The Pacific Rim Highway

Today, I drove the Pacific Rim Highway, which starts just north of Nanaimo, all the way to its end in Tofino, where I’ll be for the next three days. More on that later. 🙂

By RV, the PRH would suck. It is a narrow, winding road with one steep downhill after another. In a subcompact with a manual transmission, however, it was like being on a rollercoaster. Wheeeeeee! 😀

While the distance between Campbell River and Tofino is small, just a couple hundred kilometres, the time is great. It took me over five hours since I made a few stops and often could drive no more than thirty or forty klicks an hour.

Donna suggested I visit Little Qualicum Falls, so that’s where I pulled over first and did a little bit of hiking. I didn’t dare stay long since parking for an hour was a dollar and the only coins I had on me totaled seventy cents.

My mother suggested my next stop, Cathedral Grove. This is the site of one of the last old growth Douglas Fir forests on the west coast. Some of these trees are more than 300 years old. Some are at least 800 years old.

This place had an ethereal quality. I stood there, craning to see the tops of this handful of trees that has survived logging, disease, storms, and fire and I wept. It was a profound experience. I challenge anyone to stop at Cathedral Grove and not be moved.

Next, I discovered Sproat Lake. It was so clear that, well, it brought to mind a quote from Forrest Gump:

… that mountain lake. It was so clear, it looked like there were two skies one on top of the other.

I pulled into Tofino around 2:30, but could not check into my accomodation until 4, so I parked and walked around a bit, covering the entire, tiny, community. It’s the off season, so very little was open. I dabbled with the idea of having a dinner out instead of cooking, but the only options within walking distance would have cost over $50, more than my budget could cover, especially when I know I could get an equivalent meal in Campbell River for half of that.

You’ll need to come back for the next post to find out where I’m staying. 🙂

stairs to the lower falls

stairs to the lower falls

lower falls

lower falls

lower falls

lower falls

footbridge over the lower falls

footbridge over the lower falls

path near the lower falls

path near the lower falls

lower falls

lower falls

lower falls

lower falls

footbridge seen from further up the falls

footbridge seen from further up the falls

lower falls

lower falls

lower falls (I like that pool of standing water)

lower falls (I like that pool of standing water)

picnic shelter

picnic shelter

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tundra-like vegetation

tundra-like vegetation

looking up towards the upper falls

looking up towards the upper falls

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a national tragedy...

a national tragedy…

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western red cedar is in no way related to eastern white cedar

western red cedar is in no way related to eastern white cedar

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There was no Devil's Club out today, but I saw plenty of it on the Alaska side of the Chilkoot trail

There was no Devil’s Club out today, but I saw plenty of it on the Alaska side of the Chilkoot trail

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'the big tree' more than six feet wide and taller than the tower of Pisa!

‘the big tree’ more than six feet wide and taller than the tower of Pisa!

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a nurse log

a nurse log

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(unfortunate name for a disease)

(unfortunate name for a disease)

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I like how they just took a chunk out of the tree instead of removing it entirely.

I like how they just took a chunk out of the tree instead of removing it entirely.

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Cameron Lake

Cameron Lake

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idiots in the 70's set fire to this magnificent, centuries old, tree

idiots in the 70’s set fire to this magnificent, centuries old, tree

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idiots in the 70's set fire to this magnificent, centuries old, tree

idiots in the 70’s set fire to this magnificent, centuries old, tree

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this stunning lake teased me for several kilometres until I could find a place to pull over and take a few shots of it!

this stunning lake teased me for several kilometres until I could find a place to pull over and take a few shots of it!

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Clayoquot Sound

Clayoquot Sound

Clayoquot Sound

Clayoquot Sound

church on Main Street

church on Main Street

Clayoquot Sound

Clayoquot Sound

I laughed so hard at this restaurant sign. My dad's name was Gary and he loved 'Canadian & Chinese Food' restaurants.

I laughed so hard at this restaurant sign. My dad’s name was Gary and he loved ‘Canadian & Chinese Food’ restaurants.

Campbell River to Nanaimo

There are two ways to get from Campbell River to Nanaimo. The first is the way I came after the ferry, highway 19, a new thoroughfare deemed the ‘inland highway.’ It is a speedway, pure and simple, with the highest speed limit I’ve ever seen in Canada (110kph) and nothing to see except a blur of trees. The second option is the older ‘ocean route’, highway 19A, which meanders its way quietly through sleepy hamlets. This is the route I picked to go to Nanaimo today.

