I got some very sad news from Haven yesterday, that Charles and Caroline’s beloved dog Brutus had, after a period of decline, finally crossed Rainbow Bridge.
Brutus is the dog who really converted me to dogs and made me think that one day, in the right place and at the right time, I would want such a personable and loyal companion. He was such a sweet soul and a grumpy old boy. I knew that when I cuddled him for the last time before leaving in April that it would be the last time. I’m glad that we got that final week together. It was so very special to get up in the morning and sit by the fire with him and Charles and have my coffee.
Here is Brutus in August 2014, when he was still in his prime.
Brutus, you were well loved and will be sorely missed. Thank you for making our lives a little brighter.
Charles and Caroline, I’m sending hugs across the vast distance that separates us. Far in body, close in spirit. Love you both.
So far this month, I’m starting to settle into a more “normal” routine. I’ve figured how much I need to work to do better than just scrape by and with decent-paying contracts and working seven days a week, it’s making for pretty short days (about five to six hours of actual typing, plus whatever time I put in for client communications and bookkeeping).
In 2018, I plan to lengthen my work days, but start taking my weekends off, just one a month at first and then moving to taking all of them by the end of the year so that I’m effectively only working three weeks a month. It’s a big step, but most of my current clients don’t work weekends and I’m getting fewer and fewer projects for Saturdays and Sundays. I’m much better off working harder Monday through Friday and saving weekends for the truly special projects that pay well.
So it’s making for relaxed days now compared to June. I get up when I’m ready, sometime between 6:30 and 8:30. Puppy gets his breakfast and play time, I have coffee, and I get to work between 7:00 and 9:00. Even with a lunch break, I can clock out between 4:00 and 6:00. My evenings vary depending on how much I have to cook and if it’s raining. But I usually have time for a good meal, a swim, a play session with puppy, outdoor chores like weeding, and then something on Netflix, the length of which depends on the time I’m done. I wind down with a bit of reading and am usually asleep between 10:00 and 12:00.
What I’m doing is getting used to more concentrated work sessions, something I’ve struggled with over the years, so that I have longer chunks of free time. While it’s worked for me in the last few years to stretch out the work day and take regular small breaks to deal with chores and to run errands, I know that won’t work in Mérida. I’m going to want time in the morning for a walk to get tacos for breakfast. Evenings might include an arts performance like theatre or the opera or some sort of lesson. And the weekends hold so much potential — getaway trips, volunteering, painting, or even just wiling away an afternoon with a dark beer and a good book.
That’s what I was keeping in mind this afternoon when I decided to clock out really early and head to Mérida. I knew I wouldn’t have time during the week. Now that I’ve got some spending money again (thank you, June!), I’m probably going to start going to Mérida more often than I have simply because I never get everything at once. It’s really hard to get all my errands done in one trip here compared to, say, doing a Moose Jaw run for a lot of reasons — traffic, slow service, the heat, having to hunt down things, etc. It would be easier to shop online, but that won’t be possible till I live in the city and then, I won’t need to because going out won’t be a huge production anymore.
At any rate, I got to Mérida around 3:00 (Sunday isn’t a special day here and things are open very late!) and parked at the Gran Plaza, then went in to get lunch at its food court, which was packed since I actually managed to want food at a normal Mexican meal time for once. I was planning on sushi, but a savvy businessman at a Yucatecan stand called me offer to try some samples. Get this: he’s a Mexican-born Canadian citizen from Edmonton and he’s only here to help his family launch their restaurant. We had such a laugh at practically being neighbours! He hates it here because of the heat and dreams of going home to the snow!
Everything I sampled was wonderful and I was almost full when I was done, but I still put in an order for some salbutes, deep fried pockets of tortillas with very specific toppings — shredded chicken or turkey, lettuce, tomato, pickled onion, and sliced avocado. I also requested something else, but before I get into that, I want to say that I had a heart attack when I went to pay the $63 I owed for lunch and my wallet wasn’t in my purse! I apologised and ran down to my truck where, thankfully, the wallet was on the passenger seat. I think it’s time to replace my beloved tote bag with something with a zip top. 🙁
At any rate, my lunch was waiting when I got back. I had a bit of work to find a table, but finally did. This is not the most prettily staged meal, but anyway:
That bowl contains hard boiled eggs (he forgot that I told him to leave them out) with turkey parts cooked in an oily black sauce. This is called “relleno negro” (black filling/stuffing) and it is the most wonderful thing in Yucatán cuisine. Imagine the most beautiful performance of Leonard Cohen’s “Halleluja” that you have ever heard — that’s what relleno negro tastes like to me. I’ve never had it like this, whole turkey parts bathed in sauce, only as shredded and quite dry on a tortilla, and it was all I could do not to drink the contents of the bowl. But I know from last year that greasy Yucatán cuisine does not agree with me in any sort of major quantity, so I resisted.
