Tofino Evening

I returned home, sopping wet, mid-afternoon changed into dry clothes, and had a late lunch as I uploaded my pictures. That done, it was still too early for dinner, but I was very sleepy, so I decided to head out and see if there were any shops open

Tofino is incredibly compact, so everything is within walking distance. ‘Downtown’ comprises about four square blocks. There is a street called ‘Main’ but the real main street is Campbell Street. I strolled down it until I came to the Mermaid Tales bookshop which had lights blazing. I spent about a half hour browsing the small selection of quality books. I really don’t like to spend full price on books, but having worked in the book business I know how tough it is for independents to compete against the big chains. So, I bought a reasonably priced novel before heading back out; the cashier (possibly the owner?) thanked me for supporting the shop.

I’d been told that the Dockside Pub, on the edge of town, as good nightly specials. I wish I’d known about them last night since they had an all you can eat salmon buffet for only $16. Tonight’s special was $6 burgers (veggie or beef) and $3.50 sleeves. A veggie burger sounded good and would have been a nice frugal dinner, but it sounded so mundane. I decided that I could afford one nice meal on this trip and splurged on the ‘caramelized bourbon salmon’, served with a basmati/wild rice mixture and a nice serving of grilled veggies for a very reasonable $17. Add the sleeve (which turned out to be a wonderful Okanagan pale ale) and a 20% tip and the meal came to an acceptable $27. The salmon was sooooo delicious. 🙂 After seeing the outrageously priced offerings of the other more visible restaurants I was especially grateful to find this place.

Coming home, I stopped at the Co-Op to get lunch fixings for tomorrow and a pint of ice cream for dessert (Ben & Jerry’s half-baked, for those curious about such things 😀 ).

I got in around 7 and planned to spend a couple of hours updating the blog, but I was interrupted by a German gal who had noticed my licence plate and wanted to know if I could tell her anything about Dawson. Much gabbing with her and another gal (the one who greeted me last night) ensued. 🙂

It’s now past eleven and quiet hour has started. Just about everyone has gone to bed but one of my roomies and me who are sitting in the atrium updating folks about our lives. I’m just about ready for a shower and then I’ll read a bit before retiring (all the bunks have a nightlight that doesn’t really illuminate the room).

Since I’ve exhausted my list of affordable things to do in winter in Tofino if you don’t surf, I will not be spending tomorrow in Tofino….

Hiking Near Tofino

Well, I can scratch “Hiking in Pacific Rim National Park” off my bucket list….

When I was studying natural resources in college, many of my teachers were from out west and they regaled us with their tales of life on the ‘wet coast.’ I heard so many stories about Pacific Rim National Park and it just sounded so exotic, with its redwood stands and and moss-draped trees. I couldn’t imagine a scenario that could take me here, other than my doing so after retirement. I made up this vague plan of maximizing my time out west by doing the West Coast Trail and then taking the Inside Passage up to Skagway to do the Chilkoot. How narrow my vision was back then!

While I’m still interested in doing the West Coast Trail, a grueling 75km trek over beaches and through rain forest, I’ve pretty much conceded that the Chilkoot will be the one and only major hike of my life. My knees haven’t recovered from those brutal 50km and have been worse than ever. Before the Chilkoot, I hadn’t had a blowout in exactly two years; I’ve had three since getting back. My current job, with its 33 hours a week of standing on a hard surface combined with a lot of crouching isn’t helping, nor is the damp weather that always seems to make the swelling worse. It’s only because I’m accustomed to this grating pain that I can do any hiking, walking, or running for pleasure. Soon as I get my Yukon healthcare squared away, I’ve conceded that I need to have a professional take a look and perhaps prescribe a brace or other supporting device.

All that to say that when I looked at the list of trail options for today, I focused on doing the ones that didn’t seem to have too much climbing or descending, but I did end up doing quite a bit of both.

I warmed up with the Bog Trail, an easy (and wheelchair accessible) loop on a boardwalk through a bog filled with stunted and twisted shorepine trees, some hundreds of years old. They looked like bonsai, making me feel very small. It was otherworldly and immensely enjoyable.

