The Icefields Parkway

The Icefields Parkway is considered to be one of, if not the most, beautiful drives in the world. National Geographic considers it one of the drives of a lifetime. I did my homework on this road! I researched grades, RV-worthiness, facilities, etc. and knew exactly what I was getting into as I headed south from Jasper towards Banff.

Except for one section after the Columbia Icefield, there are no major grades on the parkway, just a lot of small steep sections that could fool you into complacency and wear down your brakes. One of the things I quickly established was that I would not be able to stop as much as I would have liked for two reasons:

1) many rest stops and attractions were close-ended and too small to turn around with a toad;
2) they were at the bottom of hills and would require too much brake jamming to stop at.

I stopped whenever I felt I could safely do so and took long breaks to give both the brakes and the engine a chance for a rest, too.

The parkway starts off lined with trees and rimmed with jagged snowy peaks and then gradually climbs up to the Columbia Icefield where you can see the Athabasca glacier. I stopped at the centre there to see the exhibits, but was not tempted by a pricey trip up the glacier.

The Icefield is located about halfway and the day had been going so, so well. I could have driven up the glacier to a view point, but decided the grade was too steep and that if I made it up, I probably wouldn’t make it down. I was playing it safe.

So, I finally let myself relax and that was that. I’m not sure if I did something wrong going down that big grade, but I got my fill of mountain passes for a lifetime.

My picture gallery ends just after the Icefield. My mind was not on photography after that. 🙁

This plaque about David Thompson is significant to me. It says that he died at Longueuil, which is practically my hometown. I did not know this. It just goes to show how French Canada goes out of its way to squash down the English side of Canadian history.

This plaque about David Thompson is significant to me. It says that he died at Longueuil, which is practically my hometown. I did not know this. It just goes to show how French Canada goes out of its way to squash down the English side of Canadian history.

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look at where those clouds are!

look at where those clouds are!

perfect place to stop for lunch!

perfect place to stop for lunch!

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I love how these folks were sitting on their chairs, enjoying their picnic!

I love how these folks were sitting on their chairs, enjoying their picnic!

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approaching Columbia Ice Fields

approaching Columbia Ice Fields

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Athabasca Glacier

Athabasca Glacier

I don't think I've seen one of these in two years!

I don’t think I’ve seen one of these in two years!

Do you want to know... where are the toilets. Seriously. Personally, that wasn't my first question upon arriving at the Ice Fields Centre!

Do you want to know… where are the toilets. Seriously. Personally, that wasn’t my first question upon arriving at the Ice Fields Centre!

staircase up to the Ice Fields Centre

staircase up to the Ice Fields Centre

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with a camera zoom like that, who needs binoculars?

with a camera zoom like that, who needs binoculars?

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the glacier recedes annually a distance that is roughly equal to the width of a post card!

the glacier recedes annually a distance that is roughly equal to the width of a post card!

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this memo states that the exhibits haven't been updated since 1996, but they are working on updates

this memo states that the exhibits haven’t been updated since 1996, but they are working on updates

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this double-sided sign used to stand a the border between Banff & Jasper national parks

this double-sided sign used to stand a the border between Banff & Jasper national parks

this double-sided sign used to stand a the border between Banff & Jasper national parks

this double-sided sign used to stand a the border between Banff & Jasper national parks

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I made a note of this plaque because of the 'water-melon snow algae', which I saw a lot of on the Chilkoot

I made a note of this plaque because of the ‘water-melon snow algae’, which I saw a lot of on the Chilkoot

old Bombardier snow machine that took tourists up the glacier

old Bombardier snow machine that took tourists up the glacier

a perfect example of why people have silly stereotypes about Canada

a perfect example of why people have silly stereotypes about Canada

a perfect example of why people have silly stereotypes about Canada

a perfect example of why people have silly stereotypes about Canada

I almost missed this nice little addition to the display, seen from the floor above the information centre

I almost missed this nice little addition to the display, seen from the floor above the information centre

