Paseo Túnel de Minería, Calle Constitución, and Barrio de Analco, Durango

After the city museum, I crossed the street to enter the Paseo Túnel de Minería, a mining tunnel reproduction and museum.

Here’s one of many tourist maps you can find around Centro:

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Tunnel entrance elevator at Plaza de armas:

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It’s quite a ways down!

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I was once again told that the museum is temporarily closed and that there is instead an exhibit on child exploitation and sex trafficking. I said I still wanted to go in and they let me go down the stairs. But at the bottom, they had an English speaker (sort of — I think my Spanish was better!) make sure I really did understand what I was getting into.

The special exhibit has you start at the end. Most of the mining information stuff has been blocked off, but you can still get some of the info. Really, I wanted to do this just for the tunnel itself, so there was plenty there to make the journey worthwhile.

The tunnel was actually pretty spooky!

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There were information panels and displays all along it. Very disturbing information, of course, but informational.

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You can see here how they covered up some of the mining stuff:

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Near the end, there, there was a very powerful animated film about a young girl getting recruited through her Facebook account. I was very lucky in the early days of the Internet to never get into a situation like this! After the film, there was a man handing out information on resources for women and children caught in a bad situation and how witnesses can report things.

This wasn’t a fun part of the day at all, but I came out knowing that Mexico is working to protect the rights and liberties of its women and children, and that is something that was well worth knowing.

I came back above ground at Plaza de armas, so I decided to stroll down the pedestrian Calle Constitución to go check out the oldest neighbourhood in Durango, Barrio de Analco.

I couldn’t get enough of this building at the corner of Constitución and 5 de febrero! Love the flying buttresses!

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And the church bell!

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This bit of Calle Constitución is modeled after the Hollywood Walk of Fame, with stars for all the famous actors who have filmed something in Durango. It is a lot more attractive and cleaner than the original walk of fame. 🙂

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Finally, an actor I really like!

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There was a craft market as well as a man selling tacos from a cart. They smelled divine…

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Ah… the best actor of all time. So happy to see his name here:

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There was a bit of a park at the end of the street:

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And a pedestrian overpass that no one was using!

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The main street in the Barrio de Analco was lined with well preserved old houses, a real feast for the eyes:

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But get off the main road, and you pretty much have slum, not unlike in Maz’s own Centro:

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It still has its own charm!

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Coming back to Constitución, I thought that it would be nice to have that apartment upstairs!

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The crowd around the taco guy had dissipated a bit, so I got in line! I just wanted a snack since I had big plans for lunch. But it was just past noon (I swear time stood still in Durango) and I had a long walk to lunch, so sustenance was required! $8 for a carne asada (BBQed beef) taco, with lots of different salsas and toppings, including chopped cabbage. I liked that the seller wore a face mask and changed his gloves to handle money. I eat from carts all the time in Maz and have never been ill, but sometimes find the hygiene standards could be a bit better.

I was just about to take my first bite when a man said in perfect, but heavily accented English, “Oh, you didn’t get to Mexico yesterday!”

I turned to him, a little bewildered, and asked him what he meant. “Number one, you’re eating from a cart. Number two, you just ordered; didn’t care what he was selling. Number three, you just started piling on toppings without examining anything and when we warned you that the green stuff was spicy, you added more!”

We had a chat as I ate my very delicious taco and he asked why I picked that cart, only because it was, in his opinion, the best tacos in that part of Durango! “Easy,” I told him. “It’s the one that had the biggest crowd!”

Sated, I headed back towards 20 de noviembre for the very long walk to the Emir restaurant. I was surprised to pass a truck that had a parking ticket!

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The restaurant was very easy to find, just well past the Soriana and 5KM from my hotel according to Siri (I doubt it was really that much…). Emir is an ‘Arabic’ restaurant, the only one in Durango. Went for their mysterious (no description) ‘Lebanese platter’ (not quibbling over the fact that the Lebanese are not Arabs). Some time later, this arrived:

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Growing up in the Montreal-Ottawa corridor with its huge Lebanese population, I’m very familiar with the cuisine and disappointed by attempts made to recreate it away from that region. Oh, I sometimes scratch the itch, but I really need to go back east to reach full satisfaction. So imagine my surprise that this was by far the best, never mind most satisfying, Lebanese spread I’ve had outside of Montreal-Ottawa! In Durango, Mexico! My only disappointment was that the fried ball that looks like an American football wasn’t a falafel (but it was still delicious). I was amazed by my willpower when I turned down more pita, but caved at the offer of baklava and Turkish coffee! This was a meal I will remember for a very, very, very long time. Total cost was something like a mere $220 with the tip.

