El Museo de Almería

I got a niggle last night that told me not to go to bed. The reason for that niggle manifested itself just past midnight, when a chance to take a largeish order for the weekend came in, a chance I would have lost by morning. Good thing I’ve learned to listen to my niggles!

But after a few days at the computer, I was in the mindset to go to town. I worked steadily through the morning to get a sense for how long the job would take and left around 1:20 confident I wouldn’t have an insane day tomorrow. The bus schedule said that buses leave my neighbourhood at –:05 and –:35 on Saturdays and mine is the first stop. So silly me thinking there would be a bus at 1:35! One finally came around 1:55. Ridership was low, so we got to town in record time. I stayed on a couple of extra stops to get closer to the museum.

I wanted a quick lunch, something fast foody that wasn’t a pastry or a tapa, like pizza by the slice or a burger. There is a real dearth of such things in Spain… I walked from the bus stop to the museum along a busy route and almost all restaurants were shut tight despite it being the Spanish lunch hour and there was none of the fast food-type places you see all over Mexico and the Balkans to get you by outside of their regular later meal hours. The few places that were open had small bites for expensive prices. It says a lot that I was almost relieved to find a Burger King!

But, thankfully, I hung on and found a kebab place. I was so happy that I didn’t care that lunch cost me 6.50 euros! I was allowed to mix beef and chicken for the same price, which was a nice treat, and they let me have a bottle of water instead of pop without making me pay the surcharge. Their garlic sauce was the best I’ve had since coming to Europe, and I’ve had quite a bit of doner since coming across the pond! I may have had some on my fries. I may also have had fries. 🙂

Lesson learned: I’m going to take “have lunch” off my Almería to-do list and eat at home before going out unless I’m really in the mood for doner (I would definitely go to this place again). And, again, I’ve been looking during what is the traditional Spanish lunch hour!

I really didn’t need dessert after, but there was an ice cream parlour right next door that was open! *gasps* I ordered a “mini” scoop of Oreo in a cup and the server asked if I wanted to try another flavour at no charge. I expected him to add put a dollop of the strawberry cheesecake, but, no, he gave me almost a full portion! I maintain that free ice cream has no calories… 😉

The museum was easy to find, its entrance not so much. Its exterior is really ugly and looks like a bunker! Notice that the sign says it’s the archaeology museum, but it’s also referred to as the Almería Museum, with the two being used interchangeably.

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Little did I know what would await me inside…

I’d done my research and knew that admission is 1.50 euros for non-residents. So I went up to the welcome desk to pay and the man there asked me where I’m from. I said Canada, but that I’m in the area six weeks. He replied, “I’m going to give you the Spanish-speaking tourist living here for a long time discount” and  told me I didn’t have to pay! LOL He explained the museum layout a bit and told me I could take pictures with flash on all but the third floor. What a nice guy!

So while I’m finding the opening hours in Almería to be frustrating, everyone is so nice and makes me feel so welcome. My host says this is not a touristy part of Spain, but it’s a great off the beaten path destination with plenty to do. Almería centro is compact and walkable, the bus system is decent, and the tourist attractions I’ve been to so far have plenty of English. In fact, there is a lot more English signage than I expected based on what my host told me. However, you will be hard pressed to find someone who speaks English so I can understand why getting a housesitter with Spanish skills was important to my host. It’s not always easy to understand people who speak at a much faster cadence than do Mexicans and with an accent I’m not familiar with, but I’m getting by very well and am not feeling particularly challenged by a language barrier. After my four months in the Balkans, I feel like I’m out of survival mode. Aaaah.

The ground floor of the museum has this impressive timeline that goes right to the top of the museum. It lays out key steps in the history of the area from prehistory to today.

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I was about to translate the start of it and just noticed the English! 🙂

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That thing is really tall! The museum has four floors total, but they are numbered like in the UK, where you get ground, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd.

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The sides of the column represent a village site. You have to image it lying horizontally.

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I was lucky to be able to see the subaquatic archeology in Almería temporary exhibit that is just about to finish up.

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Here’s a map of this part of Spain. Almería is the capital of the province of the same name. The way Spain is cut up is a bit confusing, but it has a bunch of nations within its borders. Imagine Canada with ten Quebecs. And then, those nations are divided into provinces, the way Quebec is divided into administrative regions, each with a main administrative centre.

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There was a very thick catalogue with all the artifacts.

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The exhibit was very nautical and there was the sound of waves crashing in the background. Very hypnotic!

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I didn’t know what a “moledera” is and Google Translate did not have the answer. I went to a Spanish dictionary and found a definition — it is a grindstone! I submitted that to Google Translate. Wouldn’t it be cool if it’s accepted?

