Today Was an Expensive Bust

I was up early to get L&N’s friend to the airport and was on the road heading to Maz by about 8:15. I had planned to spend part of the day at village called El Quelite a little north of Maz, but made an irreversible and expensive mistake: I got on the cuota (toll road) instead of the libre (free road). It doesn’t matter that it took me ages to realise that I wouldn’t be able to access the town from the cuota, I still ended up having to practically go halfway to Culiacán before I could turn around. This meant I had to go through the toll booth in both directions, which cost 109 pesos EACH WAY!!! 🙁

The Pole Palace night club sounds like a very classy establishment.

The Pole Palace night club sounds like a very classy establishment.

Mexican open top double decker bus... Yes, those are people poking out of the top of it!

Mexican open top double decker bus… Yes, those are people poking out of the top of it!

When I was finally able to turn around, it was at an oasis along the barren road, a Pemex/OXXO combo, where I was very glad to have access to a bathroom (which had paper, water, and soap, but no toilet seat) and to be able to get a coffee (which tasted not great; I’ve been so spoiled by Rico’s!).

Turning around, I thought I could salvage the day by visiting some petroglyphs L&N had mentioned and the access road for which I had passed on the way north, but this being the first day of spring, there were massive crowds. I was almost 5KM down the dirt track to the location when a cop signaled for me to pull over. I did so and he spoke very quickly to me.

I said, ¿Mande? and he looked at a loss for words and managed to get out in English that he doesn’t speak English. I shook my head and said that if he spoke slowly and used simple words I would understand. He tried again and I repeated what I had understood: I had to go to the end of the road, go around the parking lot, come back up the track, and park at the head of a long queue of cars. The cop grinned and said exactly.

So that’s what I did and let’s just say I had no desire to park almost 6KM from the entrance and hike down to something I had no details about when it was obviously a special day and people were heading out for the whole of it, with parasols and coolers.

I made it back to the cuota and drove straight to the Soriana off Mex-15 that I went to in December. I actually wanted to check out Mega, but did not have the energy at this point to brave the traffic down Rafael Buelna.

Soriana didn’t have much or, rather, I’m not in the mood to cook, so I pretty much just stocked up on paper goods, crackers, sliced ham, and kielbasa. Something told me to check my email before going into the store and I had a tiny order from Contessa, that I was able to fill. I am always glad to do that for people! When I would do my supply runs to  Whitehorse, I would often have full huge lists of shopping for people, hundreds of dollars’ worth… and I would have the favour returned when others did their supply runs.

I dropped Contessa’s things off and got in around 2:30. I had a beer while I read a bit, then I decided I was hungry and moved my reading to the El Velero restaurant where I made the mistake of filling up on chips (damn their awesome pico de gallo!) and limonda, not leaving me much room for my chicken tacos. So I brought most of the tacos home and will have a nice breakfast tomorrow.

Not counting any expenditures from Soriana onward, my day cost me about 500 pesos in tolls and fuel with absolutely nothing to show for it. Very disappointing. If I wasn’t driving such a gas guzzler, I would have enjoyed the drive, something I haven’t done much this winter, but all I could focus on was the gas gauge needle dipping lower and lower and lower. If El  Quelite had had anything really remarkable to see, I might have made a point to find my way to the libre and gone there after all, but there was really nothing that spectacular to see to justify the extra mileage.

I wish I had a navigator.  You can’t drive and navigate here, it’s too dangerous. A navigator would have been looking at the map for me and telling me to stay in the left lane while I worked at avoiding getting into an accident.

To be honest, I wish I had done what I wanted to do today: come home from the airport and go back to bed with a book. 🙁

15 thoughts on “Today Was an Expensive Bust

  1. Well, I did get adventure! Frankly, the best part of the day was getting into unfamiliar situations that I could compare to my trip down here and realise that a) I’m MUCH more comfortable at traveling in unknown Mexico than I was on the way down and b) dang, my language skills really have improved!

  2. Some days you are the windshield and some days you are the bug. It will all be better tomorrow! You COULD be driving my 15 mpg pickup.

    You have a right to be proud of your improved Spanish. That’s cool!

    • Don, I love that expression and may quote you on it!

      I’m pretty sure that my truck doesn’t even get 15MPG! 🙁

  3. Were you planning to drive to Durango earlier? Another option is to take a bus to another city. The first class buses are non-stop, take the cuota, have large, very comfortable seats, and are very cheap. You could take a short taxi ride to downtown where everything would be walkable and many accommodation options near or on the main plaza.

    I see you’re within a day’s bus trip (6 – 7 hours) of Zacatecas. Zacatecas is a wonderful little city with many car-free streets, many museums and historical buildings, a teleférico and a tour through the old silver mines. I’d hate for you to leave Mexico without experiencing one of the plateau cities.

    Andrew

    • Andrew, do you mean drive to Durango later? Not this year; I’m too close to departure. The whole point of the Durango trip was to drive the Devil’s Backbone. I’ll try again next year. Next year, I would also like to take the bus to Guadalajara.

      I will add Zacatecas to my Mexico bucket list! Remember, this is just my first foray into MX and I plan to eventually live here for a few years with a visa!

  4. Andrew is right, Zacatecas must go on your “someday” list. When we were there we just missed a free Bob Dylan concert and a free Donna Summers concert.

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