A Very Full Afternoon in Santa Fe

This afternoon, I drove to downtown Santa Fe to see what was what. John gave me a few street names about a mile from downtown as possible free parking spots. On the way, my ‘you need gas’ light came on and then came a nearly hour-long search for fuel. I am throwing my GPS into the Santa Fe River! It kept directing me to gas stations that haven’t existed in years or to turn the wrong way down one ways, all the while directing me through super narrow European-style streets. Not the introduction to Santa Fe I wanted. 🙁 I finally found fuel and put in 17 gallons. HOLY MOLY. The tank holds 19.5 and I’ve never put in more than 16 gallons or so. I was running on fumes! But I’m glad I found gas early in the day because my afternoon was going to take on an unexpected twist.

But first, I parked where John told me to park and hoofed it down the Old Santa Fe Trail, a busy thoroughfare that takes you to downtown. I passed the visitors’ centre and popped in for a walking map.

Courtyard of the visitor's' centre.

Courtyard of the visitors’ centre.

Front of the visitors' centre.

Front of the visitors’ centre.

Since it was getting late in the day, I decided to go straight to the history museum. But I still passed some interesting stuff on the way.

The oldest church structure in the United States (early 17th century).

The oldest church structure in the United States (early 17th century).

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Another beautiful church.

Another beautiful church.

Loretto Chapel, home of the miraculous staircase.

Loretto Chapel, home of the miraculous staircase.

Remember that miraculous staircase…

Yet another gorgeous church, and very ornate inside.

Yet another gorgeous church, and very ornate inside.

The history museum.

The history museum.

As it turned out, my pass for the New Mexico History Museum was good not only for that museum, but also for the Palace of the Governors! I’ve already gotten more than my money’s worth out of the CulturePass!

The history museum was smaller than I expected, but that’s just a statement of fact, not a valuation. It was really good and had a lot of interesting exhibits. The main exhibit is the history of New Mexico from prehistory to now. It’s a part of North American history I’m not familiar with, but it’s really no different from the history in my part of Quebec, only with different actors.

I enjoyed an exhibit about a top secret facility related to the Manhattan project, one about the Civil War, and one about what was probably the first chain of dining and hotel establishments in the west, Harvey House. I was going through this exhibit when I got a text from John asking me to call when I could, and another saying that there was no emergency. We are on the same wavelength! 😀

I called when I could and as it turned out, he had some free time and was wondering if he could join me. We had made tentative plans to hang out on Tuesday, but he wasn’t going to be free and the weather is promising to be miserable. I told him where I was and he said he’d text when he was closer.

I then went upstairs to the temporary exhibits and saw one on camera obscuras and pinprick photography, as well as one about the Virgin Mary.

Then, I went into the courtyard to check out the printing presses and go across to the Palace of the Governors.

Courtyard between the history museum and the Palace of the Governors.

Courtyard between the history museum and the Palace of the Governors.

Courtyard between the history museum and the Palace of the Governors.

Courtyard between the history museum and the Palace of the Governors.

Nothing says May more to me than lilacs. I will be planting a lilac tree at Haven!

Nothing says May more to me than lilacs. I will be planting a lilac tree at Haven!

This building was originally constructed in the early 17th century to be Spain’s seat of government, and then was adapted and remodeled to suit other needs as the years went by. There was an interesting exhibit that showed different stages of development on plexiglass that you could layer to see the changing floor plan.

This was an expansive building taking up a full block and full of white plaster walls and dark ceiling beams. I’m really digging that decorating scheme. 🙂

There were lots of interesting exhibits about settlement and governance in New Mexico, religion, and, my favourite, hide paintings, that is scenes of New Mexico life painted on animal skins.

John still hadn’t arrived when I was through at the Palace of the Governors, so I headed out to explore the immediate area.

Across from the Palace of the Governors.

Across from the Palace of the Governors.

The area really reminded me of Plazuela Machado, only much more touristy (which will make my Maz friends laugh). John says that Santa Fe used to have a ‘real’ downtown, but now, it’s all for the tourists and full of expensive shops and restaurants.

