Scotland

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Hiking Around Aviemore

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2:27 pm

I’m writing this from the majestic shore of Loch an Eilan, a 13th century castle ruin just a stone’s throw away. Unfortunately, it’s not accessible. It was raining when I left Aviemore this morning, but now the sun is shining and the clouds are clearing. I can see the blue Highland sky. The hills around me are all awash with rain, and so brown. A few more days like this and they are bound to explode into fiery purpleness.

What a bonnie, wee castle it is! I’m so jealous of the birds that come and go from it as they please. It is overrun by trees and bushes; I have a view of the ‘front door’ into the courtyard, but it is blocked by foliage. The ground here is boggy, boot sucking, cranberry jelly slurping out of a can boggy. I’ll have to do more laundry tonight ! Well, it’s a long way back to Aviemore, so I’ll be going.

Oh, the Highlands are bonnie, bonnie indeed!

6:55

What a great day! I really felt up to par, not sickish at all. I had a refreshing 11-hour night (9-8 AM !) and then that delightful walk. Sure enough, Loch an Eilan means the island in the lake. Tomorrow, I’m on to Inverness. I’ve made an important decision. It’s obvious that I won’t see everything I want to see on this trip. So, I’ve decided to see only what I’d want to see if this was my only trip to Scotland, ever. The Orkneys (Skara Brae) and Skye aren’t on that list. I will spend 2 days in Skye, but the Wallacey and Brucey ‘stuff’ is more important. So? I’ll definitely get to Edinburgh for the 27th. Maybe earlier. After, I’ll see the W’y and B’y stuff I’ve missed. After I’ll see Aberdeen, St. Andrews, and Dundee. Then, the south. If, and only if, I’ve got a few days left (and cash) I’ll go back up to Orkney. This schedule saddens me a little, but it’s one I can definitely live with. I’ll regret missing Kildrummy more than Skara Brae, that’s for sure. Oh, and there’s Turnberry, too!

I can’t believe it’s already the 16th! I’m starting to feel the clock ticking. I’m getting to Inverness a little late tomorrow (around 3:00 pm), but Thursday I’ll try to get both CAWDOR CASTLE and CULLODEN in. Now this is what I came to Scotland for! I must admit I’m getting antsy for Stirling, Bannockburn, and even Falkirk. I might have missed the Stirling Battle anniversary, but I’m right on time (!) for the Falkirk one. Supposedly, there’s some ‘stuff’ going on to commemorate the battle. Personally, I’d rather forget it! No, that’s not true, and I find it extremely sad that Wallace was essentially disgraced after losing this battle. Hello? You win some, you lose some.

I’ll think I’ll ‘go out’ tonight. There’s a movie on at 8:15. Sure, it’s an American flick, but, as (my mother) suggests, it would be interesting to compare Canadian/American cinemas with British cinemas. Besides, it’s only £3.

I had a fine dinner tonight: soup with cheese, the chewiest and most delicious bagel I’ve ever eaten, milk and a Dutchie-like pastry that’s less greasy and more yummy! I’ll never be able to eat a Dutchie again and think it’s delicious! I’m tired, but not going to bed early tired. Yup, I’m going out. I’ll be back a little late, but I can’t imagine getting lost in Aviemore, there have to be more rabbits and slugs than people in this crummy joint. I agree totally with The Rough Guide (my slightly outdated, but still amazing guidebook). Aviemore isn’t great, but it’s surrounded by great walking country.

Speaking of which, I don’t think I could have made it to the lake without a map and compass. Coming back was easier, but I missed my turnoff and had to backtrack. I was walking through heather moorland, just like I’ve always dreamed, climbing over fences and jumping burns. I think this ‘flat level’ walk did me a ton of good. Yep, I think I’ll be ready for Ben Nevis! (at least I hope; in the papers yesterday there was an article about a man who fell off the mountain and died. Thanks for the encouragement!) That’s one thing I’d regret not doing.

… (more rambling about plans)

9:46 pm

I didn’t make it to the movie, finally. I found the building, it was run down, creepy, and empty. I wasn’t desperate enough to brave the ‘entrance’ and go towards the sound of 2 voices. Instead, I had a lovely walk to the edge of town. When I got back here, I settled down with a newspaper and a Kit Kat and tea I’d bought. Then, I planned my stay in Inverness. I’ll ‘wander’ around town tomorrow. I should be able to do both Culloden and Cawdor on Thursday, they’re on the same bus route.

