Harry’s Roadhouse, Santa Fe

I was going to make dinner tonight, but John texted me at the last minute to invite me to Harry’s Roadhouse, the nearest restaurant to his place, for dinner. Why not?!

It’s another restaurant with a colourful history and is very quintessentially American with a diner feel. We ate at a counter on stools and behind us were 1950s Formica tables with matching chairs. John says that it’s not the best food in Santa Fe, but it’s very popular because of its location and the price is right.

The menu was really eclectic, everything form New Mex food like burritos to burgers and pizzas to… Moroccan stew. Seriously. I was impressed by the selection and the reasonable prices.

It was really hard to decide so when John suggested the blue corn turkey enchiladas, that was it. I thought it would be interesting to compare Mexican enchiladas to New Mexican ones. John said that I would be asked if I wanted red or green, as in the chile sauce, and I surprised him by responding, “Christmas!” Another item off my travel bucket list, ordering something Christmas in New Mexico! 😀 That means you want half red sauce and half green.

New Mexican enchiladas are more substantial than Mexican ones, which are a meat filling in corn tortillas with some consomme over top and maybe a dollop of crema and some rice and beans on the side.

These were smothered in cheese (which, if you’ve been reading my blog long enough, you know is NOT a problem *g*) and had sour cream, guacamole (SO GOOD!), tomatoes, and whole beans on the side, plus a flour tortilla for mopping up your plate. Excellent! There was a bit of kick to the green sauce, but I really can deal with that now, and, besides, the sour cream is there to cool things down if you need to. The portion was generous, but there wasn’t quite enough to make two meals and at $10.50, the price was right even if I didn’t take home leftovers.

I’m thus far really impressed with the culinary offerings in Santa Fe!

Randall Davey Audubon Center and Sanctuary

John suggested I drive up Upper Canyon Road one day and check out the Randall Davey Audubon Center and Sanctuary. I Googled it and it seemed like the perfect thing for an afternoon where I only had a couple of free hours as it’s super close by and there is only a couple of miles of hiking trails to do there, unless you can get into the house, which I couldn’t today.

The directions on their site made me laugh, acknowledging that you’ll feel lost and in the middle of nowhere by the time you arrive!

The welcome sign in the parking lot.

The welcome sign in the parking lot.

I went into the Nature Store to get information. Access to the property is free and donation boxes abound. I slipped a few dollars into the box, signed the guest registry, and accepted a map. The lady at the desk asked if the altitude is an issue and I was able to proudly say no. Yes, I’m feeling it, but my Mexico winter whipped me back into shape and I’m breathing only a little bit harder. I refuse to concede any speed, preferring to get a little winded, as that means I’m getting a better workout.

I love how their signs are hand drawn with coloured pencils.

I love how their signs are hand drawn with coloured pencils.

I went around the trail network, enjoying the scenery. The only animals I saw were a bird and a man, but there was scat on the trail that looked like it might be from a cougar, of which there are lots in the hills here according to the signage.

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Interesting bench/table.

Interesting bench/table.

Such beautiful scenery.

Such beautiful scenery.

Another hand drawn sign.

Another hand drawn sign.

So much for the eye to take in.

So much for the eye to take in.

I did the bear canyon trail; it wasn't much of a distance!

I did the bear canyon trail; it wasn’t much of a distance!

View from a bench.

View from a bench.

Val-deri,Val-dera, Val-deri, Val-dera-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha Val-deri,Val-dera.

Val-deri,Val-dera,
Val-deri,
Val-dera-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha
Val-deri,Val-dera.

I kept going.

I kept going.

The only wildlife I saw.

The only wildlife I saw.

I was told I could keep going beyond this point.

I was told I could keep going beyond this point, so I did.

Just had to get over this.

Just had to get over this.

Nice pile of rocks.

Nice pile of rocks.

Yeah, that's the end of the road...

Yeah, that’s the end of the road…

Love the bright green.

Love the bright green.

Lots of orthoclase feldspar (a reddish/pinkish quartz) abounded).

Lots of orthoclase feldspar (a reddish/pinkish quartz) abounded).

What a lovely hour and a bit this was! It was a change from hiking the arroyo and it didn’t take up my entire day. I would hike there a lot if I lived in the area.

Cleopatra’s Cafe, Santa Fe

Work was going surprisingly well this morning and by noonish, I was where I’d expected to be around 3:00. It was a gorgeous day, the first in about a week, and the last in about a week, so it was hard to stay focused. I decided to go hiking in an area that John recommended and thought about having lunch first, to have something to walk off.

The eternal optimist, I Googled ‘santa fe falafel’ and got a link for Cleopatra’s Cafe, an Egyptian/Mediterranean restaurant with two locations, one of which, on Cerrillos, was barely a detour from my destination!

Off I went and found the cafe in a little mall downtown. You order at a counter, but the server brings your food to the table on real china, not like a food court at all. I ordered the ‘Moses’ platter, with two (actually three) Egyptian-style falafel balls, chicken, garlic sauce, hummus, salad, and pita, for just under $12. Right now, $12 feels like a lot of money since I’m still coming off the high of my Mexico budget, but I will say before before I get into details that if I was going to spend $12 on a meal on this trip, I bought the right one!!!