Plaza.

Plaza.

Front of the Palace of the Governors.

Front of the Palace of the Governors.

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John texted me just as I finished my tour of the plaza to let me know he was at the entrance to the history museum. We met up and headed across the street to the Museum of Art, which was once the ‘fine arts’ museum. We just did a quick tour since it was getting very late and I’ll actually be able to go back if I want.

The art museum.

The art museum.

Egyptian obelisk in the courtyard of the art museum.

Egyptian obelisk in the courtyard of the art museum.

I really liked what I saw on our dash through it. The museums in Santa Fe are all very small, but they pack in a lot! There was a photograph exhibit that we both liked that featured the subject at a young age, then as an adult.

When we came out, John asked if I was thinking about food, which I was. I hadn’t had lunch and planned on having linner after doing the museums. He suggested we go to a burger joint owned by friends of his called Santa Fe Bite. The restaurant used to be a 10-seater located outside the city limits, but now it’s a proper downtown restaurant. I wouldn’t have thought to go in since I figured it was just a basic diner attached to a hotel. It pays to play tourist with a local guide!

I ordered just a basic burger with lettuce, tomato, pickles, and onions. It was really good! The meat was lightly seasoned and juicy while the homemade bun was buttery and chewy. I had the whole bun, but I left most of the delicious kettle chips. John had a spicy-looking chili with cornbread. Best of all, his friend was working and they were able to have a quick catchup. Serendipity!

From the diner, it was decided that we would walk to John’s car and that he would take me back to my truck.

We stopped at the Loretto Chapel on the way and since it was past closing, we were allowed to very quickly go into the chapel and get a picture of the miraculous staircase without paying the museum admission fee.

The miraculous staircase. Can you see why?

The miraculous staircase. Can you see why?

I love spiral staircases and knew about this one, but didn’t realise it was in Santa Fe. It is an engineering marvel! Can you see why?

The chapel is lovely, too.

Another beautiful chapel.

Another beautiful chapel.

We went into another church, the third one I saw on the way to downtown, and then made it to his car. Before going to my truck, we drove to Fort Marcy Park. It’s a sinuous uphill walk to a viewing platform on the site of an old fort, with plaques all the way up detailing the history of New Mexico.

A place I wouldn't have found on my own.

A place I wouldn’t have found on my own.

Breathtaking views of Santa Fe.

Breathtaking views of Santa Fe.

Breathtaking views of Santa Fe.

Breathtaking views of Santa Fe.

Quite a climb, but worth the effort.

Quite a climb, but worth the effort.

Breathtaking views of Santa Fe.

Breathtaking views of Santa Fe.

We then got back to my truck and I followed him most of the way home, where he detoured to show me the site of an old pueblo that was excavated in the 1970s. It felt like a place of immense power. What amazed me the most was all the potsherds just lying around on the ground. I had to take a picture of an incredible find, but, of course, left it behind!

Black on white potsherd. What a find!

Black on white potsherd. What a find!

The day didn’t start off too well, but definitely improved! It was a wonderful afternoon and I was once again grateful for a local guide.

Now, I have TONS of work to do in the next couple of days, so I will probably hunker down at home for a bit. But John’s not ready to kick me out (I think…), so I may extend my stay a bit to go on a field field trips in the environs.

Readers, I’ve a Feeling We’re Not in Mazatlán Anymore

May is proving to be its usual delightful self, with tornadoes to the east of me and snowstorms to the north. I’m heading for Mount Rushmore and am in rush less mode (ha ha ha) seeing as the area is being hammered by a blizzard right now!

Here in Santa Fe, it was cold last night. We’re right at the freezing mark this morning, so I bet we went below freezing overnight. I left the furnace on at about 55F so I wouldn’t have to warm up an ice box this morning and the furnace ran on and off all night. Like Miranda, this RV is built to handle some cold with aplomb, so I’m perfectly cozy.