‘My heart’s in the Highlands

My heart is not here

My heart’s in the Highlands

A chasing the deer

Chasing the deer

And following the roe

My heart’s in the Highlands

Wherever I go. 

… (Burns)’

 

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Pitlochry to Aviemore

9:17 AM

I’ve had a terrific night. My internal alarm clock is working fine!

Breakfast was definitely worth £2! I couldn’t even finish! There was fresh fruit (I took an apple to eat later, as a snack!), yoghurt, excellent O.J., hard toast (there were 2, I could only eat 1), cereal (Alpen, again. What can I say? It’s great!). I also drank some of the very good cool milk. I’m all set to face the day. There’s about 2 ½ hours to go until Haggis picks me up.

This is my 1st rainy morning in Scotland. It’s sort of a relief. I was getting used to the good weather! It’s time to take out the parka. It’s going to be a pain in the butt, though, this wet weather. I’m going to be soaked all the time and laundry will take longer to dry. Ah! Welcome to Scotland!!! Anyhoo, I’m going to look through my guidebook to see if there are ‘Wallacey’ places near Aviemore. (nope) The closest I’ve come to dear old Bill was yesterday’s hike through Bobby Bruce country!

12:22 pm

I’ve just crossed over into the Highlands. It’s magical, misty, and (brown) heather covered. Just as I’ve always dreamt.

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4:25 pm.

I want to catch up on a ton of stuff that’s been lagging since Glasgow, so please excuse any rambling.

So… this is the Highlands. While Aviemore is butt ugly, They are majestic!!! Tomorrow, I’ve planned a hike around Loch an eilan, which I suppose means lake and island. There’s a castle in the middle of the loch (on the eilan, of course). This is the ugliest hostel I’ve ever stayed in. The building was obviously built with this purpose in mind. Walking down the halls, one’s feet resonate as they do when one walks through a mobile home. This group of French students has just come in and they’re loud! There is nothing to the town and it is very unfriendly. Still, it looks like good walking country. This is a ‘resort’ town and there’s an Americanish feel to it. I glanced at a restaurant menu and guess what was the first item on the menu? I’ll give you a hint. Their version comes with a choice of cheeses and sauces/gravies. Give up? POUTINE!!! And spelled just that way ! ! Unbelievable !

As I walked down to the visitor’s centre (a fair walk, but much more useful, cheap, and friendly than the information centre), there were these weird little black things on the ground. Thinking they might be dog poop, I tried to shove one aside so that people wouldn’t step on them. To my surprise, they were kind of… mushy. I poked on a little, trying to guess what on Earth it could be. Eventually, I gave up and went on my way. A few metres down, I found another. This one had a face. It was a slug. I feel so bad, I most likely killed the other one. I also saw a hare/rabbit in a meadow.

Now, some notes of a much more general nature:

1)         SYH (that’s Scottish Youth Hostels) sleep 5 nights, get 6th free. My 2nd night in Inverness will be free, I guess. Unfortunately, I didn’t have my voucher in Glasgow. If I did, tomorrow night or my 1st night in Inverness would be free. Oh well, I have a whole other voucher, too.

The hostels appear to have a ‘formula’. Big, comfy, comforters  with linen included in the price.

2)         taps: this is the 1st place I’ve encountered where hot and cold water come out of the same faucet (Yay! I won’t have to wash my hair in cold water tomorrow!)

3)         Haggis: basically, I call Edinburgh at least 24 hrs. before I want to move, give them my # (9337) and tell them where I want to go. I’m picked up at the time I was dropped. It’s that easy! The drivers chatter non-stop about anything remotely related to Scotland! Craig, whom I had today, seems more… approachable? than John whom I had Glasgow to Edinburgh to Pitlochry. Both, though, are excellent guides and heaps of fun!

4)         heather: the hills are fuzzy with the stuff! It’s just on the point of blooming, it has a purpley tinge to it already. I’ve been told that a few more days of sun and the hills will come alive, a full month and a ½ early! (no such luck. I’ll have to go in August next time!) Oh! I hope so !

I’ve probably forgotten some stuff, but that’s it for now.

past 8

The kitchen here is unbelievable! A long row of (gas) stoves and several others of sinks. All very clean. I just had soup and milk for dinner, I wasn’t feeling up to par today, maybe it’s the water?.. (I finally clue in!)

