Art Museums

by

Banff

Today was the kind of day that makes you realise that you’ve been given enough gifts to last a lifetime and that asking for anything more is just greed talking.

I had a lot of misgivings and preconceptions about Banff. I expected it to be kitschy, expensive, and over rated. By the time I got to the town limits, I was in an absolutely foul mood and wondered if there was any point my being there at all. To enter Banff National Park (in which Banff is located), you need to pay an access fee of 10$ for a day or 65$ for a year for an individual or 130$ for a family. I decided that the annual pass would make more sense since it’s good at all national parks across Canada. I asked the attendant if I was going to need a second pass for my motorhome, even if I was towing my car behind it and only one vehicle would be on park roads at a time. She said yes. That was sort of the proverbial straw for me as to dealing with Parks Canada. In order to stay at their grossly overpriced campgrounds I had to pay an additional 130$ per year? I decided right then and there that I was taking the Crowsnest Pass on Thursday and not going through Banff again.

But I talked to someone else at the Banff Information Centre and what she had to say was much more logical, that I didn’t need a second pass. I realised then that Parks Canada employees are like a lot civil servants I work with and unable to see their jobs as anything but black and white. So if I get questioned for having just one pass, I’ll just tell them that the people at the Banff info centre said I didn’t need a second one.

My mood greatly improved then and one of the most amazing days of my life began.

Let’s start at the beginning.

I stopped for a bit of a break on my almost 1.5 hour drive to Banff at Lacs des arcs:

I’ve always wanted to say: “I’m Rae. From Canmore.” Non Royal Canadian Air Farce fans can just scratch their heads at that one. *ggl*



Entrance to Banff National Park

Welcome to Banff!

Banff Avenue

A lovely, eye-catching, sculpture on Banff Avenue

So, Banff. A compact, aesthetically pleasing but not kitshy, friendly town. The first thing that I noticed were gas prices; they were the same as in Calgary! Then I noticed all the signs announcing RV parking for two hours on the street and 12 hours (but no overnight) in special lots reserved for RVs. Then I noticed that all parking in Banff is free! I wouldn’t want to take Miranda in there at the height of the tourist season, but today I would have had no problem finding a place for her and she would have been secure all day, without my having to beg for a place to park her while I explored. I therefore award Banff the distinction of being the first truly RV friendly place I’ve been to so far. I’ve never felt so welcome!

First order of business in Banff was pretty funny and goes to show that I’m living my real life and not on vacation. Yesterday, I managed to lose my ATM card. I’d had my previous card for 15 years and I wasn’t able to hang on to my current card for more than a few months! So, off to the CIBC I went to get a new card. This illustrates one of the many reasons I love being with the CIBC; if a town has more than one banking institution there is usually a CIBC (unless you’re in Quebec where the same can be said about Caisse Pops). I was therefore not surprised to find a CIBC right across the street from the lot where I parked.

That done, I went to the visitor’s centre to raise hell about the park passes and to see if I could add anything to my day’s itinerary, which contained just two items.

I wandered down Banff Avenue for a bit and then went to Gopher Avenue to visit the Whyte Museum for the sole purpose of viewing the Group of Seven et. al. exhibition. Yes, we finally get a bit of culture! LOL

Of all the members of the Group of Seven, A.Y. Jackson is my favourite.


There were also some lovely pieces by Japanese-Canadian artist Takao Tanabe, another favourite of mine. I couldn’t believe I got to see this piece in person; it’s my favourite of his!

There was more to the museum, but it was way too nice a day out to stay inside for long!

Next order of business was something I learned about at the info centre: the Sulphur Mountain Gondola. Even though riding a gondola was in violation of everyone of my instincts, I’d never done it and figured that I could survive the 14 minute round trip.

I didn’t enjoy the trip at all, I’m afraid, even though the views were spectacular!




At the top, I continued up to the Cosmic Ray Station.

I have no problem being that high up when I’m on solid ground!

Coming back down on the gondola, I really impressed myself when I actually turned around and took this picture. EEP!

The ride down was a lot harder than the ride up as the first time around there had been people in the gondola with me and they were able to distract me.

