Fort Rodd Hill and Fisgard Lighthouse

Forts and Lighthouses are high on my interest list, so these two unconnected sites, Fort Rodd Hill and Fisgard Lighthouse at the same location were a perfect combination for me. We were able to stop here after going to French Beach since it was literally on the way home from there.

From the websites:

Fort Rodd Hill – a National Historic Site – is a coast artillery fort built in the late 1890s to defend Victoria and the Esquimalt Naval Base. The Fort includes three gun batteries, underground magazines, command posts, guardhouses, barracks and searchlight emplacements.

and

The first lighthouse on Canada’s west coast is still in operation! There hasn’t been a keeper here since the light was automated in 1929, but every year many thousands of visitors step inside a real 19th century light, and capture some of the feeling of ships wrecked and lives saved.

Built by the British in 1860, when Vancouver Island was not yet part of Canada, Fisgard’s red brick house and white tower has stood faithfully at the entrance to Esquimalt harbour. Once a beacon for the British Royal Navy’s Pacific Squadron, today Fisgard still marks home base for the Royal Canadian Navy.

The fort has two batteries and several outbuildings to explore, and Parks Canada was generous with accessibility to all the nooks and crannies. One building had me climbing a metal staircase to a widow’s walk to another staircase that descends to a room where there is a small exhibit. It was quite fun to get there and I was pretty impressed that I got up and down that staircase.

The lighthouse is one of the prettiest I have ever seen. They are working on making the inside a museum. There are a few exhibits and they are promising. I especially liked the stacks of ‘crates’ that had doors and drawers you can open to see what’s inside.

a beautiful map of the site

a beautiful map of the site

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married officer quarters

married officer quarters

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these crates have doors and drawers that open to reveal exhibits

these crates have doors and drawers that open to reveal exhibits

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a good view of the causeway built in the 1950's

a good view of the causeway built in the 1950’s

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I was about five feet from these geese

I was about five feet from these geese

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this 'man' startled me and I let out a very embarassing shriek!

this ‘man’ startled me and I let out a very embarassing shriek!

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this is the structure I climbed on the metal staircase (to the top of the short part!)

this is the structure I climbed on the metal staircase (to the top of the short part!)

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this building disguised as a boat house held a searchlight

this building disguised as a boat house held a searchlight

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Both locations were excellent and could provide at least a full half-day of entertainment if you bring a picnic. We were there for several hours.

Boots in the Juan de Fuca Strait

There is no logical or explainable reason for this, but one of my bucket list items was to one day touch the waters of the Juan de Fuca Strait, one of the most contested boundaries between the US and Canada. There is a mythical quality to such places as they provide truly clear borders. Here I am in Canada; there I am in the US. It doesn’t feel like political whim because there is a flowing fence between the two nations.

Even though you can see the Strait from Victoria, I decided to push west a bit to get a clearer shot of it, so Mrs. H suggested we drive to French Beach Provincial Park, where the cobblestone beach is unique. It was a perfect idea and I am once again grateful to have had a local guide.

rest area between Jordan River and French Beach

rest area between Jordan River and French Beach

rest area between Jordan River and French Beach

rest area between Jordan River and French Beach

rest area between Jordan River and French Beach

rest area between Jordan River and French Beach

walking down to French Beach

walking down to French Beach

skunk cabbage

skunk cabbage

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salmon berry flower

salmon berry flower

A Coastal Drive and the Ross Bay Cemetery

The final thing Mrs. H wanted to show me today was her old stomping grounds along the water front. It was a beautiful drive and exactly the sort of thing I miss out on when I don’t have a local guide. She also recommended I check out Ross Bay Cemetery, where many prominent Victorians are buried, including Emily Carr a writer and painter. I didn’t find that grave, but I did photograph quite a few interesting ones.

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Today was a rich, full day. Thanks, Mrs. H!

The White Heather Tea Room

Mrs. H wanted to round out the Butchart Garden excursion with an introduction to a traditional English high tea. Neil Z commented last night that he had an amazing high tea experience at the White Heather Tea Room. A quick check of other reviews convinced me to try it out. We ordered the ‘Big Muckle Giant Tea’ and were not disappointed!

I didn’t think to bring in my camera, so here is an idea of what our spread looked like, on three plates set on a tiered stand:

we didn’t have that huge plate of shortbread in the foreground 🙂

They have a large selection of teas, including Balmoral, their version of the Earl Grey and jasmine tea I discovered in Edmonton. Yuuuuum.