Can you believe I saw a car today that had honest to goodness, genuine HAWAII licence plates? I’ve seen a plate like that on a car in Chambly, but in Aviemore, Scotland?! Now, that car’s a long way from home ! Anyhoo, I’m going to retire with a book someone left on the pamphlet rack. Whenever I’m done with it I’ll leave it in some pamphlet rack ! I have yet to decide where I’m going to stay in Inverness. There are tons of hostels! I’ll ask for advice, I guess, I’d like to stay in a relatively small and quiet one.

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In Which I Discovery Whisky and Uskeba is Born

10:27 AM

I’m following the orange trail. I’ve stopped at the Golf pond. You should see the ducks! I shared part of my lunch with them!

11:08 AM

I’m sitting on a carved piece of wood that has a plaque which says ‘sit and enjoy the view’. So I am. The whole of Perthshire is laid out before me. Everything is so painfully beautiful and green. I’m following a road that Robert the Bruce marched across in 1306! Is it a wonder that I have ‘Scots Wha Hae’ running over and over in my mind! And to think that I couldn’t get myself out of bed this morning! It was 9 when I finally dragged myself out. Well, I’ll be on my way. I do want to make it to the distillery today and I must do so before 4. Lots of time, you say? I’m still at the beginning of this walk and it’s like 9.5 klicks or something. I haven’t felt so at peace since Colorado. Here’s another place where I’ll leave a chunk of my soul.

time? I don’t care! near noon

I’ve just finished an incredible hike up. The view here is so clear we can see straight through to the Glencoe mountains in the west. This place is called Craighower Hill. (The view out to Skye is ‘the Road to the Isles’, which can only be seen on a clear day, which are very rare. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky!!!)

12:58

Well, I’m back on the bench! It’s taken me 2 whole hours to get up and back. The road down was very twisty. The people who design roads in this country must be a little loco! The view from Craighower was incredible. I felt like I had the whole of Scotland at my feet. I used to find Canada rugged, well it isn’t, it’s untamed. Scotland has tamed its lands, while not foregoing an endearing ruggedness. ‘How could people have survived here for so long, fought to keep the land?’ (I took this paraphrase from the Lonely Planet guide to Great Britain) Oh! It’s so beautiful, better than in all my dreams! I walked through meadows of what I assume to be unbloomed heather. I’ll be on my way now, I want to do the distillery walk and the distillery opens in an hour. I can’t wait to taste the supposedly foul tasting brew. I’m told that most people don’t like ‘water of life’, so, since I’m so unlike most people, I’ll probably like it! Yeah right! I’m not expecting to enjoy it, but I look forward to finally tasting some.

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5:38 pm.

I think I’m in trouble. My initial reaction to whisky was the same as my initial reaction to beer: ‘I don’t like it, but I don’t hate it’. One knows how I have come to acquire a palate for beer, to say the least!

I’ve done more than enough walking for today! I am so stiff! I luxuriated in a scalding shower and put on totally fresh clothes, including jeans. I’m spending 2 nights in Aviemore, so if I launder straight away when I arrive I should have pretty much 2 full days for my laundry to dry! (turns out Aviemore is one of a few hostels I encountered which has a ‘drying room’—a room where the heat is turned way up at night so that clothes may dry more quickly.) I’m so pooped I can’t envision going down the steep hill outside leading up to the hostel in order to get dinner. I’ll have to go up it, after!

I’m very ahead in my budget so if I manage to get my butt ‘downtown’ I think I’ll have dinner in a restaurant. I should be eating more. Maybe that’s why I’m not up to my usual speed.

On my way back from Craighower, I stopped to feed the ducks (again). I got some to eat right out of my hand! One even clamped his beak down on my finger, but it didn’t hurt. One of the birds had a lame foot. I was extra generous to it!

It’s almost 6 so I guess I’ll go in search of dinner. I think tomorrow will be a ‘down’ day. They are necessary, I think. Tuesday, I’ll explore the area around Aviemore just like I did today in Pitlochry. Later.

7:48 pm

I returned from a yummy dinner of a veg. burger (hey, they’re cheap and filling, and this one was (and still is) the best I’ve ever eaten!) to find 2 guys in my room. Thanks to Edinburgh, I was hardly fazed. I nonchalantly headed down to the common room to discover that in my absence one of the ‘hostesses’ confronted the Aussie who was also staying tonight, claiming that she and I hadn’t paid for tonight! Well, my roomie got that sorted out. Anyhow, I found out that 6 guys had been put in the room and we had to move. It’s no big deal, but it is a hassle. I’d just spread out some wet stuff (now all those guys know what my undies look like!) and after rummaging through my bag, I’d left stuff strewn all over the bunk. Plus, I had to remake the bed. Oh well, it is better than sleeping w/ the sheep! I hope I won’t be hassled about ‘not having paid’ tomorrow! I asked for directions to the ‘small dining room’. I was told to look for a door marked ‘strictly private’… and go in. Boy, I love the Scots!!!