Next came the Nuu-chah-nulth Trail and its offshoot, the South Beach Trail. The Ncn is 2.5km one way; add about 400m to go to South Beach, too. There are interpretive signs which provide information about the local native culture. South Beach is an isolated, wind-swept cove with a pebble beach. I had intended to hike the Ncn both ways, but 99% of it is on boardwalks, which were impossibly slick. After a few near misses, I decided to just hike back via the road. By the time I got back to the car, I was soaked to the bone and very grateful there was some bread, cheese, peanuts, and a juicy apple waiting for me. 🙂

Next, I stopped at Long Beach, which is famous for being the longest stretch of surf swept sand on Vancouver Island’s west coast. Surfing here is quite dangerous because of rip currents.

My next stop wasn’t on my map, so I’m not sure what it’s all about other than it being called ‘Incinerator Rock.’ The view was spectacular!

Finally, I hiked the short, accessible, trail to the top of Radar Hill, which had been slated to be a radar installation during the Cold War. There is also a lovely tribute to those Canadians killed in the Korean War, erm ‘police action’ (*cough, cough*).

The Pacific Ocean looks nothing like the Atlantic. The water is more blue than grey, the sand more white than cream. I stood in the surf of several beaches today and was convinced that I could tell just by the sound of the surf which coast I was on.

The following picture gallery has more information on the trails I hiked today:

Notice the recent date; I was on my guard.

Notice the recent date; I was on my guard.

entering the Bog Trail

entering the Bog Trail

CIMG0092

CIMG0093

CIMG0094

CIMG0095

CIMG0096

CIMG0097

CIMG0098

CIMG0099

CIMG0100

this tree on the Bog Trail had an interesting, twisted, bark pattern.

this tree on the Bog Trail had an interesting, twisted, bark pattern.

close up of the bark pattern

close up of the bark pattern

I've never been to a place where tsunamis could happen! :)

I’ve never been to a place where tsunamis could happen! 🙂

war memorial at the South Beach trailhead

war memorial at the South Beach trailhead

access to beach blocked by logs

access to beach blocked by logs

access to

access to

Wickaninnish Beach

Wickaninnish Beach

CIMG0108

CIMG0109

CIMG0110

Wickaninnish Beach

Wickaninnish Beach

Wickaninnish beach

Wickaninnish beach

CIMG0113

CIMG0114

CIMG0115

Wickaninnish Beach

Wickaninnish Beach

Wickannish Trail

Wickannish Trail

Wickaninnish Beach

Wickaninnish Beach

totem pole at the begininning of the Nuu-chah-nulth trail

totem pole at the begininning of the Nuu-chah-nulth trail

CIMG0122

Wickaninnish beach

Wickaninnish beach

close up of the details on the totem pole

close up of the details on the totem pole

Nuu-chah-nulth trail

Nuu-chah-nulth trail

CIMG0126

boardwalk on the Nuu-chah-nulth trail

boardwalk on the Nuu-chah-nulth trail

blue water

blue water

blue water

blue water

blue water

blue water

Wickaninnish Beach

Wickaninnish Beach

Wickannish Beach

Wickannish Beach

boardwalk on the Nuu-chah-nulth trail

boardwalk on the Nuu-chah-nulth trail

foggy conditions

foggy conditions

steps down to South Beach

steps down to South Beach

caution sign at South Beach

caution sign at South Beach

South Beach

South Beach

boots on the beach

boots on the beach

South Beach

South Beach

South Beach

South Beach

South Beach

South Beach

boots in the surf

boots in the surf

South Beach

South Beach

South Beach

South Beach

stairs back up from South Beach

stairs back up from South Beach

CIMG0150

along the Nuu-chah-nulth trail

along the Nuu-chah-nulth trail

Nuu-chah-nulth trail

Nuu-chah-nulth trail

Nuu-chah-nulth trail

Nuu-chah-nulth trail

CIMG0154

old corduroy road

old corduroy road

I was a bit surprised by how deep this boggy section was. :)