Back on solid ground (and having lost fifteen years off my life), it was time to do the second item on my to-do list, something I found I’m not sure how. I got back onto the Transcanada Highway, then exited at the Bow Valley Parkway where I cruised along until I got to Johnston’s Canyon. It features an amazing hike through a canyon, mostly on cantilevered walkways (non-scary; they’re made of concrete and steel). There is a short hike to the lower falls, a longer one to the higher falls, and very long hike to pools of water known as the ‘Inkpots.’

Making an attempt to reach the Inkpots was no small decision on my part. I’d already hiked 3km uphill to get to the higher falls and it was another 3km uphill to get to the Inkpots. Add to that the climb at Sulphur Mountain and the late hour of the day. This was a case where a good decision could only be made with firm knowledge of one’s abilities. On flat terrain, I can hike 3km in about 30 minutes. Uphill, make that 45 minutes. Uphill and exhausted? Calculate an hour. So, that put me at the Ink Pots around 4. Add a bit of sight seeing, picture taking, and talking to people on the trail and I wouldn’t be back at my car before 5:30. I was dressed for the weather, had enough supplies on me to face a ‘worst case scenario’, and knew that I was smart enough to turn around if I reached my limit. I set off and decided to reevaluate around 3:30. I’d just about had enough by this point, but, thankfully, some hikers came up from the Inkpots right around then and told me it was a downhill shot from where I was standing. I knew I’d have to climb back up again, but that after that I was looking at mainly downhill to get back to the car. I pushed on.

I’m so glad I did. 🙂

The Inkpots





Doing the uphill hike up out of there, I had to keep reminding myself that I could not spend the night on the mountain. Someone was bound to question the car at the trail head and come in search of me! That would have been so humiliating! So, I pressed on and made it back to the trail head for bang on 5:30! There was an ice cream stand open now and I decided to treat myself to a double scoop cone! I’ve only just started to eat ice cream again and I have to say this cone was just fantastic! 🙂

Driving back towards Banff, traffic came to a standstill on the parkway because of these three little guys:

Since I had an hour and a half to go before home and I felt that I’d earned a nice dinner out, I treated myself to salmon and chicken in Banff, then ambled back to my car. I had to stop to take this picture:

I call it ‘Deer on Banff Avenue.’

Oh, wait. That name is taken!


I got home at 8:30; my longest day out as of yet and the first time I’ve been out after dark other than to go to the cinema!

One thing I didn’t get to do today since I went to the Inkpots was to catch a glimpse of Lake Louise. I’ll swing by there on Thursday on my way through the park.

I have two days left here. I had thought to go to Drumheller, but didn’t realise that it’s almost a five hour round trip drive. So, I’ll save Drumheller for the spring. Tomorrow, I’ll go into Calgary for supplies for Operation: Batteries and Wednesday I’ll putter around at home, do laundry, pack, and plan my trip across the Rockies.

I can consider Banff to be the perfect cap to this first portion of my incredible journey. Now, it’s a straight shot to the Osoyoos area (site of the only desert in Canada, not counting the Arctic) where I need to find a place to park my butt as I will be on call for a grape picking job as of Monday!

It seems that even good lives have no shortage of good days.

Day 3
by

Day 3

(I gave my camera a workout today, but Blogger is being a pain, so I’m only sharing a few at this time.)

I took full advantage of my MUNI pass today.

MUNI is, bar none, the best public transportation system I have ever encountered in terms of tourist use. For all I know, it sucks for commuters…. At any rate, it’s really easy to schedule a trip since every bus stop has a map of the transit system and every single stop is announced on the buses. Instead of sitting on the edge of my seat praying I wouldn’t miss my stops, I could sit back and relax.

My first order of business today was to visit my quintessential San Francisco landmark, that is the one thing that tells me that, yes, I’m definitely here. Then, I was going off to the De Young fine art museum. As it turns out, this was really simple and involved two buses, the first one catchable just two blocks from Neil’s. The landmark in question was on the same bus route as De Young, so I just had to hop off a bus, hike to the landmark, take a million pictures of it, then hike back to the bus stop to catch the next one.

Here is my quintessential San Francisco landmark. I’m sure that these gorgeous painted ladies require no introduction!
(squeals with glee at finally seeing them live!)