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The Pirate Coast speaks to dangerous times on the high seas!

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Fishing was one of the first industries in the area, especially that of tuna, which is very popular.

Goods were shipped in giant urns that were sometimes repurposed as caskets for children, among other uses.

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I loved the barnacles on some of the objects, speaking to a long time spent at the bottom of the sea.

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This is a lead lingot. Oh, a lingot is an ingot in English. I don’t want to admit how long I’ve been getting that wrong!

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This one has a stamp.

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There was an interesting series of cases showing contemporary Islamic, Roman, and Greek pottery.

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The Islamic, with its bright colours and patterns, was my favourite.

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The Roman was rather boring.

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The Greek is more subdued than the Islamic, but much more interesting than the Roman.

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Next came a few relics from ancient Egypt, including an ostrich egg!

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I then headed upstairs to learn about the Los Millares civilisation.

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But first, I took a look the centre column at that height and realised that it was designed to be examined on each of the levels of the museum. Since each floor is a split level, that’s seven levels. What clever design!

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Reproductions of cave art.

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And artistic representation of what the civilisation might have looked like.

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There were a lot of touch screens all through the museum. Here, I’m scrolling through to get more information on different parts of the diorama.

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This is a description of the diorama. “Inhabitants, visitors, folks, folks that bring, folks that take…” (emphasis mine)

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I was rather impressed by this huge stone wall in the middle of the first floor.

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And that these “primitive” people did what amounts to brain surgery!

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They made arrowheads and there is evidence of warfare on the site.

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This exhibit of funerary practices was creepy as hell. Just after I took this picture, dark shadows came into that green spot of light and I jumped!

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Add in really “Halloweeny” music and the fact that the room was very dark and this was a very disquieting experience.

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This was a rather disquieting piece of art as well.

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Up I went to the second floor to learn about the Argar society, contemporary to the Egypt’s Middle Kingdom.

Again, an impressive artist’s rendering of the society.

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The water reminded me of fruit suspended in gelatine.

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There was an almost maze-like series of exhibits on dietary and funerary practices. The text on the wall sums up the exhibit (hunger, death, fear, metal…).

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The diet was mostly barely, which I learned is a low quality food.

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Half of the population died before the age of six and only a quarter reached adulthood.

There is evidence that food was stockpiled and then distributed.

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There was a random room about Python programming.

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“This is not an exhibit. It is a laboratory. An experiment in progress. A process of dialogue. A toolbox. A message in a bottle. A patch of garden to sow ideas and reap questions….”

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The final floor.

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We finished with the Roman and Islamic societies. The latter is where Almería got its name, from Al-Mariyya (“the Watchtower”).

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I really love mosaic.

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The city of Almería as it is known today appeared in the Middle Ages from a city that was built in the 9th century. It reached its pinnacle in 1147, when it was suddenly conquered and destroyed by the Christian coalition.

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Oil lamps.

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Toys.

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This plaque dates back to the 10th century and is the only thing left marking the official construction of the city.

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Epigraphs from the old mosque of Almería.

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Notice the graffiti.

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A catapult projectile from 1147. Great display for it! Most of the city’s residents were killed or fled.

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Pottery found underwater in the Almería Bay.

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The inside of the museum is a work of art. It’s not beautiful per se, but the way light flows through it and how they use voids and openings to bring things together was inspired, as was how they used all the various levels to present truly massive exhibits.

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They have a series of lockers for stowing personal belongings.

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They cost 1 euro.

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Outside of the museum.

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The entrance. The official address is on Carretera Ronda, but the entrance is on Calle Hermanos Pizón, on the complete opposite side of the block. I walked all the way around before I found it.

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It was past 4:00 by this point, nothing was open, the temps had gone from scorching (30) to BRRR and windy, and I had to get back to work. So I headed to my bus stop. I was happy to pass some Cyrillic on the way. 🙂

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I walked down this lovely pedestrian mall to get to the bus stop.

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It’s a good thing my host had told me where to catch the bus or I would never have found it! The bus route is a bit odd as it does circles in some parts and if I’d tried to catch it where I got off, I would have ended up having to ride the whole route in order to get home. Where my host told me to get on would be the fastest way back even if it meant more walking. I was impressed that this stop had a sign telling us which buses were coming and how soon and not impressed that my bus that was supposed to come every 30 minutes would be arriving in 36!

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But… as I was trying to decide if I was going to walk around the block to see what was what or just hang out and read a book on my phone, my bus pulled up! What great timing!

Off we went. Here’s some proof that it was just a little windy.

