New and Old Lanark

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9:03 AM

I’m at Glasgow Central waiting on the 9:18 train to Lanark. I can’t believe how easily I got here ! Last month, searching for tickets and my departure stance would have been nerve wracking, but today it was as easy and normal as going to the bathroom! Hard to believe this is my last day in Scotland. I have to admit that if I see another continental breakfast in this lifetime, it’ll be too soon! I’m fed up with cold rolls, cheese, jam, tea, o.j., cereal, etc. I’d just about kill for my unhealthy Cheeze-Whiz on English muffin with a glass of chocolate milk!

However, it’s good that breakfast is healthy since practically everything is deep fried here. I’d just about kill for some steamed or lightly poached fish, steamed broccoli, and plain sticky white rice! At least last night I had a baked potato. I think I’ve had enough French fries for quite a few millennia (and it’s not like I’ve been eating them a lot, just once or twice a week. I must admit I like ‘The Pancake Place’’s herb fries, though). What I couldn’t believe was the time I ordered mac and cheese. It had a full inch of fat floating on top of the cheese and greasy French fries on the side! I went through a lot of napkins getting rid of the worst of the grease! I can’t believe last night, though, I actually (very politely) complained about my meal in a restaurant!

I met a girl last night who said something interesting. Going home is scarier than staying because you’ve changed while the people you know haven’t.

10:38

The train ride to Lanark was AWFUL! (mostly underground or ugly scenery and slow!!!) But worth it. Guess where I’m standing. I’ll give you a hint. The plaque says: ‘Here stood the house of William Wallace who in Lanark in 1297 first drew sword to free his native land.’!!! I’m also next to St. Nicholas’ church, site of the world’s oldest bell, outside of which is a statue of Wallace.

Next, I’m off to the ruins of St. Kentigern’s church where ‘Wallace married Marion’ (TIC lady). I like to think that he did marry her, since he was pious. Anyhoo, this is a beautiful little town ! I didn’t realise that so much of Wallace would remain!!! (And the TIC woman asked if I knew who he was!)

2:54

New Lanark is lovely!!! It’s undergone an extensive restoration scheme that should be finished by the end of the decade/century. Outside, the buildings are all stone, very simple, incredibly beautiful. Inside, they ‘house’ all the modern conveniences of life. I have to look up Robert Owen. I think I would have liked him. The conditions in his town were a zillion times better than in other towns during the same time period, 1820s.

The ‘Annie McLeod Experience’ was great—it was a ‘ride’ that narrated life during the 1820s complete with sound and light effects.

Now, I’m waiting for the 15:22 train. I’m pooped, what with going to bed too late and getting up way early. Tomorrow and the next few days will probably be killers. To be honest, I’m not looking forward to going in to work on Friday. I would have liked the weekend just to get my bearings back! I am looking forward to the pool, though, if they have it going!

I wonder what the weather’s like back home. Here, it’s usually too hot or too cold. It’s hard to get comfortable. I’m forever putting on and removing my sweater and/or coat! The rain hasn’t deterred me in the least and I’ve seen so little of it! I thought, a month ago (already!) that by today I’d be fed up with travelling. I just can’t believe how much I’m wishing that tomorrow I could get on a bus to Ayr, then to Aberdeen, then to… I’ve got ‘the bug’!

8:08 pm

Well… my trip’s essentially over… Tomorrow, it’s the U straight to Buchanan street, then a bus to the airport. A month ago, checking in at the airport was scary. Now, I think of it as a nuisance. It’s like I’m not scared of ‘stupid’ things anymore, well not scared, more like worried, I guess. That’s still not the right word. I guess I’ve just found ‘blick’. (In my Liberal Arts Integrated Essay Seminar class, we talked about discovering a new human emotion called ‘blick’. We had debates over whether or not blick could actually exist. I swear, I’ve found it!) Whatever the emotion, it’s almost gone now. When it comes back, I’ll just think back to this trip ! I could never have given myself a more wonderful present!

 

Exploring Glasgow and on to Edinburgh

About 8:25 AM.

J’ai fait le ‘tour de l’horloge’. That is, I slept from 7:30pm to 7:30 am (interrupted, of course, but only briefly). Why don’t I feel refreshed? Because my body says that it’s early morning! But, since I got up at ‘normal’ G.T., I’ll most likely go to bed at a normal time and wake up on time tomorrow!  Breakfast was great. I haven’t spent any money this morning and I have in me a full bowl of Alpen cereal, two glasses (warmish, but very tolerable) milk, one glass powdered O.J. (icky), and two sandwiches (1 whole wheat, the other yummy white) composed of cheese (processed, naturally…!) apricot marmalade ,and real butter. Now that’s an ideal breakfast for the type of day ahead! None of that American sweetroll ‘crap’. I’m all set to go to the city centre, now. It seems that the Necropolis doesn’t have an opening time. The cathedral (me going to church?!) opens at 9:30. It’s 8:28 (am) now, so by the time I get going it’ll be about 9:00. The walk to the city centre I’m told takes 30-45 minutes, so I should be arriving just as everything opens. I think that I might spend the morning in the city centre, then hike back to see the transport museum this afternoon. I’ll see.

My first ‘real’ morning in Scotland (ie. awaking in bed!) is bright and sunny, a few harmless clouds can be seen in the distance. It looks coldish, though. Anyway, later, I’m anxious to go and explore!

P.S. glad to see I got over the depression?!