De Young is located in Golden Gate Park and features recent works of art plus some more contemporary exhibits like haute couture. There is a fantastic 360 degree view of SF from the observation tower.

I wandered a bit around GGP after and found the Japanese Tea Gardens. They were breathtakingly beautiful and the highlight was the Bell Bridge:


So much fun to climb up and down I did it twice!

I wandered around a bit more, discovered the Shakespeare gardens, then decided to head over to the Legion of Honor, accessible with my De Young ticket. I hadn’t planned on how to get there since I assumed that someone at De Young would be able to indicate the way. Nope. I went back to the bus stop where I’d been dropped off and easily mapped out a two transfer route that took me to the Legion of Honor’s front door.

The Legion of Honor was my favourite museum thus far (not counting aquariums). It’s another fine arts museum, but with much older art, including ancient Egyptian sculpture, Estruscan pottery, medieval illuminations, 16th to 18th century furniture (including one of Marie-Antoinette’s sofas), impressionist paintings, and a whole gallery devoted to Rodin. I went through twice! I think my favourite piece was a truly hysterical frieze of Adam and Eve being scolded by god in the garden of Eden. The details were fantastic–the pair holding onto their fig leaves for dear life and god pointing his finger in a way that makes me think he was probably shaking it at them. Here’s one of Rodin’s ‘The Thinker’:
I bussed home after and decided that I really needed to spend a couple of hours off my feet. So, I grabbed Neil’s bike and went for a ride along the bay. This was interesting since he has a man’s style bike with the bar across it and the bike is set about an inch too high for me. So, getting on and off in my skirt was quiiiiite the challenge! The ride really did the trick and it was just so nice to use different muscles. I took a lot of pictures of palm trees today, but this is my favourite one and was taken on my bike ride:I also took a lot of pictures of the bay:

I came back to Fisherman’s Wharf after several miles, locked the bike, and went off in search of the most gluttonous seafood meal I could find involving calamari and shrimp. So, I was quite pleased to stumble on huge calmari body parts (???) stuffed with tiny bay shrimps in a creamy sauce. I think I got about two-thirds of the way through my plate before I had to capitulate. 🙂

Thus ends what will most likely be my last full day in San Francisco. Neil and I are visiting Alcatraz tomorrow, then picking up my rental car so we can go search for nuclear wessels and light houses across the bay. Depending on how late we get back, I’ll most likely be leaving for Vegas tomorrow night. I’d like to get a couple of hours (and miles) under my belt so that I won’t be completely wiped upon arriving there Sunday night.

I could be happy living in this city.

Day 2
by

Day 2

My feet tell me that I definitely over-extended myself today…. 🙂

Unfortunately, I’m still not used to the whole picture thing, so I have tons of pics (and movies) from my morning, but that’s it. I’ll get them on Flickr… eventually.

Here are the day’s highlights, and only highlights because if I put down everything I saw and did, no one will believe that I actually did and saw all of that. It’s been that sort of day. You try to see San Francisco in only two full free days there!

So…

From Neil’s, conveniently located in Russian Hill, near Fisherman’s Wharf and Pier 39, I trekked to:

1) the famous Lombard Street, touted as the crookedest in SF. Apparently, the locals know that’s not true, but the real crookedest street is in an unsavoury part of town…. At any rate, the crooked part of Lombard is beautiful, paved with bricks and immaculately landscaped. I have no idea how residents of this part of the street manage to navigate in and out of their driveways. I’m no photographer, but I think this pic is pretty good!
2) Pier 39. There, I used my CityPass to visit the Aquarium of the Bay. I got a stamp on my hand that would have given me in and out privileges for the day, but I saw everything in one visit and didn’t return later for shows. Highlights included a tunnel surrounded by water in which we could see sea stars, leopard sharks, bat rays, skates, big sea bass, and much more. Very cool. I walked through twice. A highlight of this walk was a display where there was an open skate pouch (‘mermaid’s purse’) with a live developing embryo in it. Followed an awesome touch pool where I got to feel leopard sharks, skates, sea cucumbers, sea stars, urchins, etc. I have to say that except for the sharks, I could have been at a similar establishment on the east coast, the species are that similar.