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Clockwise from the top left, we have salad with lemon vinaigrette and feta, marinated chicken, falafel (both covered with garlic sauce and paprika), and hummus with olive oil and more paprika.

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Greek (thick/pocketless) pita.

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Egyptian falafel is made with fava beans and is bright green!

Oh!

I won’t say this is anywhere near the top best Mediterranean meal I’ve ever had, but Cleopatra’s was an oasis in the desert and there is a very good chance I’ll be eating here again before I leave! I do have to say I’ve never had Egyptian food, so the seasonings were not as familiar to me as Greek or, my favourite, Lebanese. Cleopatra’s borrows from all these cuisines, though, so the salad, hummus, and garlic sauce were all as expected and pitch perfect.

The falafel were interesting. I actually had a choice of Lebanese or Egyptian, but have wanted to try Egyptian forever. They are made with fava beans rather than chickpeas, so they are green. They are also more mushy than crumbly. I didn’t find these nearly as flavourful as the best Lebanese or Syrian chickpea falafel I’ve had, but they had good flavour. I wouldn’t order them again, though, given a choice.

The salad was simple and perfect, with very fresh and crisp veg, a tangy lemon vinaigrette, and lots of salty feta.

The hummus was pretty basis, but the high quality olive oil that actually tasted like olives really dressed it up. The pita was very fresh and the perfect mop for both hummus and garlic sauce.

The chicken was moist and flavourful, although I did get a few bits of gristle. Really, it was just a conduit for garlic sauce, which did not disappoint!

The restaurant was doing a brisk trade at lunch today. I would like to go try the Zarafanos location as reviews for it are good while those for the Cerrillos location are middling, so I’d like to see if they are that different. Regardless, I had a dang good and satisfying meal and now know there’s no excuse for not being able to find decent and flavourful Mediterranean food south and west of the Montreal-Ottawa corridor! Santa Fe residents are dang lucky!

A Very Full Afternoon in Santa Fe

This afternoon, I drove to downtown Santa Fe to see what was what. John gave me a few street names about a mile from downtown as possible free parking spots. On the way, my ‘you need gas’ light came on and then came a nearly hour-long search for fuel. I am throwing my GPS into the Santa Fe River! It kept directing me to gas stations that haven’t existed in years or to turn the wrong way down one ways, all the while directing me through super narrow European-style streets. Not the introduction to Santa Fe I wanted. 🙁 I finally found fuel and put in 17 gallons. HOLY MOLY. The tank holds 19.5 and I’ve never put in more than 16 gallons or so. I was running on fumes! But I’m glad I found gas early in the day because my afternoon was going to take on an unexpected twist.

But first, I parked where John told me to park and hoofed it down the Old Santa Fe Trail, a busy thoroughfare that takes you to downtown. I passed the visitors’ centre and popped in for a walking map.

Courtyard of the visitor's' centre.

Courtyard of the visitors’ centre.

Front of the visitors' centre.

Front of the visitors’ centre.

Since it was getting late in the day, I decided to go straight to the history museum. But I still passed some interesting stuff on the way.

The oldest church structure in the United States (early 17th century).

The oldest church structure in the United States (early 17th century).

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Another beautiful church.

Another beautiful church.

Loretto Chapel, home of the miraculous staircase.

Loretto Chapel, home of the miraculous staircase.

Remember that miraculous staircase…

Yet another gorgeous church, and very ornate inside.

Yet another gorgeous church, and very ornate inside.

The history museum.

The history museum.

As it turned out, my pass for the New Mexico History Museum was good not only for that museum, but also for the Palace of the Governors! I’ve already gotten more than my money’s worth out of the CulturePass!

The history museum was smaller than I expected, but that’s just a statement of fact, not a valuation. It was really good and had a lot of interesting exhibits. The main exhibit is the history of New Mexico from prehistory to now. It’s a part of North American history I’m not familiar with, but it’s really no different from the history in my part of Quebec, only with different actors.

I enjoyed an exhibit about a top secret facility related to the Manhattan project, one about the Civil War, and one about what was probably the first chain of dining and hotel establishments in the west, Harvey House. I was going through this exhibit when I got a text from John asking me to call when I could, and another saying that there was no emergency. We are on the same wavelength! 😀

I called when I could and as it turned out, he had some free time and was wondering if he could join me. We had made tentative plans to hang out on Tuesday, but he wasn’t going to be free and the weather is promising to be miserable. I told him where I was and he said he’d text when he was closer.

I then went upstairs to the temporary exhibits and saw one on camera obscuras and pinprick photography, as well as one about the Virgin Mary.

Then, I went into the courtyard to check out the printing presses and go across to the Palace of the Governors.

Courtyard between the history museum and the Palace of the Governors.

Courtyard between the history museum and the Palace of the Governors.

Courtyard between the history museum and the Palace of the Governors.

Courtyard between the history museum and the Palace of the Governors.

Nothing says May more to me than lilacs. I will be planting a lilac tree at Haven!

Nothing says May more to me than lilacs. I will be planting a lilac tree at Haven!