I was a bit surprised by how deep this boggy section was. 🙂

slightly muddy boot

slightly muddy boot

CIMG0158

put down some branches and this would make a nice little cave :)

put down some branches and this would make a nice little cave 🙂

CIMG0160

mighty redwood

mighty redwood

Nuu-chah-nulth trail

Nuu-chah-nulth trail

Nuu-chah-nulth trail

Nuu-chah-nulth trail

CIMG0164

CIMG0165

CIMG0166

grafittied mushroom

Florencia Bay

Florencia Bay

Florencia Bay

Florencia Bay

I like this log that had a whole world sprouting out of its top.

I like this log that had a whole world sprouting out of its top.

CIMG0173

I looked like that stick figure quite a few times today :)

I looked like that stick figure quite a few times today 🙂

wreck of the 'Florencia'

wreck of the ‘Florencia’

CIMG0176

Florencia Bay (end of the Nuu-cha-nulth Trail)

Florencia Bay (end of the Nuu-cha-nulth Trail)

Long Beach

Long Beach

Long Beach

Long Beach

Island off of Long Beach

Island off of Long Beach

logs on Long Beach

logs on Long Beach

island off of Long Beach

island off of Long Beach

Long Beach

Long Beach

Long Beach

Long Beach

Long Beach

Long Beach

Long Beach

Long Beach

Long Beach

Long Beach

island off of Long Beac

island off of Long Beac

danger warning at Long Beach

danger warning at Long Beach

danger warning at Long Beach

danger warning at Long Beach

danger warning at Long Beach

danger warning at Long Beach

danger warning at Long Beach

danger warning at Long Beach

ooh, another tsunami sign

ooh, another tsunami sign

Incinerator Rock

Incinerator Rock

Incinerator Rock

Incinerator Rock

Incinerator Rock

Incinerator Rock

Incinerator Rock

Incinerator Rock

Incinerator Rock

Incinerator Rock

Incinerator Rock

Incinerator Rock

I couldn't get enough of the Tsunami signs :)

I couldn’t get enough of the Tsunami signs 🙂

striking redwood stand at the Schooner trailhead (apparently 'very steep')

striking redwood stand at the Schooner trailhead (apparently ‘very steep’)

CIMG0203

CIMG0204

Korean War monument

Korean War monument

Korean War monument

Korean War monument

view from the top of Radar Hill

view from the top of Radar Hill

view from the top of Radar Hill

view from the top of Radar Hill

view from the top of Radar Hill

view from the top of Radar Hill

view from the top of Radar Hill, with the Korean monument in sight

view from the top of Radar Hill, with the Korean monument in sight

I found it amusing that there are stairs leading to the top of the boulder where the foundation is, instead of having people clamber up it.

I found it amusing that there are stairs leading to the top of the boulder where the foundation is, instead of having people clamber up it.

radar installation foundation

radar installation foundation

radar installation foundation

radar installation foundation

view from the top of Radar Hill

view from the top of Radar Hill

view from the top of Radar Hill

view from the top of Radar Hill

steps up the granite slab to the foundation of the proposed radar installation.

steps up the granite slab to the foundation of the proposed radar installation.

summit of Radar Hill

summit of Radar Hill

A Tofino Morning

Quiet hour at Whaler’s on the Point starts at 11, so that’s when I shut off the computer and went up to have a shower. The showers here are very roomy and clean with good pressure. By the time I got back to the room, my two roomies were sound asleep, so I decided to turn in also. I can’t remember the last time I went to bed before midnight!