It rained all day and most businesses were shut tight, so there wasn’t really much exploring to do. I simply savoured the coastal drive, occasionally stopping for photographs or to stretch my legs.

My longest stop before Nanaimo was in Qualicum Beach, a picturesque retirement community with the oldest average population in Canada. ‘Qualicum’ is from the Pentlach language and means ‘chum salmon.’ I took a small detour into downtown so I could see some of the murals. The town has a museum, but it is only open on Tuesdays and Thursdays during the winter.

I’ve known about Nanaimo since I was a girl because my childhood best friend moved there when were were about ten. I looked him up before coming to the Island, but have thus far been unable to find him and imagine that he’s probably no longer in town. Nanaimo is also famous because of the delicious dessert named after it, the Nanaimo Bar, a decadent confection featuring chocolate, custard, and coconut.

The weather made wandering around the pedestrian-friendly downtown unappealing, so I decided to visit the Nanaimo Museum and take a quick glimpse at the harbour, then call it a day.

Coming into downtown Nanaimo was frustrating. There were two signs for the city and then signs for Victoria, more than a hundred kilometres away. I assumed that I missed downtown and got off the highway, then spent some time trying to find the museum before my GPS was able to help me. As it turns out, Nanaimo is a long, narrow city, and there were more than ten kilometres left to drive before hitting the downtown exit. Nanaimo definitely needs a ‘exit at *** for downtown’ sign at the city limits. Once downtown the museum is easy to find, just follow the big blue M signs. I was happy to find free parking at the corner of Museum Way and Terminal Avenue, literally in front of the museum entrance.

The Nanaimo Museum is brand new. The $2 entrance fee was easily explained by the museum’s size; tiny. This is a fine museum that makes full use of its small footprint. Within a few minutes of arrival I knew what Nanaimo was all about, from its coal mining origins to its bathtub races and Native heritage. It was one of the best museums I have ever visited.

During the summer, the museum also operates the Nanaimo Bastion, a fort built by the Hudson’s Bay Company between 1853 and 1855 to defend its coal mining operations. I had a chance to view the exterior of the Bastion after taking a quick tour of the harbour, which was cut short by the start of a downpour that did not let up until I got home. The harbour was just a couple of blocks from the museum and my raincoat was soaked through by the time I made it back to the car!

Nanaimo has a reputation for being a working, charmless, city, but I found downtown to be quite beautiful and I would very much like to spend more time exploring it on a slightly drier day. Being just 150km from Campbell River, it is the perfect destination for a day trip; far enough away to shake off cabin fever, but still near enough to be easily doable as a round trip.

the first rest area outside of Campbell River

the first rest area outside of Campbell River

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

next rest area

next rest area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Oysters underfoot at Baynes Sound Rest Area

Oysters underfoot at Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

trawlers off of Baynes Sound Rest Area

trawlers off of Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

farm across from Baynes Sound Rest Area

farm across from Baynes Sound Rest Area

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

mural in downtown Qualicum Beach

mural in downtown Qualicum Beach

details about the mural

details about the mural

mural in downtown Qualicum Beach

mural in downtown Qualicum Beach

downtown Qualicum Beach

downtown Qualicum Beach

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bathtub racing, what an idea!

bathtub racing, what an idea!

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Nanaimo bars

Nanaimo bars

the first black teacher in BC

the first black teacher in BC

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Nanaimo's mines are notorious for their death and injury rates, hence the ironic messages.

Nanaimo’s mines are notorious for their death and injury rates, hence the ironic messages.

Native dress

Native dress

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this trunk belonged to Joseph McKay, founder of Nanaimo

this trunk belonged to Joseph McKay, founder of Nanaimo

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model of Nanaimo's Bastion

model of Nanaimo’s Bastion

model of Nanaimo's Bastion

model of Nanaimo’s Bastion

model of Nanaimo's Bastion

model of Nanaimo’s Bastion

world famous singer Diana Krall is from Nanaimo

world famous singer Diana Krall is from Nanaimo

arrowheads

arrowheads

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these beautiful combs caught my eye

these beautiful combs caught my eye

drum

drum

Victrola

Victrola

book of Victrola records

book of Victrola records

Victrola

Victrola

historic building

historic building

close-up

close-up

downtown Nanaimo

downtown Nanaimo

:-)

🙂

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Nanaimo Harbour

Nanaimo Harbour

Nanaimo Harbour

Nanaimo Harbour

what a great staircase!

what a great staircase!