Yucatán cuisine is so different from what I’m used to back in the northwest. The staples here are different (more sour orange than lime, in my experience), it doesn’t have as many veggies, and the food tends not to be spicy unless you add some very strong habanero-based sauces. It’s not at all what I think of when I think of “Mexican” food and makes me eager to discover other regional cuisines!
So lunch ended up being so yummy I don’t care that I didn’t get sushi. 🙂
Of course, I wanted a little something sweet after because I’m pretty sure I’m addicted to ice cream, and, thankfully, there was an abundance of choice.
I saw this video a little while ago on a travel blog and thought, “I’d like to try that some day!”
Today was the day! There’s a rolled ice cream stand at the Gran Plaza!
I requested peach, strawberry, and pineapple in mine. The boy working at the stand did all the work, including chopping the fruit, manually, but the gal blitzed mine first with a hand blender. I wish she had done it for a second less than she did because I didn’t really have any fruit chunks. I thought the results were quite pretty and the show had made the $45 worth it, so I was delighted when I was told I could add three toppings at no extra cost! I went with what is called a marzipan-style peanut candy that’s very popular, Oreos, and shredded coconut.
To be honest, I found the ice cream a bit bland. I think it might work better with stronger-flavoured fruits or with some cookies mixed into the cream. I’d do it again if I want a lighter frozen treat (this was so perfect after my heavy lunch), but not if I want “real” ice cream.
I ran a couple more errands in Gran Plaza and then headed to the Office Max a short ways south, stopping at an Oxxo to top up my phone. I had a long list for Office Max and got most of the items. It infinitely amused me for some reason that Spanish decided to add an accent to an English word and call it a day:
The word “colgantes” is reminding me of the linguistic process I’ve been making in the last few weeks. It is absolutely astonishing. It stands to reason that the more words I know, the fewer new ones I need to pick up and so linguistic acquisition is proving to be exponential. I’m reading a young adult novel, a reading level that is good for me because the stories aren’t too childish, but the vocabulary is basic and limited, and I’m really seeing phrases I’ve struggled with for years finally sink in. I mean, really basic things like sin embargo (however or nevertheless), demás (the rest), and tampoco (neither).
I’ve been working on a particular past tense and that’s what they’re using in the book so I’m getting comfortable seeing and hearing it even if I haven’t started using it. And I’m catching myself daily using words I didn’t realise I had acquired, like when I said, “Puedo traerte a casa” (I can bring you home) to my cleaner to the other day, the first time I’ve ever used traer although I’ve understood it now for a bit. And colgante (hanging or pendant) is one of the words that’s been everywhere lately so I’m sure it won’t be long before I utter it and make it mine.
I still have so many stumbles and moments where I’m tongue tied or that people sound like the adults in Charlie Brown, but I’m starting to believe that I’m going to master Spanish well enough to be able to do my master’s degree in it. And with that, I just realised that I need to take Spanish courses at university — not as as second language, but as a first one. I’ll have to go speak with an advisor at a university once I’m settled this fall and see what s/he suggests I take to get me on track to taking advanced university courses in Spanish. With public university and cost of living here being so inexpensive, the idea of getting a master’s (and maybe even Ph.D.) just for the fun of it seems so much more realistic than it did in Canada. But I digress immensely.
It was getting awfully close to Puppy’s supper time when I made it back to my truck so I only made a quick dash into “Mega,” mostly to pick up wine and beer. Which is where we get to the title of this post. I got to the till around 5:30 and the cashier took my booze, put it on the counter behind me, and said, “Liquor sales close at 5:00 on Sundays.” I took that as a custom I wasn’t aware of and was disappointed more than surprised, but the Mexican guy in line behind me was shocked. He argued that there was no signage to that effect and that I should be allowed my booze. I appreciated the effort, but he lost that argument.