I had a pretty good night, even with one roomie snoring and there being a bright orange streetlight illuminating the room. I got up around quarter to nine and hiked down to the ‘Uncommon Bakery’ to get coffee since I hadn’t thought to bring my French press and own coffee supplies. A cup of joe was $1.75, and this with my bringing my own mug. Were my stay longer than a couple of days, I would have turned around and gone to the supermarket to get my own supplies.

virew from dorm room \’N\’, which is very similiar to the view from the atrium, directly below

Coffee in hand, I returned to the hostel to make breakfast and plan my day. There are numerous hiking options near Tofino, so I decided to spend my day exploring the trails. There weren’t really any other frugal options for today, with museums and shops being shut tight for the winter. I would have loved to take a cruise to Hot Springs Cove, but that’s something that my budget this week just can’t absorb. I’m just grateful to be in Tofino and getting a taste of the area.

Since all the hiking trails and beaches are located in Pacific Rim National Park, visitors require a day pass to use the facilities. At least, unlike Banff, you don’t need a pass to just drive through the park. A day pass is almost eight dollars, but the hostel rents them for just five dollars, so that was one more reduced expense.

There’s a small full-service ‘Co-Op’ grocery store in Tofino, so I stopped there to get snack materials, intending to return to the hostel for a late pasta lunch before going out for dinner at a restaurant on the edge of town offering good Monday night specials.

The sky was misting as I pulled out of Tofino and I knew that rain was forthcoming. I had brought my full rain gear, so I had no excuse not to get out into the rain forest and the beach even if spending the day by a hot fire with a good book sounded pretty appealing.

First stop, the Bog Trail…

Whaler’s On the Point Guesthouse

Since I had no intention of driving Miranda to Tofino, I needed to find a place to stay. Research on my own revealed a serious lack of affordable options, so I turned to Trip Advisor. There, several people told me to check out Whaler’s On the Point Guesthouse, a hostel that is part of the Hosteling International system. The rates of $32 per night for non-members made the thought of sleeping in a dorm with strangers again quite palatable. But then I discovered that they have an amazing deal until February 11th: stay three nights (paid in advance) for just $60, taxes included! Staying three nights is feasible since I have four day weekends. Perfect!

When I found out about the deal, I emailed with the dates that I had off to ask if there was still space for those periods of time. My email was never answered. I called this morning before taking off and the guy pretty much brushed me off, telling me to ‘just show up’ and not even telling me that the office is closed from 2 to 4pm (thankfully I’d seen that on the website). So, I didn’t expect a warm welcome here, until I met the gal from Germany who checked me in. She was super helpful and patiently answered all my questions.

I haven’t hosteled since, oh, Chicago in 1999 I believe, and have only limited hosteling experience in Canada. So, don’t believe me, just believe the reviews, when I say that this is probably the nicest youth hostel in this country. It’s built like a mountain lodge, with lots of wood and stone. There is a lounge with a fantastic view of Clayoquot Sound and a huge, clean kitchen filled with everything you could need to cook. Some hostel kitchens in my experience are best avoided, but this one was a joy to cook in. I had packed a cooler this morning with vegetables and pasta sauce that would have spoiled by Thursday, so I made a big pot of that for dinner and will have left overs for two more meals.

There are quite a few people here, and my four-room dorm is full, but it’s definitely more relaxed than I imagine it would be in the summer time. Travel in the off season has its advantages.

The Pacific Rim Highway

Today, I drove the Pacific Rim Highway, which starts just north of Nanaimo, all the way to its end in Tofino, where I’ll be for the next three days. More on that later. 🙂

By RV, the PRH would suck. It is a narrow, winding road with one steep downhill after another. In a subcompact with a manual transmission, however, it was like being on a rollercoaster. Wheeeeeee! 😀

While the distance between Campbell River and Tofino is small, just a couple hundred kilometres, the time is great. It took me over five hours since I made a few stops and often could drive no more than thirty or forty klicks an hour.

Donna suggested I visit Little Qualicum Falls, so that’s where I pulled over first and did a little bit of hiking. I didn’t dare stay long since parking for an hour was a dollar and the only coins I had on me totaled seventy cents.

My mother suggested my next stop, Cathedral Grove. This is the site of one of the last old growth Douglas Fir forests on the west coast. Some of these trees are more than 300 years old. Some are at least 800 years old.