3) After the aquarium, I had time to catch the 10:45 Bay Cruise, also courtesy of my CityPass. When I got on, I thought it was going to be a bit hokey, but no. We got an awesome tour of the bay, going all the way under the Golden Gate Bridge and then circling Alcatraz (which I’ll be visiting on Saturday with Neil). I took some awesome pictures of the bridge from many angles and most of Alcatraz. The weather was beyond cold and I was so glad I’d brought a sweater. One lady had just a tank top and I swear she was turning blue, until a gentleman took pity on her and handed her his jacket. Some people are just silly. A highlight of the tour was seeing the sea lions of Pier 39 who used to be chased away but are now a tourist attraction (as is just about everything in SF!). The narration (by Jules Verne’s character Captain Nemo, believe it or not) was pretty funny and very informative.

Here is the underside of the Golden Gate Bridge (choosing that one because it’s not a view you often see of this bridge!):
and here is Alcatraz (I can’t wait to be able to remove the people in the foreground from all my Alcatraz pics!):

I was surprised by how beautiful and lush the island is. Saturday’s visit can’t come soon enough!

4) It was noon when we got back and I had just one more stop to make at Pier 39. My CityPass had a bonus ticket for the Boudin Bakery, which produces the most famous sourdough in San Francisco using ‘mother dough’ that’s been fed since the 1800’s! This museum was fabulous and really set the history of the bakery into its historical context. The thing I’ll remember the most is the story of how during the earthquake of 1906 the owner of the bakery had just enough time and presence of mind to scoop the starter into a bucket before running to safety as her business burned to the ground. Saving the starter meant that she could restart her business and, essentially, lost nothing. Now bad for some flour and water! The self-guided tour ended at a tasting room where I got an amazing snack of sour dough, ciabatta, and chocolate and raisin breads, with various toppings like marinated parmesan.

5) My traitorous map made it seem like the Exploratorium was close-by, so I decided to hike there next. Let’s just say I arrived an hour later extremely footsore. 🙂 I hadn’t spent any money yet today (!) so I decided to not look for lunch and just ate at the museum before exploring. The Exploratorium is so much fun. For those in Ottawa, just think of what the Science and Tech museum used to be like, and then multiply the fun factor by at least 1,000. Every single exhibit is interactive and teaches you something about a different branch of science. One of the cooler exhibits were a ‘shadow camera.’ I have no idea how it worked, but a flash of bright light would capture our shadows. Really, really cool effect. There were also some developing chicken embryos in the same style as the skate pouch. I spent a full three hours at this museum until I’d had my fill of fun. I’m such a kid. 🙂 A final note regarding the Exploratorium is an hysterical find at the gift shop–an Einstein action figure. Love it! Coming out, I went around a lovely lagoon bordered by ‘palace’ ruins. I’m adding this so I can mention the only moment I regret not thinking to pull out my camera. A family of mallards was swimming close to shore looking for handouts. In the middle of the family, nonchalantly trying to fit in, was a sea gull. I’ve never seen a gull behave like that and I wasn’t the only one to find the sight pretty damn funny!

6) I was completely burnt out by this point, but I had a rogue ticket left in my book for a downtown attraction. The other two were for Golden Gate Park. I wasn’t sure I’d have time to see the downtown one any other day and it was open till 8:45 today. Since it’s something I wouldn’t have paid to see, I decided that a half-assed, ‘been there, done’ that tour would be sufficient. Which it was. You see, I’m not a fan of modern art, as in the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (or SFMoMA for cute). Now, there were some things I actually liked and I really enjoyed the Martin Munkasci photograph exhibit, but, otherwise, modern art exasperates me!!! The big going on today was the ‘Matisse as sculptor’ exhibit, but I just breezed through it since I’m not a huge fan of Matisse. At any rate, I did the SFMoMA in 45 minutes flat and I can’t imagine I would have spent more time there had I not been so burnt. I’m embarrassed to admit that the best part of going to the SFMoMA was the LONG bus ride from the Exploratorium. Hey, I can’t like everything!

7) After dinner at a nearby diner I realised that I wasn’t going to be able to walk home, so I hired a cab. Now, that’s exhaustion for you.

