Semana Santa: Wednesday on the Beach

This week is Semana Santa (Holy Week) and the Mexicans are on holidays. I was warned that the beach will be standing room only by the weekend and that I should plan to hunker down. I decided that since today is likely to be the last day before the madness truly starts, I would go check out what was what on the beach.

IMGP1011

Shade is a precious commodity on a hot beach! These palapas were built for Semana Santa.

IMGP1012

Pretty quiet at my end of the beach.

IMGP1013

Quite a hill of sand. We’ve been having HIGH tides!

All the vendors and signage are for Mexicans, not Gringos, most of whom have left already anyway. It’s nice to be in such a touristy area and still experience something authentically Mexican.

IMGP1014

Teepees for rent.

IMGP1015

20 pesos PER HOUR!

IMGP1016

Getting busier.

IMGP1019

People were out in the water after several days of bad waves.

I will confess I was getting flashbacks to the movie Jaws, just before the Kintner boy is killed…

IMGP1020

A quiet stretch.

IMGP1021

You can buy all manner of beach toys.

IMGP1022

And beach clothes.

IMGP1023

More floaty things and pails.

IMGP1024

I’d only buy ceviche from a guy with a cooler at the start of the day…

IMGP1025

Surprisingly quiet at this end of the beach (near the climb to the panga).

IMGP1026

Finally, a chance to photograph this sign as a reminder to Google what the heck tejuino and tuba are!

Tejuino is a fermented drink made from corn juice. Tuba is palm wine. So both are very mildly alcoholic concoctions.

IMGP1027

Rent tables, bathrooms, and… watering cans? Sprinklers?

IMGP1028

Very few Gringos on the beach.

To my surprise, I saw my friend N playing in the surf, so I joined her, glad I was wearing suitable clothing for that! I had a few things to discuss with her, so that worked out really well.

IMGP1029

I was curious about raspado and picked a vendor at random.

I don’t normally bring money on my walks, but I had thought to stop at a restaurant for a limonada mineral and so had a little cash. Instead of waiting for ages at one of the crowded restaurants, I decided to check out what a ‘raspado’ is at there were a lot of vendors for them. I knew that shaved ice was involved.

That’s the base and you can add fruit juice with chunks of fruit, spices, caramel, sweetened condensed milk and more. I asked for a simple pineapple one and the cost was 20 pesos. Folks who got caramel and milk paid 25 to 30 pesos.

The ice comes in a huge block that is kept in a garbage bag. There’s a tool for shaving it that also collects the shavings into a neat shape that can be easily packed into a glass.

The man spoke some English, but was happy to switch to Spanish and said, “You must be Canadian.” I asked how he knew and he said that it’s easy. According to him, the Americans never buy from food carts, but Canadians often do. I shrugged and said that I’ve been here for almost six months and the food has yet to make me sick, much less kill me!

The raspado was wonderful and refreshing, with a generous amount of pineapple. I may seek him out again to try a prune one!

IMGP1030

Chunks of fruit (pineapple) with syrup over shaved ice. Very refreshing!

As I was reaching my turn off to go home, Paco, the jewellery vendor, came up to me and said, in English, “I’m not selling, just want you to look at more snake rings.” I did and didn’t like what he had as they were much bigger than the one I bought, which is already the limit of how big a ring I’ll wear since I have to be able to type with it. He proved to me that he really wasn’t trying to sell when he said, “Okay. See you again soon,” and turned to leave.

So I surprised him by asking if he had earrings, he opened up his case, I had a gander, and we struck a deal for delicate dragonflies with iridescent blue stones that he again confirmed are not real silver, but which are lovely nonetheless. He was really surprised and pleased to make a sale!

I’m glad I got a peek at what Semana Santa is like on the beach, but I’m not convinced I’ll be heading there over the weekend, other than to perhaps sneak a few pictures from a distance!

A Long Beach Walk

S, one of my riding buddies, suggested we do a long beach walk today. We were originally going to make a full day of it by going to the Estrella del mar golf course (about 20 miles/32KM round trip), but she’s leaving this week and didn’t have time. Instead, she suggested we do the four hour round trip walk to ‘the washrooms.’ I’d heard about them as being the turnoff point for people driving the beach to get to town, but hadn’t seen them so I figured that was a good destination. Yes, walking to the bathrooms in the middle of nowhere. Do I know how to have fun or what?!

IMGP0992

These helicopters are scouting for tuna!

Very low in the sky.

Very low in the sky.

Very, very low!

Very, very low!

We took off barefoot at 10:30, with the tide starting to come in and just walked and gabbed and walked and gabbed till we got to the washrooms. They were open and I really needed to pee, so I decided to check them out. To my immense surprise, they were clean (albeit grungy), with paper, soap, water, and brand new seats! ๐Ÿ˜€

The waves were carving out the beach.