… (extremely tentative itinerary)

Hell, I’m never going home!

Despite its beautiful name, it would appear that there isn’t much in Inverness. That doesn’t matter, I guess, since I’ll be using Inverness as a ‘springboard’ to the northern Highlands. I’m even starting to think that I shouldn’t ‘rush’ things with Haggis and just make a quick ‘overnight’ to Edinburgh to meet John and Linda (the authors of the ‘MacBraveheart’ homepage). I think Skye will take a long time to explore. It would appear that Eilean Donan (castle) is worth the trip. Besides, Skye is part of the Hebrides! ‘And we in dreams behold the Hebrides’. (‘Canadian Boat Song’) I have to go!

It’s 8:35 and I’m just about ready for bed! I hiked almost non-stop and was up for 8 hours. I guess this is how I’ll feel once I’ve tackled Ben Nevis ! Actually, I have a ton of packing to do. Breakfast is from between 8 and 9 AM. And I have to be out of the room by 9:30. I’m supposed to be out of the hostel by 10 :30, but I’m sure I’ll be allowed to stay until the Haggis bus comes (there are 4 of us leaving, at least). I hope that the Aviemore hostel isn’t on top of a hill.I’m going to have to rethink my travel arrangements, I’m losing a lot of time.

 

I just discovered that Aviemore is in the Highlands!!! Yippee!!! This is way cool. Cool, cool, cool, cool!!!

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Edinburgh to Pitlochry

7:37 AM

I’ve had a most comfortable night. What I like about this B and B is that a whole family lives here (the owners, of course). I’m getting a taste of what life is like for a family in Edinburgh. I’m glad that Yvonne picked me up yesterday. The B and B is situated in this tiny courtyard called Coiney House Close, just off New Skinner Close. To get into the building, you have to open this great big barn-like door, go up 3 flights of stairs until you reach another number 3 (the address is 3/3). The courtyard is so European, all cobblestone and stone buildings, very beautiful. I must say that finding this place was more than luck, it’s the sort of thing you read about in travel journals but never have happen to you. Breakfast, though, was not great, it was adequate: oatmealy cereal with raisins (I ate it with milk) and (white, yuck) toast with pineapple jam (yum!).

Of course, I never expected much sun in Scotland, so I didn’t bring much in the way of sunscreen. You should see my nose! I also have a nasty scrape on my wrist from scraping it against the rough wall as I clambered up the stairs after Yvonne with my huge pack (I would soon become known by everyone on Haggis as ‘the Canadian with the *really* small pack! I must say my packing job was *excellent*. I had nothing I didn’t need, and I’d only forgotten two minor things I could live without!). I have to make sure it doesn’t get infected. I never thought I’d be using the 1st aid kit so soon in my trip! Well, I’d better be going. Haggis is expecting me in 15 min. Both Michael and the guy from Laval are with Haggis also, except they’re doing 6 and 3-day tours.

Later (from Perth or Pitlochry?)

9:24 AM

I’m crossing the Firth of Forth.

10: 32 AM

We’re driving through the very pitiful remains of Birnam woods.

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3:24 pm

Well, I’m in Pitlochry. It’s very beautiful. I’ll most likely take a day trip or 2 from Edinburgh into Fife. I saw Perth and that was enough. I’ll be staying here for two nights. Tomorrow, I plan on hiking. Scotland’s smallest distillery is here, and I’ll be visiting it tomorrow (supposedly we get a free dram at the end of the tour).

Figures. I leave a big city for a town with a pop. of 2,000 and I find my 1st (and only, so far) stop sign and a ‘real’ supermarket. I’ve got my next three meals covered (that’s 4 in all) if I don’t mind eating bread, cheese, peanut butter, apples, and water for a while. I’ve bought Galloway cheddar. It’s delicious. On the way here, we stopped to hike a bit. I saw ‘Braes Folly’ (actually I’m not sure if that’s the real name, but ‘Braes’ and ‘Folly’ are 2 of the names associated w/ the area. Lodging here is £15… for 2 nights, breakfast not included. Even with the breakfast you can buy (£2), it’s still cheaper than Glasgow or Edinburgh, and the sheets are provided.

