Oh, Crap!

I was invited by my friends L&N to attend a tournament of “Crap!” on the beach today with a bunch of other people. Thankfully, I was able to shuffle my schedule around so I could go. It was a great four hours on Chivos Beach, Isla’s best kept secret. It is that because the bay there  is super tranquil for swimming and there’s almost never anyone there. The weather was perfect to be sitting under the sun for the afternoon, just hot enough with a cool breeze. The bright blue water was chilly, though!

My place in relation to Palapa Mirador on Chivos.

My place in relation to Palapa Mirador on Chivos.

What is “Crap!” you may ask? Well, having attended and played, I’m pretty sure the best description is that it’s a beach sport that is rather a cross of curling, darts, shuffleboard, pockets, and the entertainment of watching a jousting tournament. A large target is drawn in the sand and you have to hit it with stones from a certain distance, with the rings of the target determining how many points you get. First one to get to 21 points without going over wins the round.

There was about a dozen of us and N had everything organised very well. Pairs of players would go and the winner would go on to the next round, then repeat that until there were only two champions. I did really well in my first round, but choked on my last turn and lost by a point! So I was just a spectator after.

There is a nice restaurant at Chivos Beach called Palapa Mirador so we had tables with food and beverage service. The server there is a Canadian and she has done a nice write up about the restaurant and the beach, so go to her blog for the pictures I neglected to take. 🙂 I have to laugh at her comment about the bathrooms having real doors when the toilets have no seats!

I had four Pacifico Lights and the coconut shrimp over the course of the afternoon. The meal was excellent although the shrimp were not as coconutty as those at the restaurants on this side (but also much less expensive) and didn’t have a dipping sauce. I wound up making tacos out of my meal and loading on the Valentina “hot” sauce, which isn’t hot at all.

What a great afternoon for just $200, plus a very generous tip for our hardworking server! A Monday afternoon on the beach is pretty normal, but a Wednesday is a luxurious treat that reminds me of just how lucky I am to have so much freedom — and how smart I am to be here in paradise instead of freezing my butt off in Saskatchewan!

A Day Full of Treasures

I decided to split up the work due tomorrow so that I could take this afternoon and tomorrow morning off. I wanted to go to town to try a restaurant, the reviews for which I stumbled upon on Trip Advisor, and also go to the bank and the grocery store. Tomorrow is riding, of course. 🙂

I wound covering a lot of ground today! Here’s a bird’s eye view (click to embiggen).

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I started by walking from the embaracadero to Parisina in Centro (red line at the bottom). Parisina is a chain of fabric stores. I wanted something to cover the surfaces in the office because, surprise, a plastic table cloth was unsuitable to cover a desk in a hot humid climate! I forgot just how inexpensive fabric is in Mexico and realised as I browsed that I didn’t have to get something that would to have have another purpose later because I would be paying so little.

I wound up with some super cheap cotton in colours that sort of match the bedspreads on the twin beds in the office:

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I love the purple flowers and that’s quite probably my favourite shade of blue. It was only $40 (3.25CAD or 2.50USD) for two metres! Aesthetics were the only reason to cover the tables. This house is like a prison, with its neutral colours and the bars on the windows, so it’s proven very difficult to make it cozy and homey. This year, I’m adding colour where I can and that is making a huge difference to how happy I am in the house.

I then crossed the street (Benito Juárez) to catch the bus to the Golden Zone. The Sábalo-Cocos ‘local’ bus passed before the ‘tourist’ bus that goes up Avenida del Mar and that was my sign that it was finally time to figure out this bus route because it’s the one that goes by the big Waldo and passes Soriana (multiple ones, I was to learn), Home Depot, and Mega. The ‘local’ buses are super uncomfortable, with hard plastic seats that are so close to the ones in front that my knees are bruised from the ride, but the cost is only $7 versus the $10 for the tourist bus.

Go back up to the map to see the ride I got taken on (blue)! It was a long one, but very educational. What really impressed me is that I knew where I was at all times and was able to correctly guess when we were about to turn onto Rafael Buelna. Now, I know that I can catch this bus at the big Ley or Waldo, or even Soriana or Mega, and take it back down to Juan Carrasco/Gutiérrez Najera if I have only a bit of shopping and don’t mind walking from the intersection to the embarcadero. But the route is way too long to make it worth taking it back from Soriana or Mega with a ton of groceries.

Once we hit Camarón Sábalo, I knew to get off in the vicinity of Panamá so I could head to Playa Gaviotas.

I’ve seen the ads for this guy a few times. I doubt his name is truly Dr. Backman, but, then again, I once knew an electrician named Yvan Laprise (literally sounds like the French for “he sells the electrical outlet”), so who knows!

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The restaurant didn’t open till 1:00 and it was about 12:30, so I wandered around in super touristy Mazatlán, saying “No gracias” a lot to vendors.