Nanaimo Harbour

Nanaimo Harbour

Nanaimo Harbour

Nanaimo Harbour

I don't know if I will ever be able to see a palm tree in the wild and not feel a tingle.

I don’t know if I will ever be able to see a palm tree in the wild and not feel a tingle.

the Bastion

the Bastion

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Crossing Over

My ferry options from Horseshoe Bay were 8:30, 10:30, and 12:30 if I wanted to arrive in Campbell River in daylight. I decided to aim for the 8:30 and be in line for the 10:30 if I arrived too late.

One of my many RVing rules is that I don’t drive in unfamiliar territory at night and/or in inclement weather. In order to get to Horseshoe Bay for 8:30 I would have to drive in the dark. I also woke up in Squamish to a downpour.

Having done the drive to Horseshoe Bay in the toad, I felt okay with taking Miranda out in those conditions. It was slow, slippery going, but I was reasonably relaxed and I refused to look at a clock.

I’m disappointed that I finished the Sea to Sky highway twice in such downpours as to negate the possibility of taking pictures worth sharing.

At any rate, I made it to Horseshoe Bay just as daylight was starting to break through the rain. It’s downhill from the first exit all the way to the toll booth and I was a nervous wreck by the time I stopped there because even with gearing down and pumping to compensate for the slick pavement, I could smell my brakes. Oh, I know it was a normal, new brake smell, not a something’s wrong smell, but I just wanted to get on that boat, disappointed that my relaxed mood had been spoiled. I was very grateful that I had come ahead with the toad and knew ahead of time which lane to be in with an RV.

My rig was measured and deemed to be 50′ long, not the 45′ feet I had guesstimated!!! I had used the BC Ferries website to figure out how much it was going to cross to get over and had calculated that a 45′ long over-size vehicle with one person would cost 275$, but wasn’t confident about that number because the math seemed very convoluted. So, I had a mild heart attack while waiting to know how much my passage would be.

Well, I got some good news! My vehicle combination was longer than expected, but I’d done the math wrong and it only cost me 193$ total for my fare. Imagine how pleased I was!

From the toll booth I was indicated to park in the Nanaimo lane and close my propane tanks. That done, it was about 8:20 and boarding for the 8:30 began.

A BC Ferries employee guided me to the correct boarding lane and it wasn’t a long wait before I was able to get onto the boat. Doing so was easy as the longer vehicles board at ground level in a straight line. I applied the parking brake, said goodbye to the catkids, grabbed my previously-packed bag of snacks and magazines, applied the parking brake to the toad, and headed up to the passenger deck. We were under way in minutes, pulling out at 8:35. I was impressed.

The ferry was huge and beautifully appointed, with lots of seating and a few restaurants and shops. I spent the two hours alternating between walking around, listening to a guy strum his guitar, and occasionally braving the wind, rain, and fog to stand outside on the deck.

I love being on the water and immensely enjoyed the trip from the BC mainland to Vancouver Island.

At about 10, an hour and a half after departing from Vancouver, drivers were instructed to return to their vehicles. I didn’t know how much time I had before having to leave, so I just unapplied the parking brakes and positioned myself to be ready to drive at a moment’s notice. Neelix came over to let me know he was fine, but Tabitha ignored me. I discovered an hour later that she was down with a bout of sea sickness. 🙂

It took only a few minutes before my lane started to debark. I followed the vehicles ahead of me out of the ferry terminal and then the signs announcing Campbell River. There was no convenient place to stop within Nanaimo, unless I wanted to drive around the parking lots of big box stores, so I just drove out of town, through rain, until I got to a pullout on the highway where I could take a bit of a breather.

Taking the ferry wound up being super easy and a much less stress-inducing experience than I would have expected. I think that in the spring I would like to take the ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert and from there the Yellowhead to the Cassiar.

From that pullout, it was an easy 100km stretch to Croft’s place. He and his wife helped me get squared away and then we had the requisite ‘getting to know you in person’ chat that stretched long into the evening. 🙂

Taking the whole trip into consideration, it was a good one, but that last little bit has made me glad that I can stay put for a while.

I’m looking forward to the next stage of my adventure.

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