This place had an ethereal quality. I stood there, craning to see the tops of this handful of trees that has survived logging, disease, storms, and fire and I wept. It was a profound experience. I challenge anyone to stop at Cathedral Grove and not be moved.

Next, I discovered Sproat Lake. It was so clear that, well, it brought to mind a quote from Forrest Gump:

… that mountain lake. It was so clear, it looked like there were two skies one on top of the other.

I pulled into Tofino around 2:30, but could not check into my accomodation until 4, so I parked and walked around a bit, covering the entire, tiny, community. It’s the off season, so very little was open. I dabbled with the idea of having a dinner out instead of cooking, but the only options within walking distance would have cost over $50, more than my budget could cover, especially when I know I could get an equivalent meal in Campbell River for half of that.

You’ll need to come back for the next post to find out where I’m staying. 🙂

stairs to the lower falls

stairs to the lower falls

lower falls

lower falls

lower falls

lower falls

footbridge over the lower falls

footbridge over the lower falls

path near the lower falls

path near the lower falls

lower falls

lower falls

lower falls

lower falls

footbridge seen from further up the falls

footbridge seen from further up the falls

lower falls

lower falls

lower falls (I like that pool of standing water)

lower falls (I like that pool of standing water)

picnic shelter

picnic shelter

CIMG0012

tundra-like vegetation

tundra-like vegetation

looking up towards the upper falls

looking up towards the upper falls

CIMG0015

CIMG0016

CIMG0017

CIMG0018

CIMG0019

a national tragedy...

a national tragedy…

CIMG0021

CIMG0022

CIMG0023

CIMG0024

western red cedar is in no way related to eastern white cedar

western red cedar is in no way related to eastern white cedar

CIMG0026

CIMG0027

CIMG0028

There was no Devil's Club out today, but I saw plenty of it on the Alaska side of the Chilkoot trail

There was no Devil’s Club out today, but I saw plenty of it on the Alaska side of the Chilkoot trail

CIMG0030

CIMG0031

CIMG0032

CIMG0033

CIMG0034

'the big tree' more than six feet wide and taller than the tower of Pisa!

‘the big tree’ more than six feet wide and taller than the tower of Pisa!

CIMG0037

CIMG0038

CIMG0039

a nurse log

a nurse log

CIMG0041

CIMG0042

CIMG0043

CIMG0044

CIMG0045

CIMG0046

CIMG0047

(unfortunate name for a disease)

(unfortunate name for a disease)

CIMG0049

CIMG0050

I like how they just took a chunk out of the tree instead of removing it entirely.

I like how they just took a chunk out of the tree instead of removing it entirely.

CIMG0054

CIMG0055

CIMG0056

CIMG0057

Cameron Lake

Cameron Lake

CIMG0059

CIMG0060

CIMG0061

CIMG0062

idiots in the 70's set fire to this magnificent, centuries old, tree

idiots in the 70’s set fire to this magnificent, centuries old, tree

CIMG0064

idiots in the 70's set fire to this magnificent, centuries old, tree

idiots in the 70’s set fire to this magnificent, centuries old, tree

CIMG0066

CIMG0067

CIMG0068

CIMG0069

CIMG0070

CIMG0071

CIMG0072

CIMG0073

CIMG0074

CIMG0075

this stunning lake teased me for several kilometres until I could find a place to pull over and take a few shots of it!

this stunning lake teased me for several kilometres until I could find a place to pull over and take a few shots of it!

CIMG0077

CIMG0078

CIMG0079

CIMG0080

CIMG0081

CIMG0082

Clayoquot Sound

Clayoquot Sound

Clayoquot Sound

Clayoquot Sound

church on Main Street

church on Main Street

Clayoquot Sound

Clayoquot Sound

I laughed so hard at this restaurant sign. My dad's name was Gary and he loved 'Canadian & Chinese Food' restaurants.

I laughed so hard at this restaurant sign. My dad’s name was Gary and he loved ‘Canadian & Chinese Food’ restaurants.