10:35 am

I just finished touring the Glasgow Cathedral and its cemetery. This church was constructed during the Middle Ages and finished a few centuries later. I touched stone that was cut by a man who lived in the 12th century!  Contrary to North American equivalents, we could go everywhere and touch everything in this cathedral with one minor exception.  The cemetery is so old that most of the names have disappeared from the stone. The oldest I’ve seen is mid-eighteenth century. (The oldest gravestone I saw during my month long stay in Scotland was mid-fifteenth century! It is a St. Kentigern’s church in Lanark. There’s no date on the gravestone, but you can easily identify it by the skull with crossbones. It’s to the left of the entryway into the cemetery by way of the reconstructed arch in the ruins.) I like cemeteries. They are so peaceful, they don’t care how their inhabitants got there! That’s enough morbidity, I’m going to climb the Necropolis.

P.S. jaywalking appears to be the favourite Glaswegian pastime! Remember, look right then left! (It took me over a week to ‘learn’ how to cross streets in Scotland, and even after a month it still didn’t feel all that natural! I don’t even want to count the number of times people told me to ‘go back to Canada if you don’t know how to cross a street’!!!)

3:50 pm

I’m back at the hostel, waiting in the lobby for Haggis. It’s been an excellent day.

The Necropolis was beautiful despite the fact that several crypts and nooks and crannies were obviously the lodgings of derelicts. It’s a huge cemetery built on a hill. What I liked is that while they maintain the grounds (ex. grassmowing) they don’t repair the stones, allow things to crumble, etc. I almost tripped on a vase that had rolled down a steep hill and was lying flat on its back in the middle of the road! It was obvious that it had been lying there for a while.

Lunch was yet another yummy veggie burger with onions. They’re cheap and plentiful in Glasgow, to my surprise. (Actually, they are very common all over Scotland, even in the smaller towns and you’ll soon discover that it almost became a sport to try the local veggie burger! Although I occasionally found two that were similar, generally no two burgers were exactly alike in taste, texture, or condiment. They made for a cheap meal which varied more than one might imagine!)

After, I bought postcards and a Father’s Day card for Dad. I mailed a postcard to (my stepmother) for her birthday, as well the card for Dad. After, I rode the ‘Clockwork Orange’ (ie the Underground, subway, metro, metropolitana, etc.) back here. It’s clockwork, orange, convenient, and easy to use! as well as cozy and comfortable. (I soon came to realise that it’s a lot easier to use the U to get to the hostel, even if you have to walk maybe five minutes more than if you took the bus. Here are the directions from the Kelvinbridge (bridge, not hall) station. Once above ground, you turn right on the road. You follow its natural curve, and cross an intersection. Keep going straight, this road will merge into Woodland Road. Cross Woodland Road (careful, it’s dangerous!) Follow the youth hostel sign you’ll encounter almost immediately. Easy when someone tells you, but very difficult when you have to discover for yourself! I took the long way for all, but one of about six trips on the U!) Now, I’m going to ask the hostel if I can use their bathroom to freshen up.

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4:08 pm

‘No problem.’ It’s amazing what going to the bathroom, washing your hands, and refilling your canteen (I didn’t carry a water bottle on this trip, rather a 2L hiking canteen. With its strap, it was easier to carry, and its flat shape made it less cumbersome than a bottle.) can do to your spirits! I must that the tap water here is excellent, (that stopped in Inverness, where the water situation went bad. It just didn’t taste good in the Highlands; most likely this is do to the peat which makes the water brown. I also noticed in Pitlochry that the water was making me mildly sick, but not enough to stop my fun, so I put off buying expensive bottled water until the last possible moment. Inverness.) I’m refilling my canteen in bathrooms (the water in bathrooms runs very frequently, so it is usually fresher and better tasting.). Speaking of which, the public one near the Necropolis is unbelievable. It’s clean enough to eat off the toilet bowl , the sink and faucets are sparkling, there are (fake) flowers around the mirrors (there were some in the airport bathroom too, and someone said it was ‘unScottish’), drinking cups and soap are within easy reach, etc. The paper towels are blue and the toilet paper is pink, which makes the water go red!) It’s obvious that Glasgow takes pride in itself. I’m going to wait outside now. Later, perhaps in Edinburgh!

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7:00 pm Edinburgh (!)

Luck does follow me! Haggis was about 45 min (no, that’s not the lucky part, let me finish!) late. The road here was lovely, I saw sheep. Our Haggis driver was most cordial. Arriving here, the people from Haggis asked if I had lodging. No, I said. Well, they said, we’ll ring a couple of places for you. Less than 15 minutes, later I’m settled very comfortable in a B and B two whole minutes from Haggis where the proprietor, Yvonne, picked me up!  For £10, I’ve got breakfast, too! I’ll be staying here, most likely, when I return to Edinburgh. I’m going to take a shower, I stink!

Oh! and I’m sharing a room with a guy from… Laval!!! I’ve had a whole conversation in French today!

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10:16 p.m.

One of my ‘roomies’, a great guy from Edmonton named Michael, and I went out for dinner tonight. Unfortunately, my meal had a bit of hidden meat in it. Considering what I’ve eaten today, I figured a little extra protein wouldn’t hurt, even if it was gross! Besides that, the pasta and sauce was wonderful. One problem: how much to tip! I just realised I probably gave too much! Like 75p too much! Oh, well, the service was good, and I had a little extra. I will have to watch that, however.

Tomorrow, I’m either off to Perth or Pitlochry. Haggis doesn’t run on Sundays, so I’ll have to spend two nights wherever I do go. I’m told that there isn’t much in Perth, but I wanted to see Scone, Dundee, and Saint-Andrews, not to mention… The Cliff (at Kinghorn that King Alexander III rode his horse off of in 1286, pretty much launching the Wars of Independence)!!! I might just get off at Perth, make my own way around Fife, get to Pitlochry and go on from there.

… (long rambling about possible plan. I ended up pretty much missing Fife. It’ll be for next time!)