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this plaque reads that the edge of the glacier was right there in 1843. I'm guesstimating, but it looked to me like the glacier receded at least 1km since then

this plaque reads that the edge of the glacier was right there in 1843. I’m guesstimating, but it looked to me like the glacier receded at least 1km since then

hardy glacial plants

hardy glacial plants

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one last attempt to capture the majesty I now had to flee...

one last attempt to capture the majesty I now had to flee…

Jasper and Environs

I decided to go into Jasper today with the toad, much like I did when I visited Banff. There was a museum exhibit I did not want to miss, not believing my good fortune at being here in time for it, and I also wanted to check out some of the surrounding area. It made better sense to do that with the smaller vehicle with good gas mileage! This is going to be rather a long post, but I don’t feel that the individual items deserve their own posts. I’ve interspersed some photos into the text, but do check out the gallery in its entirety for more details.

Jasper townsite is about 75km from Hinton, nearly an hour away. It was almost noon when I pulled up to the park gates. I was asked if I was stopping in the park (no pass is required if you drive straight through) and, if so, for how many days. I replied that I would be going in and out today and would be going through tomorrow. I don’t know if it was the lateness of the hour or what, but I was given a pass that’s good till 4PM tomorrow for the daily rate!

en route to Jasper townsite

Like Banff, Jasper is located within a national park. Unlike Banff, Jasper has an industry outside of tourism so it has a stable economic base that does not fluctuate with the seasons. My impression of Jasper is that it is a more humble version of the ritzy tourist town (think Banff, Aspen, Whistler…). It’s a bit grittier than I would have expected, store and gas prices are reasonable, and homes tend to be modest… even though a tiny bungalow costs a half million dollars!

downtown Jasper

The town is small and doable on foot, so I just parked at the entrance and did a sort of figure eight through the streets, taking in the major landmarks. I noted that there is well-marked RV parking in town.

Jasper Library

I was eager to get to the museum to see the exhibit about the explorer David Thompson.

Jasper museum

Thompson is an explorer who charted most of the continent in the early 19th century. His maps are legendary. He was a man who understood that he was witnessing sweeping changes to the British North American regime and the birth of a nation. He was the one who charted a usable route through the Rockies, securing what is now British Columbia, a land the Americans were eying. Thompson’s explorations united eastern and western Canada and helped shaped the nation that was born on July 1, 1867. Like many great men, he died penniless and insignificant. A sad end to a remarkable story.

excerpt from Thompson’s diary

The Jasper museum is excellent! It charts the history of the park and the townsite from prehistory to today. Like many towns, Jasper’s heyday ended with the demise of the railroad era. Today, the Jasper Lodge attractions the wealthy and famous sort of folk that were the original visitors to Jasper until reliable roads made the area and townsite more accessible. It was around the 1950’s that the idea came to charge people an entrance fee into the park.

gate into Jasper, circa 1950

After getting my fill of the museum, I grabbed some lunch and then headed out of town to travel the Maligne Lake Road.

Jasper train yard

This road leads to the swanky Jasper Lodge, as well as several geographic landmarks of interest: Maligne Ravine, Medicine Lake, and Maligne Lake. Maligne comes from old French that means ‘wicked’, thus named by a man of the cloth who had a difficult time making a portage.

Maligne Valley

Maligne Ravine was my favourite outdoor part of the day. The sinuous, claustrophobic channel with its thunderous waterfalls and turquoise pools filled me with wonder. I practically hung off the side of the bridges to try to get a sense of the sheer drop with my camera, but I don’t think I really captured it. The view was such that I didn’t even think about the height factor. I just wanted to take it all in!

Maligne Ravine

Next stop was Medicine Lake, so called by the local natives because they felt the lake contained medicine, or magic. This lake looks like a lake in the summer, but drains in the fall, leaving only shallow pools! The mystery has been explained, but it’s still quite a sight to behold!