The homemade fare is worth describing in detail. Let’s see if I can remember it all. 🙂

Tier One (the bottom plate):

-scone (cranberry or apricot ginger) with Devonshire (sweet whipped) cream, raspberry preserves, and/or lemon curd;

-mini quiche with sundried tomatoes;

-a bite-sized cheese thing with roasted red peppers (yuuuuuuum);

-fruit slices (apple and orange).

Tier two (middle plate):

-a mini savory scone with the most amazing smoky sweet salmon I have ever had;

-rolled sandwiches (egg (which I didn’t eat); ham with relish; and cucumber with cream cheese on marbelized rye (yuuuuuuum)).

Tier three (top plate):

Dessert!

-an incredible cranberry brownie (that had a distinct coffee aftertaste);

-lemony blueberry pound cake with icing;

-a cheesy cracker thing with a bit of apple on top (one of my favourite things today);

-delicious crispy and buttery shortbread (I’ll admit to dipping it in Devonshire cream mixed with raspberry preserves!);

-a little tart filled with lemon curd and topped with Devonshire cream.

I wound up taking most of Mrs. H’s desserts home and will enjoy them with regular tea before bed. 🙂

It didn’t seem like much food until we started on it. The portions were small, but there were a lot of them.

High tea at the White Heather Tea Room is definitely an experience I will never forget. Thank you for the recommendation, Neil!

Butchart Gardens

Butchart Gardens is probably the best known Victoria attraction. They were planted in the early 20th century in what used to be a limestone quarry. While this sounded ‘nice’, I knew it would not be my best use of nearly $30, so I was going to skip it, but Mrs. H insisted on taking me there.

We had a wonderful time and I greatly enjoyed myself, more than I would have had I gone on my own since Mrs. H was able to tell  the names of a lot of the flowers.

My favourite gardens were the Japanese and the Sunken and my least favourite was the Italian. I like Japanese gardens because they feel very natural for all their formality, with soft ground covers, ponds with bridges, and rocky paths. The Sunken Garden was a formidable feat of horticulture; transforming the lunar landscape of a limestone query into a Technicolour world straight out of a fantasy. I don’t like Italian gardens because they are too stiff and formal, very hard with stone underfoot and statues all around.

These are the best pictures I took:

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Mediterranean garden

Mediterranean garden

Mediterranean garden

Mediterranean garden

angeliques (type of tulip)

angeliques (type of tulip)

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trillium (the provincial flower of Ontario)

trillium (the provincial flower of Ontario)

the snail fountain

the snail fountain

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forget-me-nots

forget-me-nots

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you walk along this dark path only to emerge...

you walk along this dark path only to emerge…

in a whole new world! I was *awed*!

in a whole new world! I was *awed*!

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camelias

camelias

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this chimney is all that is left of the cement factory that used to be on the property

this chimney is all that is left of the cement factory that used to be on the property

camelias

camelias

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pansies

pansies

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these are wire animals covered with moss

these are wire animals covered with moss

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checkered or snake lilies; the petals have a snakeskin pattern

checkered or snake lilies; the petals have a snakeskin pattern

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more moss-covered wire animals

more moss-covered wire animals

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hyacinthes

hyacinthes

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a moss-covered wire frog

a moss-covered wire frog

English daisies

English daisies

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seed field

seed field

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look closely; this yellow tulip has a red petal!

look closely; this yellow tulip has a red petal!

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the frog fountain

the frog fountain

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approaching the entrance to the Japanese garden

approaching the entrance to the Japanese garden

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sturgeon fountain

sturgeon fountain

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the two ravens were breaking off twigs to build their nest

the two ravens were breaking off twigs to build their nest

these lamps made me smile

these lamps made me smile

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moss-covered ground

moss-covered ground

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a wall of bamboo

a wall of bamboo

bamboo walkway

bamboo walkway

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Butchart Cove

Butchart Cove

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crane fountain

crane fountain

magnolias

magnolias

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another frog fountain, this time at the star pond

another frog fountain, this time at the star pond

star pond

star pond

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Mr. and Mrs. Mallard taking a nap in the star pond

Mr. and Mrs. Mallard taking a nap in the star pond

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entrance to the Italian garden

entrance to the Italian garden

Italian garden

Italian garden

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Visiting Butchart Gardens was a pleasant way to wile away a few hours, but it still feels way overpriced to me, impressed as I was by the way the old quarry was completely transformed.