There was a very brief moment of panic this morning when I realised I had just enough coffee left for one cup. I’m not sure how I missed that. Then, I remembered that not only did Rico’s package the pound into two bags, I brought all the food in from the truck, so the last bag of delicious Mexican coffee is in the RV with me. Crisis averted!

The plan for today is still to type in the morning and go downtown in the afternoon. It should be nice out after lunch.

New Mexico CulturePass and the Santa Fe Museums of International Folk Art and Indian Arts & Culture

John told me about a $20 pass to several Santa Fe museums. I looked it up and it didn’t seem like a sure deal to me. I’d have to tour three museums to get my money’s worth and I’d only have four days to do it. Well, my information was out of date. I learned at my first stop today that there is now a $25 (out of state resident price) New Mexico CulturePass that gives admission to 15 museums throughout the state. I won’t be hitting any more beyond Santa Fe, but if I visit at least three museums here, I’ll have saved $2 and if I hit all four, I’ll have saved $9 (so basically pay for three admissions, get one free).

But the best part is that the pass is good until this day next year. So when (because it is nearly surely a when) I come through NM next year, I can use the pass in Las Cruces and a few other places! I actually didn’t miss anything not having the pass earlier this month; the museums are really scattered. I think ABQ is the only place I passed that had a museum where I could have used the pass and I visited the museum anyway!

Two of the museums for which I could use my pass were located across from each other, so I visited both today. There are other museums in the immediate vicinity (walking distance), but unfortunately they are not included with the pass.

Museum courtyard

Museum courtyard, International Folk Art to the right, Indian to the left.

Entrance to the museum of International Folk Art.

Entrance to the museum of International Folk Art.

I started my day at the Museum of International Folk Art, recommended by John. It was a lot smaller than I expected, but if you read everything, you could be there all day.

I started in a gallery about pottery from the Southern US, mainly the Carolinas, and got hypnotized by a video of a potter at work. There were lots of really gorgeous pieces and these are just some of my favourites.

Face jug.

Face jug.

I love the detailing. The drips are semi-intentional and come in the firing process.

I love the detailing. The drips are semi-intentional and come in the firing process.

Exquisite!

Exquisite!

Gorgeous pitchers.

Gorgeous pitchers.

This is a jug that may have been designed to be tied to a saddle.

This is a jug that may have been designed to be tied to a saddle.

Next, there was a small exhibit about the immigrant experience. There was a gut wrenching poem by a teenage girl who came to Santa Fe with her family from Mexico and has experienced discrimination. It finished with, and I am paraphrasing, “You call us wetbacks for coming across the river. What should we call you for coming across an ocean?”

Then came the most important collection, from the Girard family, a collection of toys, textiles, and other memorabilia from around the world (but mostly Mexico) arranged in thoughtful vignettes. This is where you could lose most of a day!

These are just a few things that caught my eye:

Gorgeous textiles.

Gorgeous textiles.

Cabinet after cabinet of wonders in the Girard wing.

Cabinet after cabinet of wonders in the Girard wing.

Angels on top, demons below.

Angels on top, demons below.

No placards in the Girard exhibit. Instead, you use a catalogue to look up the exhibits that interest you.

No placards in the Girard exhibit. Instead, you use a catalogue to look up the exhibits that interest you.

Beautiful tapestry from Ethiopia.

Beautiful tapestry from Ethiopia.

I spent about an hour at this museum, but actually went through twice. It was really more of a museum for me to feast my eyes on than to spend a lot of time reading. I’d consider it a must visit if you like quirky objects, textiles, and handicrafts. The gift shop is really interesting to poke through, too, and I found some Mexican blouses for only 40USD that are similar to the one I bought at the Mercado for 19USD… 😀

Next, I checked out the museum café, but there was a long line up and the current exchange rate made it rather pricey (eg. $12 for a hamburger and fries), so I decided to pass. My budget is fine, and I can’t stress that enough, but I have two late invoices that are awaiting payment and so I must remain extremely frugal. And even if I wasn’t experiencing cash flow crunch, I’d rather spend 20CAD on a pretty souvenir, like earrings, or a memory, like visits to museums. So I decided I could wait to eat and headed to the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture.