The walk back to the hotel was rather necessary and I had a nap when I got there, but that was mostly because I didn’t get much sleep the night before because of all that coffee!

My day was far, far from done!

Museo de la Ciudad 450, Durango

The Museo de la Ciudad 450 was on the way to the mining tunnel entrance/exit, so that was my next stop. The entrance was $22 for 17 rooms full of exhibits!

Views of 20 de noviembre and Durango from the upstairs mezzanine:

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Like a lot of colonial architecture in Mexico (I’m told), this building was constructed around a central courtyard. Unlike the courtyards at my hotel, this one was still open to the elements!

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I was reminded that this city was founded in 1563! I thought that we had old cities in Canada, but Durango is 45 years older than Quebec City!

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In the early days of the 17th century, Durango had 50 Spanish residents as well as 80 negroes and mulattos to serve them.

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Feast your eyes on more columns and arches:

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I think they have a way of covering the courtyard if they need to:

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Exquisite tiling:

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Looking down to 20 de noviembre:

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And down again. Notice the Oxxo also has nice digs!

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This traditional attire is quite my style. 🙂

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I wouldn’t mind a tub like this! This is actually a movie prop.

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Durango’s surroundings offer a lot of different terrains, and so the city has been used for decades for filming locations. A lot of big name U.S. and Mexican movies were filmed here, but that all ground to a halt as the drug war sank its teeth into Durango. No big Hollywood project was filmed in Durango from 2008 until Hollywood came back in 2014 to film Texas Rising, a mini-series about the creation of the Texas Rangers. Durango is happy to be entering its second golden age of filmmaking!

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I found another courtyard in the museum, this one with access from the street for parking:

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I would love a bedroom with one of these windows!

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The final exhibit was about the birds of Durango, with all the pictures drawn by hand by an American lady. They were works of art and there was everything from ducks to birds of prey to song birds.

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Museo de Arqueología de Durango Ganot-Peschard

Durango gets going late, with no attractions being open before 10:00, so I had a lazy morning Friday. Rather a shame I’m no longer a going out for breakfast kind of person.

My first stop of the day was the Museo de Arqueología de Durango Ganot-Peschard on Zaragoza. Entry was just $10. Like with all the museums and attractions that I visited in Durango, you need some Spanish to really get the most out of your experience because there is usually very little, if any, English signage.

The museum is, of course, housed in a beautiful building. I took this picture to remember the orange walls and arches, but the mural was interesting, too, as it is a topographic cross section showing where Durango is in relation to other communities, as well as sea level. It really showed me how far up I climbed the day before!

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This exhibit was unique! How many times have I seen exhibits about stone tools? Too many to count. How many times have I seen an actual demonstration of how the tools were held? This was the first!

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I liked how the pottery was presented in these columns:

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The skulls were fascinating! They were all intentionally deformed in childhood.

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This one really spoke to me for some reason and reminded me that s/he was a person once upon a time.

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I wish my Isla house had walls this colour!

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At the very end of the museum is my favourite bit, the excavation. I’ve only ever seen something like this once, at Pointe-à-Callière in Old Montreal. This was full of steep staircases and tight turns, very fun!

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Sabertooth tiger skull:

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Super narrow and short passageway. Duck!

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They put in some glass to mimic a sunset above; nice detail.

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I already have the yellow walls in Miranda. Possible to put dark wood beams on an RV ceiling?

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I had to go back to the skulls. It’s no wonder some folks thought these skulls belonged to aliens!

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I just love the Aztatlán pottery:

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I had a chat on the way out with the museum curator, clumsily raving about the skulls and the excavation exhibit, and she had me painstakingly write out a brief review in Spanish for their guestbook!

From the museum, I went around the block to 5 de febrero and then on to the Plaza de arms to do the mining tunnel museum, but I was accosted by a security guard who, in very rapid Spanish that I would not know until sometime later I actually understood (mostly) informed me that the entrance was now an exit because they were having a special exhibit on the sex trade and child trafficking. That’s really what I got, but, in all honesty, I was understanding the words but not sure I was actually getting what was said. So it would be gratifying sometime later to have my doubts confirmed! We will return to the tunnel.