Being so early, I decided to check out the “Seashell Museum” (Museo de Conchas), which is really a store full of tchotchkes, with some tiny exhibits upstairs. But you HAVE to go there because of the fountain! I think I stared at it for a full 10 minutes and I’m very annoyed I only had my crappy iPhone camera to capture it!

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That fountain is a Work of Art. I couldn’t find an inch of it that didn’t absolutely delight me. If I were ever to buy a home by the sea, I would commission an artist to build something like this with seashells for me, perhaps a bathroom counter.

Then, I wandered around in the general area looking for the restaurant, Zab Thai. The address and the claim that it is near the Seashell Museum helped me narrow things down a bit, but it was extremely hard to find. I asked a few people, but no one could be bothered to help if I wasn’t a customer. I finally had the bright idea of putting other businesses into Google so I could essentially triangulate the location I needed and found Zab Thai at the end of a very lonely looking alley:

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An alley that leads to a beach:

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An alley that holds another business named “Lucky Bastard”!

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I went into the restaurant, which had an English menu but a server who was quite happy to serve me in Spanish. They had just opened and I was the only one there. They apparently do more takeout than eat-in business. The reviews I’d read claimed that Zab Thai is the place to go for authentic Thai in Maz.

I just ordered the chicken Pad Thai, but asked for two stars of spiciness out of three (!) and, for the first time, requested no egg. Pad Thai is something that I crave all the time, but which I haven’t had much luck finding to my taste in quite a while. I can’t articulate what it is about Pad Thai that makes it to my taste or not, I just know what I like.

When the meal arrived, it was alarmingly red:

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(I can’t believe I’m still traumatized by that ketchupy Pad Thai I had on Jarvis Street in Toronto 15 years ago! :D)

I took a tentative bite and almost fell out of my seat. This Pad Thai was perfect. The flavours were just right and I think the red might have come from Sriracha, with the spice level being just right for me. When it was a bit too much, I nibbled on some of the cabbage. I do have to say the chicken was a bit bland, but that’s just being nitpicky. I can’t believe I found this meal in Mexico. I’m pretty sure this Pad Thai is the third best I’ve ever had, after the ones at Siam or Bangkok Palace in Ottawa, Ontario, and the one at the Starfire in Skagway, Alaska! Pad Thai with chicken or pork was just $95! I think with shrimp or a mix was $115. Either price is a bargain for such a great Pad Thai. I find it interesting that two of the best I’ve ever had have been in such tourist trappy-type destinations.

Then, it was time to go to the bank (red route at the top). On the way, I passed this place that has never been open before and so I’ve never noticed it:

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That’s a drive-thru beer pickup place, folks. And I thought ‘Muricans are ridiculous (and terrifying) for having drive-thru liquor stores…

I cut across the McDonald’s parking lot and came across this RV from France!

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I actually waited a few minutes, hoping to catch the drivers, but gave up.

The walk-in ATM at Scotiabank was down, but, thankfully, their drive-thru one worked. My landlady is going to be so happy to get her December rent early. I don’t think I paid December rent till the 15th or even 20th last year (which I had told her on the day I moved in and she was okay with).

Look at what Soriana had: LEMONS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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But check out the price compared to the little round limes:

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The Persian limes that look like green lemons were $14 a kilo, still a much better deal. That picture was worse than the one above. I have no idea how people take lovely pictures with their iPhones…

I decided to take a chance and buy some meat (went with hamburger) and saw this in the freezer. I don’t think I’ve ever seen rabbit sold at the grocery store before!

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One of the things on my list was chocolate almond milk for a recipe, but they didn’t have any on the shelf, which surprised me since the little Ley has it and Soriana had every iteration of the plain. A store clerk tapped me on the shoulder, had me turn around, pointed to a pallet in the centre of the aisle, and told me they were having a two-for-one sale on almond milk, one plain bundled with one chocolate!!! $44 for two containers was a steal! I started stocking almond milk last summer for cereal and am glad it’s so inexpensive, even here in Mexico, since I’ll be able to use it to make fruit smoothies!

From Soriana, I took a taxi (green) back to the embaradero. I decided to walk home on this side, sorely underestimating how heavy my shopping was (thanks to the beer I bought in town, which I’ve never done, because I knew the City Deli would be closed, and the almond milk). But there was a ton of traffic (possible funeral procession), so I actually wound up getting home faster than I would have in a taxi, even with all my rest stops!

It’s been a rich, full day!

Scenes From Isla

Today is the annual celebration for the Ejido community and there has been loud partying going on since around 6:00 this morning! I headed out around 10:00 for a walk around the main part of Isla, to see what was going on today and what has changed in the last year.

This was a vacant lot at the end of my street last winter. Big house going u p now!

This was a vacant lot at the end of my street last winter. Big house going up now!