Entrance to the Museum of Indian Art & Culture

Entrance to the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture

No photography is allowed in this museum, so I’m going a little by memory. The first gallery is about the history and present day situation of all the Native New Mexican tribes. It’s a really beautiful part of the museum, but full of tight little alcoves where you have to wait for people to read everything before you can do the same. The museum wasn’t crowded today and I still had to wait in line at every single exhibit in this gallery. It got a little tedious.

Next, there was a small gallery with Native pottery. Different techniques from the European tradition, but equally beautiful.

Then, there was my favourite exhibit, art by David Bradley. He paints vibrant pictures that look very cheerful until you examine them more closely and realise that they are scathing commentary on how Natives are treated in the US today.

After, there was a small gallery about Native music, drums, rattles, flutes, and the like. There was another hypnotic film. I love the drumming!

Finally, there was an exhibit about turquoise, where I learned a lot about the mineral/gem and ogled a lot of jewelery made with it, silver, and coral. I was once again really glad that I bought my turquoise earrings in Cerillo!

This was another excellent museum well worth visiting. I like that it presented a balanced view of the Native American experience.

It was snowy and cold when I came out, but I made one final stop at the sculpture garden, which featured statues of strong beautiful women.

Entrance into the sculpture garden.

Entrance into the sculpture garden.

I was struck by her obvious strength.

I was struck by her obvious strength.

And hers.

And hers.

And hers.

And hers.

Today was museum weather. I hope that the promised warmth tomorrow materializes so I can check out downtown! There is another museum there I’d like to do, in addition to just walking around.

SNOW

What a nasty unpleasant day! Very cold and windy with flurries! I had planned to go downtown and walk around today, but tomorrow is looking much nicer for that, so I’m scrapping that plan. I am going to do a museum John recommended, however! I had to go to the truck and pull out cold weather gear. Thankfully, leggings, my puffy vest, heavy coat, a scarf, and gloves were all within easy reach.

It’s funny how it took just six months in a tropical climate with little day-to-day weather variations for me to forget to check the weather when making plans. I was going to work half days today, Sunday, and Tuesday and explore in the afternoons, working a full day Monday because many things are closed. But the weather today and Tuesday is looking dire, so I may have to do more exploration Monday after all.

First Normal Work Day in a Long While

Wow, done with a full day of work by 6PM, that hasn’t happened in a very long time! I’ve been so over booked the last six to eight weeks! But I’m not complaining about the workload. I know I need to take it when I need to!

It was a quiet day. John came by in the morning to give me some salt and pepper shakers and then left me to my day’s hearing. By noon, I was halfway through my day, so I took an hour-long walk.

There was a raven flying around. Its wing flapping was very loud!

There was a raven flying around. Its wing flapping was very loud!

Just like home, impeccably groomed gravel roads form a T junction with no signage in sight!

Just like home, impeccably groomed gravel roads form a T junction with no signage in sight!

I love the combination of the wood barn in the foreground and the adobe building in the background.

I love the combination of the wood barn in the foreground and the adobe building in the background.

Very random place for a telephone wire.

Very random place for a telephone wire.

This property has adobe at the corners and gates and then the fencing is deadwood. I saw similar construction on Isla.

This property has adobe at the corners and gates and then the fencing is deadwood. I saw similar construction on Isla.

I couldn’t figure out why yesterday and today I found myself a little short of breath at the top of short steep hills when I was power walking the Leandro Valle hill in Maz without breaking a sweat. It only hit me later that this is because I am at 7,000 feet!

I typed through the afternoon, glad that it was an easy file, and then it was time for wine! And dinner. I’m having Brussels sprouts for the first time in about eight months! I am also using a toaster for the first time in I am fairly sure is nearly two years!

My work came in for the next few days and I’m planning to do a few half days so I can go exploring in Santa Fe in the afternoons, beginning tomorrow!