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Shortly after Medicine Lake, I encountered a pair of moose:

The final stop of the day was Maligne Lake, considered one of the most beautiful in Canada. It was worth the nearly one hour drive from Jasper townsite!

Maligne Lake

I did pop over to the Jasper Lodge on the way back, but I was most certainly not dressed to be walking around a posh property inconspicuously, so I was a bit shy and only got a shot of it from a distance:

Jasper Lodge

Coming home, I finally had a wildlife sighting I’ve been eager for. I’ve seen deer, caribou, moose, bison, foxes, wolves, bears, and more, but I’ve never seen a wild sheep before! Thank you construction for slowing down traffic!

sheep

I ended the day by popping into Hinton to scope out the best gas station at which to fuel up Miranda tomorrow (the Shell on the north side) and to get some groceries (VERY nice IGA!).

When I got home, I hooked up the water and sewer hoses after filling the fresh water tank. I dumped the holding tanks and will put away everything once I’ve had a long shower tonight. The car is already hooked up, so there won’t be too much to do to get ready tomorrow. I’ll have a lot of ground to cover and many things to see, so I don’t want to waste too much time puttering around here.

Finally, here is a shot of the campground:

Hinton/Jasper KOA

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

en route to Jasper townsite

downtown Jasper

downtown Jasper

downtown Jasper

downtown Jasper

I'd love to bank here!

I’d love to bank here!

Nearly freezing out, with snow on the ground, and they're mowing the lawn!

Nearly freezing out, with snow on the ground, and they’re mowing the lawn!

Jasper Visitors' Centre

Jasper Visitors’ Centre

downtown Jasper

downtown Jasper

downtown Jasper

downtown Jasper

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Jasper Library

Jasper Library

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playground with a view

playground with a view

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Jasper museum

Jasper museum

banner promoting the Thompson exhibit

banner promoting the Thompson exhibit

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gate into Jasper, circa 1950

gate into Jasper, circa 1950

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David Thompson

David Thompson

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excerpt from Thompson's diary

excerpt from Thompson’s diary

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painting of Thompson portaging in the Kootenays

painting of Thompson portaging in the Kootenays

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Jasper train yard

Jasper train yard

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Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Valley

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

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Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

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Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

Maligne Ravine

teahouse at the Maligne Ravine

teahouse at the Maligne Ravine

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

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Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

Medicine Lake

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moose

moose

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Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Maligne Lake

Jasper Lodge

Jasper Lodge

Jasper Lodge

Jasper Lodge

sheep

sheep

Hinton/Jasper KOA

Hinton/Jasper KOA

Miranda at the Hinton/Jasper KOA

Miranda at the Hinton/Jasper KOA

Quick Look at Hinton and Thinking About Jasper

I ended up driving into Hinton for dinner tonight and also to gas up the toad. Highway 16 shoots straight through town and on each side of it are the usual big box stores, including a Walmart and a Canadian Tire. There might be more to the town, but at first glance it doesn’t seem like much.

The restaurant choices were uninspired so being in the mood for shrimp I ended up at Joey’s Only Seafood. Never been to that chain before even though I have lived and traveled through many towns with one. The food was adequate, reasonably priced, and had generous but not not exaggerated quantities. It wouldn’t be my first choice next time I go out for dinner, but for tonight it worked. I had a shrimp and chicken combo with rice and veggies.

I then gassed up the toad, at 91.9! I will make sure to gas up both vehicles at the very limit of Alberta to take full advantage of the price here!

While I had planned to go to Jasper tomorrow, I may end up hanging out at home instead. Both vehicles badly need an exterior cleaning and I have a few things to troubleshoot. There doesn’t seem to be enough to do in Jasper to justify the 140km round trip in the toad, nor paying the park entry fee twice. I might take up Croft’s suggestion from 2008 and instead get up early on Wednesday, park Miranda on the edge of town, and then explore at my leisure. Decisions, decisions. 🙂 Whatever I do, I do not want to spend a night within the park borders; I simply cannot justify paying $40-$50 to boondock on Crown land!!!