The waves were carving out the beach.

Bathroom oasis in the distance.

Bathroom oasis in the distance.

The walk back seemed quicker and the waves were really coming in fast and furious, nearly knocking us off our feet a few times. On the way in we had met a Mexican friend of S who explained that the waves get like this every year around this time and that it has something to do with the rotation of the earth. It happens between the end of March and the beginning of June and announces the start of the rainy season, although there’s always a few weeks reprieve before that happens. Fascinating! I love meeting people who have lived in a place all their lives and know the climate so well. So if what he said is true, I might have rain before I leave…

I love this grove of short and plump coconut palms.

I love this grove of short and plump coconut palms.

A few more high tides and this one will be done.

A few more high tides and this one will be done.

When S and I got back to the populated part of the beach, we ran into our horse guide, who greeted us with a big hug. We told him about our adventure and he laughed and called us his crazy Canadian gals for walking to a bathroom of all places for no reason but exercise. A lot of the Mexicans I’ve met don’t seem to get the idea of walking for the sake of walking and I wonder if that’s a cultural thing or if I just met a cluster of people who get enough exercise in their daily life to not need to seek it out.

It was a great walk, but the bit from the beach to home on the HOT sand was very ouchy! I could have put my flip flops in a backpack, but I really didn’t feel like carrying them. My feet are much tougher than they were when I got here, though.

I came in and took a shower to wash the salt and sand from between my toes, then made lunch. Which will be the subject of my next post later today since S brought me a Mexican delicacy!

A Routine I Could Get Used To

Yesterday, I received a large project due late Monday. I divided it into chunks that would allow for days of reasonable length, time to see Dale one last time if she was free, and, of course, riding on Mondays.

I’ve been going to bed really early, catching up on a few weeks of short nights, and was up at 5:00 this morning and at work by 6:00. I pretty much powered through my day, with short, but regular breaks, including catching the 6:30 tortilla delivery!

By 3:00 I had not only completed the work I wanted to do today, but also made inroads on tomorrow’s. My back was sore and I decided it was time to quit since there was absolutely no reason to kill myself over this job. Time for a walk!

Rather than head for the beach, I took off for Goat Island for a change of scenery. On the way there, I passed the new mini supermarket and saw that they had a sandwich board outside advertising frozen treats. I decided to pop in to see if they by any chance had any chocolate ice cream. The offerings were slim, but they had a chocolate ice cream drumstick that fit my craving perfectly. At 21 pesos it was cheap enough for me not to balk, but expensive enough for me to not make a habit of it!

My knee being very sore, I decided not to climb Goat Island today. Instead, I circled back to the main road in the opposite direction of the mountain, following the coast line, where I discovered a cove with a lovely beach in front of the Pizza Benji restaurant. I watched a father and daughter build an impressive sand castle for a few minutes.

When I got in, I spent some time reading, made dinner, and crashed with a movie. It’s now 8:30 and definitely bedtime, I’m almost embarrassed to admit. Hopefully, I’ll be able to keep up that work pace tomorrow and finish early again.

Horseback Riding, Safari, and Language Lessons

Well, it’s been another amazing day on Isla! I went riding for the second time and our one hour ride turned into TWO! Wow! We were taken all over Isla to the point that most of us were completely lost. Remember, Isla is not actually an island and there is a lot of ground to cover!

We started on the beach.

Heading onto the beach for the first part of the ride. We did lots of cantering!

Heading onto the beach for the first part of the ride. We did lots of cantering!

Love low tide on the beach.

Love low tide on the beach.

What a great surface for a canter!

What a great surface for a canter!

As if any reminders were needed that I have the best life ever. :D

As if any reminders were needed that I have the best life ever. ๐Ÿ˜€

And then we headed inland.

Heading into the coconut grove.

Heading into the coconut grove.

We saw several coati (tรฉjรณn). Our guide was adamant that they are not raccoons and I look forward to telling him next week that they are in the same family as raccoons. ๐Ÿ™‚

Fields of squash.

Fields of squash.

And then our ride turned into a safari. I wasn’t very quick with the camera, unfortunately.

We passed a turtle.

We passed a turtle.

Mrs. (?) Turtle posed for a picture.

Mrs. (?) Turtle posed for a picture.

I saw cranes and FLAMINGOS here!

I saw cranes and FLAMINGOS here!

I saw where mangoes come from!

Heading into the mango grove.

Heading into the mango grove.

It felt like a whole other world in there!

It felt like a whole other world in there!

The mangoes are just starting to come in.