This building was originally constructed in the early 17th century to be Spain’s seat of government, and then was adapted and remodeled to suit other needs as the years went by. There was an interesting exhibit that showed different stages of development on plexiglass that you could layer to see the changing floor plan.

This was an expansive building taking up a full block and full of white plaster walls and dark ceiling beams. I’m really digging that decorating scheme. 🙂

There were lots of interesting exhibits about settlement and governance in New Mexico, religion, and, my favourite, hide paintings, that is scenes of New Mexico life painted on animal skins.

John still hadn’t arrived when I was through at the Palace of the Governors, so I headed out to explore the immediate area.

Across from the Palace of the Governors.

Across from the Palace of the Governors.

The area really reminded me of Plazuela Machado, only much more touristy (which will make my Maz friends laugh). John says that Santa Fe used to have a ‘real’ downtown, but now, it’s all for the tourists and full of expensive shops and restaurants.

Plaza.

Plaza.

Front of the Palace of the Governors.

Front of the Palace of the Governors.

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John texted me just as I finished my tour of the plaza to let me know he was at the entrance to the history museum. We met up and headed across the street to the Museum of Art, which was once the ‘fine arts’ museum. We just did a quick tour since it was getting very late and I’ll actually be able to go back if I want.

The art museum.

The art museum.

Egyptian obelisk in the courtyard of the art museum.

Egyptian obelisk in the courtyard of the art museum.

I really liked what I saw on our dash through it. The museums in Santa Fe are all very small, but they pack in a lot! There was a photograph exhibit that we both liked that featured the subject at a young age, then as an adult.

When we came out, John asked if I was thinking about food, which I was. I hadn’t had lunch and planned on having linner after doing the museums. He suggested we go to a burger joint owned by friends of his called Santa Fe Bite. The restaurant used to be a 10-seater located outside the city limits, but now it’s a proper downtown restaurant. I wouldn’t have thought to go in since I figured it was just a basic diner attached to a hotel. It pays to play tourist with a local guide!

I ordered just a basic burger with lettuce, tomato, pickles, and onions. It was really good! The meat was lightly seasoned and juicy while the homemade bun was buttery and chewy. I had the whole bun, but I left most of the delicious kettle chips. John had a spicy-looking chili with cornbread. Best of all, his friend was working and they were able to have a quick catchup. Serendipity!

From the diner, it was decided that we would walk to John’s car and that he would take me back to my truck.

We stopped at the Loretto Chapel on the way and since it was past closing, we were allowed to very quickly go into the chapel and get a picture of the miraculous staircase without paying the museum admission fee.

The miraculous staircase. Can you see why?

The miraculous staircase. Can you see why?

I love spiral staircases and knew about this one, but didn’t realise it was in Santa Fe. It is an engineering marvel! Can you see why?

The chapel is lovely, too.

Another beautiful chapel.

Another beautiful chapel.

We went into another church, the third one I saw on the way to downtown, and then made it to his car. Before going to my truck, we drove to Fort Marcy Park. It’s a sinuous uphill walk to a viewing platform on the site of an old fort, with plaques all the way up detailing the history of New Mexico.

A place I wouldn't have found on my own.

A place I wouldn’t have found on my own.

Breathtaking views of Santa Fe.

Breathtaking views of Santa Fe.

Breathtaking views of Santa Fe.

Breathtaking views of Santa Fe.

Quite a climb, but worth the effort.

Quite a climb, but worth the effort.

Breathtaking views of Santa Fe.

Breathtaking views of Santa Fe.

We then got back to my truck and I followed him most of the way home, where he detoured to show me the site of an old pueblo that was excavated in the 1970s. It felt like a place of immense power. What amazed me the most was all the potsherds just lying around on the ground. I had to take a picture of an incredible find, but, of course, left it behind!

Black on white potsherd. What a find!

Black on white potsherd. What a find!

The day didn’t start off too well, but definitely improved! It was a wonderful afternoon and I was once again grateful for a local guide.

Now, I have TONS of work to do in the next couple of days, so I will probably hunker down at home for a bit. But John’s not ready to kick me out (I think…), so I may extend my stay a bit to go on a field field trips in the environs.

Readers, I’ve a Feeling We’re Not in Mazatlán Anymore

May is proving to be its usual delightful self, with tornadoes to the east of me and snowstorms to the north. I’m heading for Mount Rushmore and am in rush less mode (ha ha ha) seeing as the area is being hammered by a blizzard right now!

Here in Santa Fe, it was cold last night. We’re right at the freezing mark this morning, so I bet we went below freezing overnight. I left the furnace on at about 55F so I wouldn’t have to warm up an ice box this morning and the furnace ran on and off all night. Like Miranda, this RV is built to handle some cold with aplomb, so I’m perfectly cozy.

There was a very brief moment of panic this morning when I realised I had just enough coffee left for one cup. I’m not sure how I missed that. Then, I remembered that not only did Rico’s package the pound into two bags, I brought all the food in from the truck, so the last bag of delicious Mexican coffee is in the RV with me. Crisis averted!

The plan for today is still to type in the morning and go downtown in the afternoon. It should be nice out after lunch.