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We got to the university and the driver took a break. It was a little strange since I was the only one left on the bus by this point and he kept looking towards me in the mirror. Just as I was going to ask him if I’d misunderstood the schedule and this was the last stop, we took off again. I got off as soon as we turned into my neighbourhood, even though I was pretty sure there another stop closer, and I’m certain I got home faster than if I’d stayed on till the closer stop.

I got in and fed a very put upon cat (who had been fed before I left…), then got back to work for a few hours before having dinner. I was happy I’d made a big veggie stir fry yesterday since I was hungry but too tired to cook and wouldn’t have had a healthy meal otherwise. I love having access to a full size fridge and freeze again so I can make big quantities of stuff!

I should have a reasonable work day tomorrow and Monday and then I’ve got some code cleanup work on the plate for the rest of the week if no other transcription comes in. I wasn’t even gone four hours today (!) and so I’m going to start looking for other short excursions I can do between bouts of work. Time is going by sooooo fast and I know there’s lots more to see so I need to make a plan to get it all done!

Lost in the Temporal Flux

It’s been a steady week of work. I’m feeling a little lost in the temporal flux here since I’m on my own and don’t have to answer to anyone, so I’m sleeping and eating at odd hours (that Spaniards would consider normal…). The room here is great for sleeping and I’ve been putting in a solid seven to nine hours every night this week, which means I’m really productive. I’m cooking from scratch, working, and enjoying walks around the neighbourhood. The cat and I are getting along great and I feel blessed that she’s a cuddler.

Earlier this week, I replied to an ad for someone to do the “really boring and tedious” job of cleaning up HTML coding. This is something I love doing, so I replied with a rock bottom hourly rate in the hope of getting it despite not having any “professional” coding experience. The client had me do an hour of work as a test and when he went over the test, he asked me to continue with the project… at 1.5 times the rate we’d agreed upon!

He estimated the job would take 8 hours total and I got it done in 3.25, thanks to fast Spanish Internet and my ease at cutting, pasting, going between multiple tabs, using a WYSIWYG editor, and knowing enough HTML to quickly troubleshoot formatting errors. It also helped that this is work I truly enjoy and can get lost in, so I was hyper focused and concentrated.

The client was happy with my work and asked me what else I do! So he might send me more work of this type, data entry, and even proofreading. I would be delighted if this one-off job turned into something more steady to give me some non-transcription income.

Tonight, I decided to go out for a tapa and beer. The food came super fast and I wasn’t ready to go home, so I ordered a second beer. These are “cañas,” very small beers (about 200mL) served in a wine-type glass, so I still had barely more than a bottle of Bud back home and less than a Balkan beer. Two beers, a chorizo sandwich, and a few French fries came to 4.50CAD. I can’t believe there’s a place here I can go to that’s that cheap!

So far, I have no work for the weekend, so I might go to Almería tomorrow. I will have to watch the bus schedule since there aren’t as many, but the archeological museum (which costs all of 1.50 euros for non-residents) is open all day till quite late, so that gives me a lot of flexibility. There is no point going anywhere on Sundays, so I’ll need to find a way to keep myself occupied here if no work comes in. I’m sure a bunch of movies and cat cuddling will be involved. 🙂

Into Almería (Or Your Intrepid Blogger Hikes Up to Another Fortress)

I finally managed to get away to Almeria today! I’ll pay for it tomorrow, but it was long overdue. I have to remind myself that I had the “trou d’cul en d’sous du bras” all of last week. Google Translate can translate that phrase literally for you if you’re curious (hee hee), but it basically means I was lethargic.

During the week, there are buses to Almería every 16 minutes from a stop a block from where I’m staying. I headed there around 11:55 and a bus came at about 12:05. The cost is only 1.05 euros one way and the trip takes about 15 minutes. So the only reason I might not be going often is too much work, not the cost or the length of the trip!

It was a proper city bus with not enough seating, but since I was one of the first on, I got to sit the whole way to downtown.

My host took the time to show me not only where to get off, but also where to get up and ring the bell for my stop. So I had no trouble getting orientated at the other end. My plan was to get a map at the tourist info centre (my host provided one in her “welcome kit,” but I wanted something I could scribble on and scrunch up), find a Deutsche Bank to make a withdrawal, and then check out the castle.

The Deutsche Bank ended up being on my route to the info centre and very near the bus stop. So convenient! The budget has reset since it’s a new month and I took out my allowance for this month, a little less generous than normal since I planned to do a big shop with  my credit card. So now, I can stop freaking out that things are 1.5 times what the price tag is and just enjoy myself since as long as I don’t spend more than I have, I’m right on budget.