My left little toe is currently double its normal size thanks to an impressive blister and my SPF 60 failed me around mid-day, so I’m a tad cooked (but not burned, thankfully) and very footsore. What an amazing day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I’ll just add that Neil came home with an impressive earthquake survival kit, given to him by Google. Obviously, Google knows something we don’t know, and I’m quite nervous. 🙂

by

Traveling to and Arrival in Scotland

Wednesday June 10th, 1998 6:52 pm

I’m on flight 425 to Toronto, waiting for takeoff. I’m so nervous! Everything’s gone well so far, though. (My mother) and Grand-maman (who insisted on coming) took me out for supper. I tried a ‘Rickard Red’ beer. It’s… red! And delicious. Both agreed it would loosen me up but wear off by the time I got on the plane. They were right! I suppose that my nervousness comes from the fact that this is my first major trip where I’ll have only myself to rely on. I guess I’d feel better if I hadn’t listened to (my mother) and booked my bed at the Glasgow youth hostel. Anyhoo, I’m getting there early. If worse comes to worse I’ll have time to go to Paisley (!) Or Milgavie (pronounced ‘Mullguy’) and sleep there.

It’s so… peaceful here. Soothing music is playing. The setting sun comes through my window in golden rays. I feel that my whole life has come together, it’s all existed to reach this point in time. Yes, it’s like everything I’ve done in my life has lead up to this moment. It’s my hour, my month, and my dream. It’s up to me whether or not it becomes a nightmare. Think good thoughts! If this is a dream, it’ll be the best dream of my life, so there!

8:41

Waiting patiently for my 9:30 connection. [Everything’s going off without a hitch! It was funny, landing in Toronto, the new developments look like models of houses!]

The flight to Toronto was wonderful. The pressure I felt was minimal thanks to a bit of gum and some ginger ale! We even got free cheese flavoured ‘Sun Chips’.  At one point, we were flying between two levels of clouds. Our optimum altitude was about 35,000 feet. (My mother) bought me 3 magazines and I read one, as well as a terrific short story by (my best friend at the time).  So far so good.

9:17

I’m nestled quite comfortably in my seat for the flight to Glasgow. This time I knew how the seat belt worked! Why I don’t remember from last time is beyond me! Later.

July 11th, 1998 6:25 Glasgow time

The sun is rising over the Atlantic in golden pink magnificence.

8:16 GT

The food (I got my vegetarian option) has been delicious! I got an hour snoozet after seeing ‘The Man in the Iron Mask’. Now, the clouds have cleared. ‘The wrinkled sea beneath him crawls’.

map

12:36 GT

[I am so discouraged!!!] Nothing is going as I ‘planned’. Haggis (the operator of the jump on/jump off tour I followed the first half plus a bit of my journey) is picking me up at 4:30 tomorrow. I’ll be sleeping in Edinburgh tomorrow night. I guess I’ll be doing my circuit backwards, backtracking to Edinburgh for the 27th. I’ll do Ben Nevis later rather than earlier. Now that I’m putting this down on paper, I’m getting more relaxed. I mean I’m here aren’t I? (The Glasgow youth hostel that is?) Unfortunately, I won’t have access to my bed until 2:00. Since I’ll be ‘stuck here’ till tomorrow, I think I’ll just stay in this afternoon (maybe I’ll feel different once I’m clean and changed) and get an early night! I’ve already spent the £20 allocated to today on bus to the city, bus to the hostel, bed (£11.50) and £5 phone card. I’ll pull out £5 and try to get some dinner. I did say £25 a day. It’s understandable that the first day is a little more expensive.

I must say that my first view of Scotland was breathtakingly beautiful. It’s so lush and green and hilly! I saw Loch Lomond from above. Unfortunately, fatigue and stress are masking any joy I should be feeling. To be honest, I’d give my right arm to be in my bed right now! But this is only the first day. It’ll most likely get better once I’m out in the country.

I sat next to a really nice woman on the plane. She’s from Calgary, but she’s lived in Scotland. She told me lots of great stories. She also gave me a card so that I can contact her if I have any questions.

Actually, I think that once I get access to my room, I’ll go straight to bed! I’m not in a mood to go anywhere. I’d better perk up soon, I have ‘I’m-so-enthusiastic-I-never-want-to-leave’ postcards to send! Yes, I’m sure that the picture will be brighter in the morning.