I could have probably stopped at a Six store en route to pick up a six-pack, but by the time I got in my truck, I was ready to get home. I got in and gave Puppy his supper. Then, I went to get his Kong to partially fill it with peanut butter for his dessert (he’s a little underweight so he’s getting extra rations), but he snatched the Kong away from me, eying me defiantly. I shrugged and said to him, “It’s your loss. I was going to give you a treat.”
His eyes went round and he dropped the Kong and kicked it over to me.
I think that proves that my dog understands English…
I’ll leave you with a shot of tonight’s full moon:
My cleaning guy was coming today and I somehow managed to have only an easy job to do that I could mostly complete in the morning and then finish up after returning from a jaunt to Mérida. This way, I could leave him free to clean without me being in the way. What luxury to be able to go have fun while someone else did my deep cleaning! 🙂
I left around 11:00 and headed to the Galerias (formerly referred to as Liverpool, right next to Costco) to catch a 12:15 showing of Wonder Woman. I had my work cut out for me finding an English (Spanish subtitled) showing at a convenient location and good time, but it must have been meant to be because this was absolutely perfect. The film would end around 2:45, with a 40-minute drive waiting for me after, getting me home around 3:40. I had to be home by about 3:30-3:45 to let my cleaner out of the yard (no extra keys to leave him) and to finish my job, so, really, impeccable timing.
So I arrived in town around 11:40 and wanted to have lunch. I wonder how much longer I’ll need to live in Mexico to remember that noonish is a terrible time to be hungry in this country? The only restaurant at the food court that was up and running and could serve me food in time to make my movie was a Carl’s Jr. hamburger stand, so I had a burger again. I have to say that they do a really nice one with real cheese and plenty of veggies. I especially liked their fries, which I got since I didn’t think I had time to wait for onion rings, and they were fresh cut with skin on them. So a pretty good meal even if I would have chosen tacos or Chinese if everything had been open. There is a sushi joint that I need to check out next time, but they only opened at one.
The movie was surprisingly wonderful and left me utterly entranced for its very long run time. I wasn’t particularly impressed by Batman vs. Superman, which I saw in Mazatlán last April, but this one absolutely worked for me. I still can’t get over the fact that a first run matinée was just $39!
The movie ended at 2:38 and I decided I had time to grab an ice cream. I asked for a single and was given two big scoops! Totally worth my $20!
Little did I know the surprise that awaited me as I headed towards the exit of the mall nearest my truck…
It was raining. And I mean, RAINING. Apocalypse levels of rain. Enough rain that Méridians were taking videos!
I finished my treat and then decided that the rain wasn’t getting any better so I might as well make a run for my truck. I was still soaked when I got there. I immediately cancelled my plan to pick up a pizza at Costco unless I could get a parking spot right by the door, which I was unable to (not even an “illegal” one by the curb). So that was a bummer as I know my cleaner would have been happy with a slice to take home with him. Maybe next time.
It was very slow going home because of the amount of rain on the roadway making it very easy to start hydroplaning. Strangely enough, it rains more in Mérida than it does in Progreso, so it lightened up a bit the further north I drove. By the time I got to my part of Chelem, it was just drizzling and our sandy roads were almost dry.
My cleaner was just finishing up my suite and hadn’t started on the part of the terrace that isn’t as open to the elements. I figured that he’d thought I’d be super late and so he had taken a long lunch. I went to work and when I was done, I was shocked that it was almost 4:30 and he was still working. So I checked in and it turned out that he’d put on music and was having so much fun he’d lost track of time! Of course, I compensated him for his accidental overtime. I also offered to drive him home and have him come back tomorrow to get his moped, but he declined.
It was then time to put together Puppy’s supper. He gets fed in his Kong now to stretch out his meal times and keep him occupied. He loves it and I’m having fun coming up with meals for him that go beyond just his kibble and wet food. I don’t consider this extra work at all. I mean, it is more work that just pouring out dry food, but he’s so appreciative that it’s totally worth it. I am amused that the first few days, I had trouble finding his Kong at his next meal and now he knows to drop it by the kitchen door when he’s done! Dogs really are clever.
Now, to figure out my dinner since I didn’t come home with pizza. I have some leftover broccoli soup that I’d rather keep for my lunch tomorrow, so maybe some pasta? I think I need a cook… 😀 But, hey, it’s a goal that I could work towards here in Mexico that couldn’t even be a dream in Canada!
It’s been a very good Hump Day here in the Yucatán. Back to the old grind tomorrow, but this is turning out to be a much slower week than was last week, a rather welcome breather.