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I haven’t had an ice cream since the Balkans besides the one on a stick in Alicante, and was really in the mood for one today. Just past the bank, I saw a giant ice cream cone sign that led me to this ice cream parlour. Gelato was 1.90 euros for a small scoop. In Mexico, I would have use the word “sencilla” (single) to indicate I wanted one scoop. Here, you have to literally say, “one small scoop” (una pequeña bola). I went with Ferrero Rocher. Yum!

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I wandered a bit trying to find the tourist info centre, which is at city hall (ayuntamiento, just like in Mexico).

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I was greeted there by a young man who was very enthusiastic about his job. By that, I mean that I had a hard time understanding all the wonderful information he had to share, but I didn’t have the heart to tell him to slow down. He circled things on my map that were numbered, so I can refer back to the legend for anything I missed. I did understand his directions to the fortress, the a few different museums, the port, and more, so it’s not like I wasted his time at all. I didn’t realise there would be so much to see here!

Off I headed to the fortress, Alcazaba.

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I had to go through old town Almería, which reminded me a lot of Mexico, but with much narrower streets!

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What a brave soul to be driving an RV in this part of town, and not a small one either!

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Sleep to rest, sleep to dream. But what I liked were the shadow children on the wall.

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I finally found the entrance to the fortress!

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Up I went, enjoying the increasingly panoramic view of the city. This was a much, much, much, much shorter climb than that in Kotor and Alicante!

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I made a new friend! She came right over for a cuddle.

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The pine tree seems rather lost!

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There’s a whole other section to the fortress, but I don’t think you can go there.

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This water feature reminded me of London.

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Translating and summarizing from an informational placard, Alcazaba is located on a hill that dominates the whole city and  bay. Its location is clearly strategic. Since its origin, it has been the seat and residency of those in power. Inside, buildings built over the course of six centuries are found layered. The history of the fortress is intimately tied to the city of Almería, which during Islamic times was one of the Mediterranean’s most important ports.

The site is interesting in that a lot of it has been reconstructed and is very neat, but there are still plenty of ruins to poke around in.

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This garden was really lovely!

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I thought that I’d reached the limits, but then I found a way, to the left, off picture, to get to that tower in the back. The site felt immense!

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They rebuilt two Arab homes in the traditional style to give us an idea of what they would have been like.

I really like the Arabic style with its inner courtyard, a style that I’ve seen in Mexico and which heavily influenced the construction of the house I’m in now. I really hate the Western style of house where you open the front door and, voilà, there’s your whole life on show. I much prefer the Arabic style that has a transition from public to private space. The house I’m in now is actually exactly what I’m hoping to find in Mérida and so the bar is going to be set very high!

So this is the patio/inner courtyard:

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Toys in those times are not unlike “Western” toys. They were miniaturized versions  of tools the children would use when they grew up.

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This would have been the hammam (baths):

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I initially thought these were cat paw marks in the flagstones!

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The ceiling!

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Now, I’m heading up to the south tower.

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It was past two by this point and I still had my shopping to do and work as well, so it was time to go. I was able to take a different route back to the entrance and found some lovely tile and stonework.

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I wonder if anyone ever gathers dates from these trees.

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If it wasn’t for the street being so narrow, I could have been in Mexico here.

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I had about a 2KM walk to the Carrefour grocery store. Google Maps did a mediocre job of getting me there, but I passed some interesting things along the way. I noted that all the businesses except for a few restaurants were closed for siesta. It is going to be very tricky to time future trips into Almería. I think between 10AM and 2PM will be my best bet.

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Wow, talk about flashbacks to walking the Mall in Washington D.C.!

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I eventually made it to Carrefour, a major European hypermarket (one-stop shopping like Super Walmart, but with higher end and pricier goods). I knew that Carrefour wouldn’t have the best prices, but it would have the best variety. I had a budget of about 100 euros, 150CAD, and wanted to buy enough to get me through the month, minus a few perishables and meals out. I doubted that was realistic (150CAD does not go far at all in Canada), but I’d see how it went.

I went through the entire store very slowly, enjoying being able to read the labels and ingredients, and added up my purchases as I went along to keep myself on track. It quickly became evident that my budget was actually… generous. I was shocked! I got everything on my list and was even able to add luxury items, like frozen pizzas and a jar of Patak’s tikka masala sauce (I cannot believe they had that!!!)! I took advantage of a lot of three for two sales (hence the pizzas… and the vanilla pudding) and came out of there for just 88CAD!