8:25 pm

I attempted to do the ‘Moulin’ walk today, but somehow got off the trail! (during the summer, the sun sets incredibly late. You can go out for a long walk/hike after dinner, and be back before twilight!) I still got some great mileage in cow country and soon discovered to my relief that I wasn’t lost but merely misplaced since I finally ended up just where I should! The countryside is so very much like the Cantons de l’est, that must be why so many Scots settled there. On my walk, I crossed some very noisy sheep and some stupid, staring cows. I also scared a… pheasant! Or something that looks a hell of a lot like a pheasant. I also saw a hare. I really got a taste of the ‘freedom of passage’ thingamabob. I was walking straight through fields of grazing cows for Pete’s sake! I even had to open and close a few barriers and climb over another. I ended up in some ‘old’ couple’s yard. I was embarrassed but the lady only glanced up long enough to say ‘hello’.

I called (my mother) tonight through ‘Canada Direct’. It was ridiculously easy. She’s happy to have a more detailed itinerary. I’m thinking of Aviemore for 2 nights, then Inverness and my long sought Ben and Loch Loyal up way north! I’m doing fine financially and time-wise (the former, yes ; the latter no, as I would soon discover to my ‘horror’!), so why not see if there’s anything to be seen! Of course, once I enter the Highlands I’ll enquire about whether it’s actually worth going up there.

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Exploring Glasgow and on to Edinburgh

About 8:25 AM.

J’ai fait le ‘tour de l’horloge’. That is, I slept from 7:30pm to 7:30 am (interrupted, of course, but only briefly). Why don’t I feel refreshed? Because my body says that it’s early morning! But, since I got up at ‘normal’ G.T., I’ll most likely go to bed at a normal time and wake up on time tomorrow!  Breakfast was great. I haven’t spent any money this morning and I have in me a full bowl of Alpen cereal, two glasses (warmish, but very tolerable) milk, one glass powdered O.J. (icky), and two sandwiches (1 whole wheat, the other yummy white) composed of cheese (processed, naturally…!) apricot marmalade ,and real butter. Now that’s an ideal breakfast for the type of day ahead! None of that American sweetroll ‘crap’. I’m all set to go to the city centre, now. It seems that the Necropolis doesn’t have an opening time. The cathedral (me going to church?!) opens at 9:30. It’s 8:28 (am) now, so by the time I get going it’ll be about 9:00. The walk to the city centre I’m told takes 30-45 minutes, so I should be arriving just as everything opens. I think that I might spend the morning in the city centre, then hike back to see the transport museum this afternoon. I’ll see.

My first ‘real’ morning in Scotland (ie. awaking in bed!) is bright and sunny, a few harmless clouds can be seen in the distance. It looks coldish, though. Anyway, later, I’m anxious to go and explore!

P.S. glad to see I got over the depression?!

10:35 am

I just finished touring the Glasgow Cathedral and its cemetery. This church was constructed during the Middle Ages and finished a few centuries later. I touched stone that was cut by a man who lived in the 12th century!  Contrary to North American equivalents, we could go everywhere and touch everything in this cathedral with one minor exception.  The cemetery is so old that most of the names have disappeared from the stone. The oldest I’ve seen is mid-eighteenth century. (The oldest gravestone I saw during my month long stay in Scotland was mid-fifteenth century! It is a St. Kentigern’s church in Lanark. There’s no date on the gravestone, but you can easily identify it by the skull with crossbones. It’s to the left of the entryway into the cemetery by way of the reconstructed arch in the ruins.) I like cemeteries. They are so peaceful, they don’t care how their inhabitants got there! That’s enough morbidity, I’m going to climb the Necropolis.

P.S. jaywalking appears to be the favourite Glaswegian pastime! Remember, look right then left! (It took me over a week to ‘learn’ how to cross streets in Scotland, and even after a month it still didn’t feel all that natural! I don’t even want to count the number of times people told me to ‘go back to Canada if you don’t know how to cross a street’!!!)

3:50 pm

I’m back at the hostel, waiting in the lobby for Haggis. It’s been an excellent day.

The Necropolis was beautiful despite the fact that several crypts and nooks and crannies were obviously the lodgings of derelicts. It’s a huge cemetery built on a hill. What I liked is that while they maintain the grounds (ex. grassmowing) they don’t repair the stones, allow things to crumble, etc. I almost tripped on a vase that had rolled down a steep hill and was lying flat on its back in the middle of the road! It was obvious that it had been lying there for a while.