I’m in Scotland. It looks a lot like home (one part on the way from the airport looked like the 10 near St. Lambert!), but it feels different. Glasgow has yet to impress me. What I’ve seen is dirty. I said the same thing about New York, and you know how I loved N.Y.C.!

I’m enjoying using £’s and p’s, etc. ‘They’ have half-pound coins. Their shape is funny! I have no change left for tomorrow. I’m going to get more cash tomorrow afternoon since I don’t know how the banks and ATMs are on the weekend. (You can use the ATM’s seven days a week, but not every bank will accept a withdrawl from an overseas account. I had the best luck with the Clydesdale bank. By taking out money once a week, I only used cash for my trip and I had very little on me at all times, most of which I kept in a secret pouch next to my skin. The exchange rate was actually better than what was offered in ‘bureau de change’ and the exchange from dollars to pounds was made automatically and immediately.)

I’m going to be okay. I know I am. But right now I’m tired, dirty, and probably hungry, only I’m to tired to go in search of food. Maybe a short nap!

3:06 GT

Everything’s going to be okay. This is a very nice hostel. My £11.50 includes sleepsack and pillowcase as well as breakfast. We have a private shower and toilet. I just took a shower. Unfortunately, it was ice cold! I do feel much better now! Totally excited and ready to do some serious sight seeing! Amazing what a change of clothes can do!

There are white clouds, but boy is it sunny! (It was so sunny my first week I actually got a minor sunburn!)

7:02 pm (from now on, unless otherwise mentioned, G.T.)

I did about 3 hours worth of walking this afternoon. I made it to the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum and had one hour to wander around the unimpressive exhibits. Oh, there was interesting stuff, but nothing new except for a painting of Burns. Unfortunately, ‘Massacre at Glencoe’ was no longer on exhibit. Figures.

I then got myself purposely lost searching for food without a map. I eventually ended up buying a cheap (but delicious and filling) veggie burger at the European (or at least Scottish) equivalent of a fast food joint. But here there’s little fast but rather lots of courtesy and edible food.   ‘When in doubt, do as the locals do’ and it was obvious that the owner had ‘regulars’. Sure, the place was kind of seedy. Who cares? When I got out of there, nibbling on my very yummy potato/cheese/chive burger, I was caught by an unexpected spill of rain (ain’t that poetic?) The rain came down really weirdly, it looked and felt like long filaments of water rather than individual droplets.

Some observations:

  • the toilets flush on the other side
  • the toilets only eat half the amount of t.p. the North American toilets eat
  • there are no stop signs! (I saw perhaps a half dozen during my whole stay!)
  • driving on the left makes for confusing street corners and circulation patterns
  • although I don’t eat many at home, the ‘Snickers’ bar tastes a little different here. I could pinpoint it only if I had a blind taste test or something
  • Glasgow’s layout is confusing, you think you’re going straight, but you’re actually going around in circles!

Glasgow’s endearing, it’s actually growing on me! It’s sort of a cross between Montreal (cosmopolitan, architecture), Quebec City (hills, architecture), Ottawa (feeling of intimacy, architecture)!

I figured out why most of Scotland’s cities appear to be built on hills. Coming from a new country it is easy to forget that her towns have been around for millennia, and were originally built on top of hills for defence purposes. Eventually, the towns spilled down the hillside.

I’ll see more of it tomorrow as I’ll explore (drumroll please) the City Centre! It’s kind of silly, in a way, that I’ll have to lug my butt down there with all my luggage and then have to lug it all the way back here to catch Haggis. I think I’ll take a bus back, though. This way, I’ll have more time. Unfortunately, I didn’t make it to the Museum of Transportation, but it’ll be way out of my way tomorrow, it seems. I’ll recheck the map, though.

Did I mention I made my first telephone call today, to Edinburgh? It wasn’t nearly as expensive nor as complicated as I would have thought. Besides, my £5 phone card is somehow worth £6! I have Bank of Clydesdale notes. They aren’t very attractive (except for the twenties, which have a lovely likeness of Robert the Bruce on them !) I think I’ll go to bed now. The water here is really quite good. My only complaint is that I’m either too hot or too cold. (note to self: bring long sleeved tee-shirts next time! (little did I know I would head this advice during my 2016 trip to London!))