Part of me thought, hey, you’re taking a taxi home, so go back and get more stuff. But another part of me thought that I’m only here another six weeks. So I’ll see how long this lasts me and do another shop at the end of the month if I need to.

Checkout took ages because their computer system crashed as the gal went to hit the total button! I thought she was going to have to rescan everything, but, thankfully, no.

Before going into the store, I’d made sure there was a taxi stand out front, which there was, so I had no trouble getting one. I’d gone to the company’s website and calculated the cost of the ride would be just under 10 euros, well worth it to get my frozen stuff home quickly! The driver and I had a bit of a laugh as we came into my neighbourhood because I didn’t know the one ways, only how to get around on foot. But, thankfully, I got us here with no detours. The cost was exactly what the website had estimated!

The cat was waiting for me by the door and let me know just how mad at me she was for missing her 1PM treat and being late for her 4PM treat. So getting her those treats was my first priority before putting everything away!

Next, I made an early dinner since I hadn’t had lunch because I’d had eaten a large brunch of veggie stir fry before heading out. I went for rice and curried chicken (Patak’s). YUM! I haven’t had curry since Plovdiv so the flavours were very welcome. I could tell that the sauce, made in England, would be different from the sauce I get in Canada, spicier and less creamy, but it was still very yummy and satisfying.

I’m so glad I finally broke the ice on going to Almería. At less than 3CAD round trip, I hope to make it in at least once a week, if not twice, depending on my work schedule, and take my time exploring and getting to know downtown. It seems like a very lovely and liveable city. My setup here feels a lot like where I lived in Mazatlán, being in a pretty much full service small beachfront community, but with a large vibrant city a very short distance away. I’m rather sad I’ll only get six weeks, not months, here!

All Saints Day

Doing some Googling today to plan my itinerary, I discovered that November 1st is a national holiday in Spain! Therefore, there are a ton of closures, the bus schedule is almost non-existent, and a taxi ride from the hypermarket to home would cost about 5CAD more than on a non-holiday. All that to say, it made no sense to head out today! 🙁

So I’m working through my queue and will go explore Almería tomorrow!

Found in Translation

It ended up being a longer day of work than expected. If I don’t get another housesit after this one, I am going to be bleeding money for the rest of the winter. So, really, this is what I need to focus on. The coffers have dipped below the “I’m starting to get uncomfortable” line so I’m pleased that I have as much work as I can handle right now and a nice amount of receivables outstanding.

I quit around seven and headed out around 8:30 to the tapas bar. It’s chilly here in the evenings and I could not find my hoodie! It suddenly occurred to me that I must have left it at the bar the last time I went. When was that? It was unbelievable that it was only two nights ago; Sunday was really long! I hoped that this was the case and that they had a lost and found.

It was much livelier today, with quite loud music playing, so I can’t fault the server for hearing that I wanted “bravas” rather than “bratwurst” and therefore received a plate of potatoes with tomato sauce. It’s not what I thought I was in the mood for, but it was really tasty and something I was very happy to have accidentally had a chance to sample! They were not the famous fried potatoes with mayonnaise, but rather boiled. I’m really not a fan of potatoes unless they are the waxy ones that are rather meaty in their consistency and a bit sweet, which these were. The tomato sauce was a bit spicy and the perfect complement. So I left happy and perfectly satisfied.

As for my hoodie, I decided to call it a “camisa” (shirt). After a bit of rummaging through drawers and asking if anyone had seen a pink shirt left on Saturday (he understood me!), the owner found it! I was so happy to see it. Can you imagine me in this scenario in Bulgaria hoping Google Translate was asking the right thing?! I would have probably broken out the crayons to draw a picture!

I came in to find an email from one of my clients saying there was work in the queue if I wanted it even though he knew it was very late my time. I logged on and found a bunch of small jobs that would pay very well for the time spent working. So I went back to work until a couple of larger jobs came in that I could save for tomorrow afternoon.

I’m slowly starting to settle into Spanish time, being more comfortable with starting my day much later, taking a long mid-afternoon break for lunch, and then finishing quite late and not being in bed before eleven or midnight… rather like how I used to be. There’s just no point fighting it and it makes it easier to wait till late to go to the bar for a light snack! I was rather bemused at 8:30 tonight that I was raring to go out rather than to bed!

I’m definitely going into Almería tomorrow to break the ice on the bus and get orientated a bit. I want to get to a big supermarket and do a large shop of meat and staples to get me through the next six weeks, since I have a full sized fridge-freezer here, and then just top up at the little shop here as needed. So that will mean taking a taxi back. Depending on how late I leave and whether more work comes in, I may pop into old town and do some tourism as well. 🙂