringia and the Transporation Museum were excellent and very detailed

as I said, very detailed!

as I said, very detailed!

I had no idea that horses were RE-introduced to North America!

I had no idea that horses were RE-introduced to North America!

CIMG0030

CIMG0031

the Yukon Horse

the Yukon Horse

CIMG0033

Legends of Beringia

Legends of Beringia

close up of the statue

close up of the statue

touching a real mammoth fossil!

touching a real mammoth fossil!

"please touch" is one of my favourite phrases

“please touch” is one of my favourite phrases

these are darts or spears

these are darts or spears

an atlatl

an atlatl

the dart rests against this rock and then you hold the two almost like chop sticks

the dart rests against this rock and then you hold the two almost like chop sticks

plaque about the plane flying outside the Transporation Museum

plaque about the plane flying outside the Transporation Museum

explanation of the pivoting mount...

explanation of the pivoting mount…

this plane always points into the wind

this plane always points into the wind

mural showing the different themes of the Yukon--native history, gold minining, the building of the Alaska Highway

mural showing the different themes of the Yukon–native history, gold minining, the building of the Alaska Highway

CIMG0045

kind of fuzzy, but this plaque says that it was on the site of the present day transportation museum that the US Army gave the Alaska Highway to Canada

kind of fuzzy, but this plaque says that it was on the site of the present day transportation museum that the US Army gave the Alaska Highway to Canada

what an incredible mural of the Golden Staircase!

what an incredible mural of the Golden Staircase!

the first public buses to travel the Alaska Highway started around 1948 and looked like this

the first public buses to travel the Alaska Highway started around 1948 and looked like this

the bus operators tried to make the miserable trip seem dreamy

the bus operators tried to make the miserable trip seem dreamy

inside of an old ambulance

inside of an old ambulance

I only noticed the old ambulance because it's orange :)

I only noticed the old ambulance because it’s orange πŸ™‚

LIFE magazine article about the Klaben/Flores plane crash

LIFE magazine article about the Klaben/Flores plane crash

article about the plane crash

article about the plane crash

article about the plane crash

article about the plane crash

article about the plane crash

article about the plane crash

Kluane Country

Kluane National Park is one of those regions that, like Kananaskis Country in Alberta, has inflamed my imagination for years. While I would love to explore the region in depth and camp there, just a brief day trip into those fabled peaks was enough to satisfy the itch.

After the car repairs, I headed west on the Alaska Highway and, for the first time, pushed past the turnoff to the North Klondike Highway. The landscape became arid, with soft round peaks rippling through, grey and weathered, reminding me of elephant skin. The road imitated the mountains, with one frost heave after another threatening my suspension. I would not have enjoyed this ride with Miranda!

And then, just like that, they were before me, the Kluane Ice Ranges, just as I had always envisioned them. Pointy, slate grey, and snow covered. Beautiful.

I only went as far as Haines Junction, heart of Kluane Country, and turned back. And it was enough for this current incarnation of my traveling life. I would love to come back that way again, in another version of this life where I have more time to explore the territory, but it was enough.

pushing west on the Alaska highway

pushing west on the Alaska highway

CIMG0002

Takhini Valley

Takhini Valley

CIMG0004

Takhini Valley

Takhini Valley

CIMG0006

CIMG0007

CIMG0008

CIMG0009

first glimpse of the Ice Ranges!

first glimpse of the Ice Ranges!

info about Kennedy and Hubbard peaks

info about Kennedy and Hubbard peaks

CIMG0012

You can clearly see the Hubbard peak in this photo, but the Kennedy peak is very faint. They are the white bit between the darker mountains.

You can clearly see the Hubbard peak in this photo, but the Kennedy peak is very faint. They are the white bit between the darker mountains.

CIMG0014

entering Haines Junction

entering Haines Junction

downtown Haines Junction set against the Ice Fields

downtown Haines Junction set against the Ice Fields

Haines Junction, by the way, is tiny, little more than a swell on the highway, and should not be confused with Haines, Alaska. Alaska Highway travelers headed for Fairbanks should note that they should turn right at Haines Junction for Fairbanks rather than going straight to Haines. I think that someone was trying to confuse the tourists. πŸ˜€

A Good Day In Whitehorse

Today was awesome. I will share the awesome parts tomorrow when I’ll be able to upload pics. πŸ™‚

Last night in the tent would have been okay if I didn’t have the noisy neighbours from hell. Every time I managed to doze off I’d be awaken by their loud voices, and, once, by their car alarm!

It was a surprisingly cold night, but I was dressed for it and have a good sleeping bag. It was time, however, to concede that I have passed the age for sleeping on the ground. πŸ™‚ Since I plan to camp during my Inuvik adventure, I bought a self-inflating mattress at CDN Tire this morning.

I needed to be at Kal Tire at 7:30, so I headed straight there, then went for breakfast. The work was done by 10:30 and seeing the new front tires helped me accept the mechanic’s assertion that there is no reason to change the rear ones at this time since they have just about as much tread left on them. I was told to have all tires balanced periodically and eventually move the new front ones to the rear. The alignment made a huge difference to how the car drives. I can’t believe I didn’t recognize that there was a problem!

And, so, the tedious item knocked off my to-do list, it was time to see some tall mountains, touch prehistory, discover that I’m a natural at using an ancient weapon, and gaze upon some relics of Yukon transportation history. And all by 5PM! The pictures will be worth waiting for the story. πŸ™‚

Whitehorse Supply Run

I left Dawson in pouring rain at 8 this morning. There was a lot of construction between Pelly Crossing and Whitehorse, which stretched the trip to a nearly interminable 6.5 hour journey.

My first item of business was to have the toad’s tires examined. Thankfully there’s a Kal Tire in Whitehorse! The news was acceptable; I need two new front tires and an alignment. They should be able to do the work first thing tomorrow, so I should still be able to do some touristy stuff.

I’m staying at Hi Country RV Park… In a tent! πŸ™‚ It’s pricey, $18 + tax, but I got a locals discount and showers are included. There is also wi-fi, which I’m accessing with my iPod Touch! The campground is nice, but I resent being sold a ‘tenting’ spot where the only place to set up the tent without being on rocks is on a slope. Our tent spots might be on gravel, but at least they are flat!

Tonight, I will do my non-perishable shopping, which includes things for my friends. I’d better get cracking!