Getting My Bearings in Durango

By the time I was settled into my hotel room, it was about 3:00 p.m. on Thursday. I decided to go out and get my bearings. That was easy to do since Durango’s Centro is laid out in a perfect grid pattern and all streets are well marked. There are also frequent maps with a ‘you are here and points of interest are here, here, and here’ being noted, as well as directional signage on all the main street corners (Plaza de armas is that way, Walk of Fame is this way, turn here for the Francisco Villa museum, etc.).

Within minutes, I knew that Durango was much more tourist friendly and accessible than Maz is and that Maz’s failures in that regard are not a reflection of Mexico, but of the Maz city planners. My Mexican education continues!

Walking a few blocks up 20 de noviembre, I found the main basilica, which is in front of Plaza de armas. I’ll just get it out right here that the architecture in Durango is gorgeous. This is a very, very, very old city (founded in 1563!!!) and the architecture reflects that, with a lot of Baroque influence.

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A block from the Plaza de armas, I spotted the Museo de la ciudad 450 (city museum), something that I knew was on my ‘must see’ list:

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I found the Mercado Gómez Palacio a few blocks later,, a bewildering and disorganized warren of stalls! Rather fun and disorienting to poke through, but I have to say that it’ll make me better appreciate Maz’s mercado! I picked up a new apron (something that was on my list to buy in Maz, so why not make it a souvenir?!). Very inexpensive, only $85.

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More oggling of architecture happened:

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I love how colourful Mexico is. I want this pink washing machine in my house in Mérida when I get there!

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And another exquisite building!

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Tacos al pastor!

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The fabric store (Parisina) is housed in not-so-shabby digs!

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Check out the McDonald’s!

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Back at Plaza de armas, I was dumbfounded to discover that this rotunda holds a tourist information bureau! I got tons of info as well as several maps. Why doesn’t Maz have anything like this?!

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Corner of Constitución and 5 de febrero:

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Vancouver Donuts on 5 de febrero!

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This is a palace that holds several cafés as well as the Francisco (Pancho) Villa Museum:

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A cappuccino sounds good… But it’s late. Maybe another time.

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I passed the Museo de arqueología (archeology) on the way back to my hotel (again, it’s right in front of the Palacio parking where Moya was staying). I was tempted to go in, but decided to save it for the next day.

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Back on 20 de noviembre on the corner of Zaragoza looking towards my hotel:

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Church across the street from my hotel:

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I love Mexican alleyways!

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Another not too ugly building!

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On the street behind my hotel, I found a used book store and couldn’t resist going in. Oh, that universal smell of old paper! I browsed a bit and then asked if they had Mexican poetry books. The owner, who must have been 100 years old, pulled out a gorgeous and huge leather-bound tome. It was only $150, but way too massive, so I asked if he had something smaller and less expensive. Without hesitating, he pulled out a slim anthology of modern Mexican poetry, for just $75. Sold!

I took my treasure and headed back to have that cappuccino! I love how Mexicans put cinnamon in their coffee! I read for quite a bit as I savoured my treat. There’s sugar in the picture, but I didn’t put any in. I only like milk in my coffee.

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I then headed back to the hotel to research dinner options. One of the best rated options in all of Durango was Fonda de la Tía Chona, just a few blocks from my hotel (but of course!). It’s next to this building, which I found very charming in a Sleeping Beauty’s castle tucked away behind the thorns kind of way:

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Here’s the outside of the restaurant:

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The menu is a bit bewildering as it’s laid out like a newspaper, with dish listings peppered between interesting articles. I ordered a XX beer and didn’t have time to order my main before I was brought free appetizers! Spicy and very yummy pickles:

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And taquitos!

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The decor was very traditional. I really like the white walls and dark wood and would like to find something like that in Mérida.

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I ordered chicken mole for dinner and am sad to say I was disappointed at what I got for the price I paid. 🙁 The food was good (although I found the stringy chicken a little rubbery), but I’ve had mole that was at least as good as this for less money. The sauce was most chocolatey mole I’ve ever had, and that’s just a statement of fact, not a value judgment. Every mole is different!

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I was on vacation, so I ordered dessert and coffee (yes, I was to regret all that late day coffee when I hit the sack!). My espresso was perfect and I was ‘disappointed’ (and by that I wasn’t) that ‘cheesecake’ in Mexico is exactly like cheesecake back home, with a Graham cracker crust and filling made from Philadelphia cream cheese. Worth the calories, let me tell you! I really don’t do dessert that often anymore and was thrilled that I was happy with this:

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Dinner was expensive, but it wasn’t, $260 (just 20CAD for beer, a main, dessert, and coffee!).