Lunch was yet another yummy veggie burger with onions. They’re cheap and plentiful in Glasgow, to my surprise. (Actually, they are very common all over Scotland, even in the smaller towns and you’ll soon discover that it almost became a sport to try the local veggie burger! Although I occasionally found two that were similar, generally no two burgers were exactly alike in taste, texture, or condiment. They made for a cheap meal which varied more than one might imagine!)

After, I bought postcards and a Father’s Day card for Dad. I mailed a postcard to (my stepmother) for her birthday, as well the card for Dad. After, I rode the ‘Clockwork Orange’ (ie the Underground, subway, metro, metropolitana, etc.) back here. It’s clockwork, orange, convenient, and easy to use! as well as cozy and comfortable. (I soon came to realise that it’s a lot easier to use the U to get to the hostel, even if you have to walk maybe five minutes more than if you took the bus. Here are the directions from the Kelvinbridge (bridge, not hall) station. Once above ground, you turn right on the road. You follow its natural curve, and cross an intersection. Keep going straight, this road will merge into Woodland Road. Cross Woodland Road (careful, it’s dangerous!) Follow the youth hostel sign you’ll encounter almost immediately. Easy when someone tells you, but very difficult when you have to discover for yourself! I took the long way for all, but one of about six trips on the U!) Now, I’m going to ask the hostel if I can use their bathroom to freshen up.

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4:08 pm

‘No problem.’ It’s amazing what going to the bathroom, washing your hands, and refilling your canteen (I didn’t carry a water bottle on this trip, rather a 2L hiking canteen. With its strap, it was easier to carry, and its flat shape made it less cumbersome than a bottle.) can do to your spirits! I must that the tap water here is excellent, (that stopped in Inverness, where the water situation went bad. It just didn’t taste good in the Highlands; most likely this is do to the peat which makes the water brown. I also noticed in Pitlochry that the water was making me mildly sick, but not enough to stop my fun, so I put off buying expensive bottled water until the last possible moment. Inverness.) I’m refilling my canteen in bathrooms (the water in bathrooms runs very frequently, so it is usually fresher and better tasting.). Speaking of which, the public one near the Necropolis is unbelievable. It’s clean enough to eat off the toilet bowl , the sink and faucets are sparkling, there are (fake) flowers around the mirrors (there were some in the airport bathroom too, and someone said it was ‘unScottish’), drinking cups and soap are within easy reach, etc. The paper towels are blue and the toilet paper is pink, which makes the water go red!) It’s obvious that Glasgow takes pride in itself. I’m going to wait outside now. Later, perhaps in Edinburgh!

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7:00 pm Edinburgh (!)

Luck does follow me! Haggis was about 45 min (no, that’s not the lucky part, let me finish!) late. The road here was lovely, I saw sheep. Our Haggis driver was most cordial. Arriving here, the people from Haggis asked if I had lodging. No, I said. Well, they said, we’ll ring a couple of places for you. Less than 15 minutes, later I’m settled very comfortable in a B and B two whole minutes from Haggis where the proprietor, Yvonne, picked me up!  For £10, I’ve got breakfast, too! I’ll be staying here, most likely, when I return to Edinburgh. I’m going to take a shower, I stink!

Oh! and I’m sharing a room with a guy from… Laval!!! I’ve had a whole conversation in French today!

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10:16 p.m.

One of my ‘roomies’, a great guy from Edmonton named Michael, and I went out for dinner tonight. Unfortunately, my meal had a bit of hidden meat in it. Considering what I’ve eaten today, I figured a little extra protein wouldn’t hurt, even if it was gross! Besides that, the pasta and sauce was wonderful. One problem: how much to tip! I just realised I probably gave too much! Like 75p too much! Oh, well, the service was good, and I had a little extra. I will have to watch that, however.

Tomorrow, I’m either off to Perth or Pitlochry. Haggis doesn’t run on Sundays, so I’ll have to spend two nights wherever I do go. I’m told that there isn’t much in Perth, but I wanted to see Scone, Dundee, and Saint-Andrews, not to mention… The Cliff (at Kinghorn that King Alexander III rode his horse off of in 1286, pretty much launching the Wars of Independence)!!! I might just get off at Perth, make my own way around Fife, get to Pitlochry and go on from there.

… (long rambling about possible plan. I ended up pretty much missing Fife. It’ll be for next time!)