Low tide on an almost deserted beach. Looking towards Isla de Chivas and the Faro.

Low tide on an almost deserted beach. Looking towards Isla de Chivas and the Faro.

Lety's and Victor's restaurants. Haven't been to Victor's yet.

Lety’s and Victor’s restaurants. Haven’t been to Victor’s yet.

More restaurants I haven't been to. Osuna is new. I really should make it a point to try each one!

More restaurants I haven’t been to. Osuna is new. I really should make it a point to try each one!

The vendors were listening to music since there really weren't many customers.

The vendors were listening to music since there really weren’t many customers.

More restaurants.

More restaurants.

The oyster seller was there last year.

The oyster seller was there last year.

I enjoyed watching the large ships in harbour.

I enjoyed watching the large ships in harbour.

And looking at Icebox Hill. Exploring it should be on my to-do list for the winter!

And looking at Icebox Hill. Exploring it should be on my to-do list for the winter!

I also had fun watching the crabs. I had no idea they can jump! This guy was like Spiderman, jumping and crawling up stuff!

I also had fun watching the crabs. I had no idea they can jump! This guy was like Spiderman, jumping and crawling up stuff!

I paused to get a $10 Solero bar, which is a high end fruit juice popsicle. This one was lime. Very refreshing!

I paused to get a $10 Solero bar, which is a high end fruit juice popsicle. This one was lime. Very refreshing!

Gobs of (Mexican) tourists) getting on a tour tractor.

Gobs of (Mexican) tourists) getting on a tour tractor.

There is going to be a parade, so there were a lot of floats.

There is going to be a parade, so there were a lot of floats.

A big chunk of Calle Principal was blocked off near the school for a party. Lots of tables and chairs under open tents and musicians were setting up.

A big chunk of Calle Principal was blocked off near the school for a party. Lots of tables and chairs under open tents and musicians were setting up.

Where did you recently see something similar?

Where did you recently see something similar?

The new paint job on the tortillería's looks great!

The new paint job on the tortillería looks great!

New restaurant that I'll need to try. They sell tortas, which I have never had.

New restaurant that I’ll need to try. They sell tortas, which I have never had.

There's a carnival inside the baseball stadium.

There’s a carnival inside the baseball stadium.

Looks like fun for the kids!

Looks like fun for the kids!

I used to love going to these things when I was a kid.

I used to love going to these things when I was a kid.

Patty's defunct restaurant is under renovations. I wonder if she's gone for good or just redecorating. I miss her $40 burger and *real* fries!

Patty’s defunct restaurant is under renovations. I wonder if she’s gone for good or just redecorating. I miss her $40 burger and *real* fries!

These pretty flowers smelled divine!

These pretty flowers smelled divine!

The mechanic has been very busy. I'll stop in next week and see if he can fit me in to look at my clutch.

The mechanic has been very busy. I’ll stop in next week and see if he can fit me in to look at my clutch.

The butcher shop made a nice sign in honour of the festivities.

The butcher shop made a nice sign in honour of the festivities.

Very different setup inside than last year. Looks like they're expanding into a full service abbarotes and not just doing meat.

Very different setup inside than last year. Looks like they’re expanding into a full service abbarotes and not just doing meat.

No sign of chicken at 11:45 means no chicken. :(

No sign of chicken at 11:45 means no chicken. 🙁

Amazing work done on this house since I was last here, but I don't like the glass railing.

Amazing work done on this house since I was last here, but I don’t like the glass railing.

One thing that surprised me about buildings here is that their main electrical breaker panel is outside!

One thing that surprised me about buildings here is that their main electrical breaker panel is outside!

My neighbour's horses headed to work.

My neighbour’s horses headed to work.

Another neighbour is using a child's car seat to hold up the clothes line on her roof!

Another neighbour is using a child’s car seat to hold up the clothes line on her roof!

This same neighbour has opened up a restaurant of sorts.

This same neighbour has opened up a restaurant of sorts.

A Surprising End to the Day

I had a busy and good work day, thanks to my no longer being worried about running down the truck battery. By 2:00, I was more than ready to shut down the computer so I could take advantage of the cloudy and cooler conditions today to head for the Malecón. But I had no sooner turned onto the main part of my road that I saw this coming down the street in my direction:

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That’s a TelMex truck, folks. As in an internet provider truck. As in I turned right around when I saw my landlady walking behind it. Well, first, I waved at her to confirm that I had this, and then I turned around.

It was the same guy as last year (!) and he was just as lovely. Since the cabling was already installed, it was very quick for him to get me online and he was gone by 3:30ish.

It was too late to go to Maz by this point (since it gets dark around 5:00 and I wanted time to have lunch and a long walk), so I instead went for lunch at Lety’s on the beach here. Shrimp quesadillas with beer and totopos. Is there such thing as bad food in Mexico?!