Needless to say, I needed to walk off at least part of dinner! Since my hotel was on a main street, I did not hesitate to go exploring after dark!

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I wound up back at Plaza de armas, where I found a jewelry vendor who helped me remedy the fact that I managed to leave home without any earrings! These pressed flowers behind glass were bargained down to a mere $75 and were worn all weekend!

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I continued quite a ways down 20 de noviembre to a huge Soriana to pick up bananas and water. Those of you on Facebook might remember that I posted that I got lost in it. I’m not kidding! I had to get help to find the bananas and then required an escort to get to the cash registers! Both purchases wound up making sense over the weekend, although the bananas weren’t always a morning food! The hotel gave me bottles of water every day, but I’d run out by this morning (departure day) and was glad I had more.

When I got back to the hotel, I laid out one of my maps and set to work getting a rough idea of what I wanted to see and do in my two days in Durango, although absolutely nothing was set in stone.

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I also spent some time in that squashy armchair writing in a journal about my day, hence why my memories are so clear. 🙂

The Hotel Posada San Agustín, Durango

The Hotel Posada San Agustín, where I stayed for three nights in Durango, is in the heart of Durango’s historic Centro, right on 20 de noviembre, a main thoroughfare through the district, and walking distance to just about everything, including the Plaza de armas, where a lot of tours start from. I have rarely had the privilege of staying in the heart of a tourist zone and really appreciated being able to go back to my room for a break without having to make a huge effort to get there, never mind being in such a beautiful and architecturally interesting building! The neighbourhood was super quiet at night, with my only complaint being that the church right next door rings its bells at 7:00 a.m.!

The hotel is located a block from Zaragoza (all Mexican cities apparently have the same names).

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You enter into the first of two gorgeous courtyards:

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I was greeted warmly and checked in promptly, with my request for a standard room being honoured. They have suites, and I debated upgrading to a ‘junior’ one for a mere $50 more, but decided to stick to my original plan. My most pressing question once I had my key (and remotes for the TV and AC) was what to do with my truck. I was told I’d have to drive around the block and park it in the Palacio lot across from the archeology museum, get a ticket, and then the hotel would stamp my ticket whenever I wanted to take my truck out. The clerk drew me a map to make sure I was understanding her correctly. The lot was super easy to find and quite convenient to the hotel, although I wish I’d dropped my luggage first!

Moya spent the whole weekend parked  here, safe and sound, with 24-hour security:

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Back at the hotel, I crossed the first courtyard and went through the second (That floor! Those arches!):

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My room was upstairs at the back (my request), so I had to climb these lovely stone steps:

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The room was definitely ‘cozy’, but absolutely perfect for my needs. My bed had quite possibly the only comfortable mattress in all of Mexico (Croft thinks I could be right because he’s never encountered one!):

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There was a desk/vanity area:

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I liked that there was a switch for a light in the closet that automatically turned it on and off:

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This was my favourite part of the room, the chair and ottoman! I had something similar in my T or C apartment and is what I wish I had here:

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(BTW, I had that EXACT same carpet in my mobile house in Quebec. I see it a lot in m/hotels in Canada and the U.S. and am beyond amused that it’s also used in Mexico!)

The bathroom was adequate, with good hot water and pressure in the shower! The window opens to the stairwell!

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This fancy working phone by the toilet made me laugh:

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And I loved the phone by the bed!

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What I didn’t like about the room would be easily fixable. Since there is only a tiny window to the outside (above the desk), they put in a glass block wall by the door to let in natural and hallway light. But the hallway light is on all night and the roll down shade doesn’t cover the entire window. I ended up having to use the duvet to fully block the light.

I also didn’t like that there was a family of about 50 people (only mildly exaggerating) staying in the suite next to my room and they were LOUD coming in at night. No concept of indoor and outdoor voices and footsteps, but that’s a Mexico thing. If they hadn’t woken me up every night, I would have slept very well since the room was dark and quiet until 7:00 a.m. and the bed was comfortable!

The hotel wifi was terrible (would work for a while, then quit, then work again), but I needed to use up my Banda Ancha, so that didn’t bother me too much. I would have been disappointed if I needed to work.

I really enjoyed my stay at this hotel. It has a very cozy and homey atmosphere. I liked going down to the front courtyard in the morning to drink their surprisingly decent coffee (and an orange juice) and sit in a comfy chair to read the newspaper. The location was beyond perfect. I rather planned my days in a figure 8-type pattern so I could pop in in the late afternoon and have a rest. Durango taxis are apparently super cheap, but I never needed one.