Today is the 150th anniversary of Canadian Confederation. I will confess to having few maudlin or particularly patriotic feelings for the country I left behind. I went as far as I could there and I know my future is brighter outside of its borders.
But I am infinitely grateful to have visited ten provinces; two territories; eleven capital cities; and hundreds of cities, towns, villages, and hamlets from Charlottetown to Tofino, Chatham to Tuktoyaktuk.
I feel blessed to have experienced so many of its climates, from scorching summers in Dawson City to frigid winters on the border of Quebec and Labrador, although perhaps not the unrelenting gloom of the Wet Coast, but most certainly the glorious Prairie summers.
I have seen tall peaks; flat plains; rolling hills; desert; expanses of granite; great black pine forests; and more ocean coastline than one can imagine as I have swam or waded in the Arctic, Atlantic, and Pacific Oceans.
I’ve called four provinces and one territory home, consider myself a québécoise in happy exile, love and miss my piece of Saskatchewan more than anyone can imagine, still have the Klondike in my bones, and I remember every sunset I saw driving up the 105 from the junction of the 366 in La Pêche on my evening commute.
I hope I can be away long enough this time to forget the infuriating things that made me leave and be left with only memories of landscapes that made me weep with awe.
Like the Saskatchewan badlands.
View of the Big Muddy Badlands from the top of Castle Butte
Google says I did 871KM, but my odometre says 830KM.
Okay, I know I have A LOT to catch up on. What I’ve concluded from the last week is that it is no longer possible for me to be “semi-online.” My 10 months in Europe have made me accustomed to living in the 21st century and I’m lost without access to Siri and the ability to be able to do what needs doing online when I need to do it. It has nothing to do with not being able to unplug, which I absolutely can do, just not in the context of trying to plan an international move! I was so discombobulated and disorganised this past week. 🙁
I am going to try do proper backdated posts about the myriads of things I had to do to prepare to leave this morning, but here’s the short of it:
-I returned to Haven late last Tuesday night, thanks to my neighbours C&C picking me up in Regina;
-I stayed with C&C so that I could more easily pack up (never mind that Haven had no power, water, or Internet). They have tons of room and a similar routine to me so this worked out super well;
-Caroline kept me well fuelled with one delicious meal after another. Here’s the brunch she made for the two of us on Sunday, what she calls an “apple pancake,” but which I find is more like an apple upside down cake even if the apples end up floating to the top:
-I had some work done on Moya to ready her for her final epic voyage. Among the things I tasked my mechanic to resolve is why my overhead light stays on, requiring me to pull the fuse when I park lest I drain the battery. That wound up being harder to diagnose than expected, so he told me to keep pulling the fuse like I’ve been doing and gave me this to make it easier:
car fuse puller
I was suitably amused by his solution, especially since he didn’t charge me for poking around;
-I was able to renew my driver’s license, but it didn’t come before I left so now I have to figure out how to get it to Mexico (my host in Chelem suggested I have it sent to her in Ontario for her bring it down in the fall rather than have it couriered to Mexico);
-I got my property tax assessment and went to town ready to pick a fight because I thought that the amount was a mistake at best or a cash grab at worst. Turned out that the number was real and reflects the current market. So Haven is now valued at 5.35 times what it was valued the last couple of years and I’ve been assured I will only get a token property tax increase. Looks like the expected real estate boom has started!!!
-The traitorous weather was not conducive to packing:
It was freezing in Miranda and I was not able to give her a cleaning before taking off again. By the way, I had some serious mouse damage (my scarf drawer was decimated), so that’s another reason I couldn’t have stayed in Miranda since she needed serious disinfecting.;
-All the Tetris I played as a kid paid off. There isn’t an ounce of space left in the truck:
Here’s how I loaded the cab, filling it with boxes…
And then stuffing soft items into the gaps:
I got about 95% of my most prized possessions into the truck! I’m not that disappointed since I’m headed into a humid climate and so it doesn’t make sense to bring all my journals, photo albums, and the rest of the books into that climate until I fully commit to it. I am going to have to fully unpack when I get to Chelem otherwise I risk packed items moulding over the summer.
So today was departure day. I’d hoped to leave yesterday, but that was a moving target and I was fine with leaving as late as Friday. For one thing, I desperately wanted one day before departure where I could just stop to sit for a moment and think about anything I might have forgotten. I managed to get the afternoon and evening off.