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I think Lety’s is going to be my go-to beach restaurant from now on. The service isn’t as good as at El Velero, but the similarly priced food is several notches better. I would have been happy with just the rice, salad, and pico de gallo on this plate!

Can you see the lime green slice of fruit on my plate? That’s an orange. I only learned very recently that oranges can be green and still perfectly ripe, but they are all artificially forced to turn orange for folks in non-orange growing places who couldn’t wrap their brains around that. At any rate, I had no idea what I was about to bite into and was pleasantly surprised by the very sweet orange flavour!

I’m pretty sure today was the last one at this pace for a bit because I now have no excuse to get back to my other clients. But if I can steal an hour or two a day just to sit on the beach with a beer, if not a meal, it’ll still be an improvement over last year!

Now, to start catching up on my online stuff backlog…

Last Dinner at Miguel’s

I was shocked by how quickly the packing and cleaning came together when that was all I had to focus on! By 6:15, I only had a few things left that would best be done when I was finished with the house and ready to leave it. The truck was packed with everything but a few odds and ends and the only major cleaning left to do was a final pass of the floors with a mop.

I didn’t wash the walls, but otherwise did a deep clean of the entire house, including all the bars on the windows and moving furniture to get behind it. Since the house was spotless when I moved in and I’ve been pretty much keeping on top of the cleaning, there were no scary surprises except the tarantula habitat under the twin bed in the office and the gecko habitat in one of the end tables in the office as well. 🙂

Around 6:30, I put a beer in my purse (ain’t I classy?) and headed to Miguel’s for a final dinner on Isla. As the fates would have it, my nasty former yardmate was there, too. She was finishing up and did an excellent job of ignoring me, and I did the same. 🙂

I ordered my favourites, a shrimp burrito and a chorreada. The burrito is always consistent, the quality of the chorreada varies. I have yet to have one that was as good as the first one, but tonight’s was very good and not salty like one I had a while back that almost turned me off of them. I like the layer of browned cheese and tonight there were chopped tomatoes on top, which I loved. Sides were bare today, though, just sliced cucumbers. The total cost was 57 pesos, and I gave a tip. I won’t find 10-15USD meals cheap next month!

My neighbour to the rear of me was dining with his family and we caught up. I was surprised that his wife and children do not speak much Spanish.

I chatted with Miguel while waiting to pay and I got some insight into the rather laissez-faire laid back Mexican attitude as he said something to me a lot of people have been saying to me this week: “God willing.” I’ll be back in November. “God willing.” I’m driving home. “God willing.” I’ll see you again soon. “God willing.” I also believe in fate, to a point, so this point of view is not entirely strange to me, but I don’t take it to that extreme. God willing if I make an effort, and all that.

Coming home, I realised that I should probably hit the beach one last time. I used to be such an ocean girl, but not anymore. I’m not sad in the least about leaving the ocean for several months and look forward to the vistas of my endless Prairies.

I really do want to try to hit the road early, so I’m going to try to wind down and get to sleep early. I’ve decided for sure to do the libre to Culiacán, so I really can’t dawdle. But I have to 8PM to get to San Carlos in daylight, so even a 7AM departure, while tight, should make that possible. I’ll evaluate my ETA throughout the day and make other plans if it looks like I won’t get there.

Their best item is prominently on display!

Their best item is prominently on display!

The menu is written on every surface of the restaurant.

The menu is written on every surface of the restaurant.

Here's yet another one.

Here’s yet another one.

Basically, they can make you anything you want. :)

Basically, they can make you anything you want. 🙂

This is where the beef is cooked and then it's carried half way across the restaurant with tongs. Never fails to make me smile.

This is where the beef is cooked and then it’s carried half way across the restaurant with tongs. Never fails to make me smile.

ATVs are a very popular mode of transportation on Isla. People bring them over on the pangas!

ATVs are a very popular mode of transportation on Isla. People bring them over on the pangas!

Lots of pretty flowers in bloom this week.

Lots of pretty flowers in bloom this week.

Looking toward the interior part of Isla where I live.

Looking toward the interior part of Isla where I live.

I dined within view of a mango tree.

I dined within view of a mango tree.

Mexican condiments: salt, lime, hot sauce, and guacamole (a very thin avocado-based sauce).

Mexican condiments: salt, lime, hot sauce, and guacamole (a very thin avocado-based sauce).

So pretty and goes on everything.

So pretty and goes on everything.

Dinner!

Dinner!

I think these guys understand cameras. They were playing and as soon as I pulled out my Pentax, they posed for me. I was allowed to take two pictures, then they were off!

I think these guys understand cameras. They were playing and as soon as I pulled out my Pentax, they posed for me. I was allowed to take two pictures, then they were off!

Final Isla sunset.

Final Isla sunset.