Caroline made her amazing homemade pizza (with homemade venison salami!) for dinner so I could have leftovers for my drive today! After dinner, she and I sat down at her computer so I could show her a few things. She has moved to a Mac and has had basically no learning curve. I’m so proud of her and happy that she now has a computer that works well so we can keep in touch better. It’ll also be so much easier to help her troubleshoot issues, although based on an email she sent me today, I think she’ll be able to handle many of her own issues. We then played cards, visited a bit with my immediate neighbours K&T, and I ended up going to bed way, way, way, way too late, well past midnight.
I wanted to be up at 6:30, but was, of course, awake at 5:00. I got up around 6:15 and was delighted to find Charles up and the coffee already perking. The border didn’t open till 8:00 and I had less than an hour drive there, so I sat for a bit before dressing and putting the last of my bags in the truck, as well as mug of coffee for the road.
Goodbyes are always difficult, but we all three vowed to see one another again in two years in Mexico!!!
Standing by the truck, looking east. Goodbye, Canada, it’s been good knowing you, but I’m heading somewhere new…
I made a pit stop in Coronach and got to the border at 8:30. Based on my experience recently at airports, I made the decision to cross while wearing a wig rather than a headscarf. The atmosphere at the crossing was very different than it was under the Obama years, much more no nonsense than conversational and friendly. For example, I was greeted with “Passport?” rather than, “Hi! How are you today?” I was asked the usual questions about where I was going, where I live, did I have any ATF, etc. All seemed to be going well, but soon as the officer opened the rear of the truck, he asked me to step outside and go into the waiting room. There, he had me fill out a customs form. As I did so, I overheard him say to someone, “This one is going to take a while.”
Well, at least they weren’t making me unpack the truck, but, dang, I’d forgotten my coffee! When the officer came back after just a few minutes to get my declaration, I asked if I could get the coffee and he said, “We’ll be done in a few minutes.”
Curious.
Sure enough, he had me back in the truck a minute later, at most 12 minutes from the time I’d started the interview! The last thing he said to me was, “You wrote a book?” which tells me that they have Rae as an alias on file for me, that he Googled me, and that whatever he found told him that I likely was not carrying contraband or otherwise a threat (by the way, I had provided him an inventory of what I have in the truck).
One of the questions I was asked was how I plan to support myself in Mexico and he didn’t seem happy with my answer that I was going to work there for myself and that Mexico was satisfied with that. My answer should have been, “That’s what made it possible to get my residency visa.” He also asked me if I’m keeping a Canadian bank account and it was obvious that he liked my answer that I am not cutting ties with Canada at this time.
So it was another absolutely uneventful and easy, it not particularly welcoming, entry into the US. I pointed Moya south, fuelled up in Scobey, then continued south towards Circle, where I made another pit stop, before pulling into a Wendy’s in Miles City at 12:30 to get some lunch (most of the pizza had been breakfast, with a bit left for an afternoon snack!), use their WiFi, and find a room for the night. The greeting there was so friendly and a reminder of why I’ve so enjoyed my travels to the US in the past.
After a bit of research, I decided to push on to Douglas, Wyoming, where I would land around 6:00. That was a much longer day than I wanted to do, but there aren’t a lot of cities in that part of Wyoming so I would either stop too late or too early. I’m staying with one of you lovely readers just south of Denver tomorrow and will have a relatively short (400KM) day from Douglas, so I can get a late start.
I just love this corner of the US, just rolling hills not unlike home. It was a very isolated drive, of course. I stopped in Broadus for fuel and coffee and then drove straight to Douglas, with only one pit stop at a rest area about 45 minutes from my destination. After weeks of GREY, it was amazing to get blue sky the deeper I got into Wyoming. There was a brief thundershower right before Douglas, but it cleared quickly.
The hotel rate I was quoted was 79USD. I asked if they had an “Exhausted Canadian driving to Mexico” rate and… got a 14USD discount. WOW! That covered some takeout and a beer for dinner. The liquor store is right next to the hotel and the lady there was super helpful and friendly in showing me what they had for single beers. Interestingly, I no longer get carded when I buy booze in the US so I must be starting to look my age at last… 🙂
I’m sure there should be more to this already novel-length post, but I’m ready to drop. Hopefully, I’m back to a more regular posting schedule. April really has been sheer madness. But I’m on my way!
I learned about this song just before heading down to Mexico for the first time. It no longer applies to me, but I love the tune. So here’s an earworm for you. 🙂