The mangoes are just starting to come in.

We did some literal bushwhacking:

Heading into the bush. Our guide was ahead hacking a path with a machete!

Heading into the bush. Our guide was ahead hacking a path with a machete!

These cacti looked like an alien creature.

These cacti looked like an alien creature.

We came to a part of Isla that was once used for playing baseball.

We emerged on a flood plain.

We emerged on a flood plain.

The remains of a horse.

The remains of a horse.

More of the alien cacti.

More of the alien cacti.

Coconut graveyard.

Coconut graveyard.

We passed a people graveyard.

The old cemetery.

The old cemetery.

And came to a new graveyard. I was riding in the back and the guide yelled out “Chica that speakay Spani, comay translate!’ (with all due respect to him and his accent!). We all joked that our rides are just a cover for language lessons!

The new cemetery. The folks resting here are all immediate family of our guide.

The new cemetery. The folks resting here are all immediate family of our guide.

Those of us who had been to New Orleans were reminded of its graveyards.

Those of us who had been to New Orleans were reminded of its graveyards.

Heading back towards the main road.

Heading back towards the main road.

This truck is just like mine. It once passed me on The Road and the driver yelled out 'Hola, gemela' (Hi, twin)!

This truck is just like mine. It once passed me on The Road and the driver yelled out ‘Hola, gemela’ (Hi, twin)!

Pretty flowers at the stable.

Pretty flowers at the stable.

Pretty dang good value for 100 pesos, huh?

I’m not nearly as sore as I was last week at this time as my saddle and stirrups were much more comfortable. My horse was a little headstrong, did a lot of head tossing, and was uncomfortable to ride at walk and trot, but was soooo smooth at canter! I could have cantered all afternoon on him!

We’re riding again on Monday. Can’t wait!

Gal About Maz

I have a farmer's tan on my legs! :D

I have a farmer’s tan on my legs! ๐Ÿ˜€

I had a lunch date with Dale today, so I worked a few hours this morning and left around 11:30.

I realised this week that if I were to take the expensive beach panga, I could get picked up right at that embarcadero by the bus that goes both to the Mercado and into the Golden Zone. I have no idea what sort of time saving that would be, though, since the bus meanders. But it’s a good thing to keep in mind if my leg ever starts acting up too badly to walk far or if I have something particularly heavy to carry.

Since I need the exercise, I decided not to explore that option today and just do my usual route of village panga and walking down Gutierrez Najera, stopping for a grapefruit juice along the way, to get to a bus stop on Avenida del Mar.

For the first time, I arrived at the bus stop just as the bus was pulling in. In fact, I was a second behind it and if another passenger hadn’t bodily placed himself with one foot in the door and one foot out to force the driver to wait that second, I would have missed the bus! They really just pause rather than stop for passengers!

The bus was packed, but I found a seat and rode all the way to about a block shy of Rico’s Cafรฉ. I walked there and got a pound of coffee. It was nice to get some before I got to a ‘need to count how many scoops I have left’ quantity at home. ๐Ÿ™‚

Love is like WiFi. It's in the air, but not everyone has the key.

Love is like WiFi. It’s in the air, but not everyone has the key.

It was then a short walk to the RV park, where Dale and her boys were waiting for me. Dale has been in the Golden Zone a full month now and loves it so much that she is going to renew for another month. The location is really convenient, I’ll give it that!

I was craving a hamburger, so we went back to the same place we ate last time I visited. Service was as good as last time. We ordered a giant ‘chocomilk’ again (*smiles*). Dale got the chicken quesadillas, a good value for her as she gets three meals out of them. I got the hamburger and opted for chips and salsa to share rather than fries.

Their salsa was phenomenal! It was definitely Gringoified as it wasn’t spicy. There was chile in it, I could taste it and feel just a little heat, but nothing major. It was just perfect for me and I got to the bottom of the bowl!

My hamburger today was nowhere near as juicy and oniony as the last one I got, but it was still fantastic and I would definitely go back all the way out there for a burger even without Dale.

We then walked a bit further north so Dale could show me a stretch of beach she discovered.

Gorgeous beach day!

Gorgeous beach day!

Waves crashing on rocks make the prettiest sound.

Waves crashing on rocks make the prettiest sound.

Low tide, looking south.

Low tide, looking south.

We had fun watching the parasailers (people pulled behind a boat while wearing a parachute) and I am going to research that as it’s something I’d really like to try.

That looks like fun!

That looks like fun!

Then, something quite unexpected happened: a beach vendor actually managed to sell me something I hadn’t planned on buying! I really don’t buy a lot of jewellery, but I saw these pretty sun and moon earrings and just had to treat myself! They are very likely not real silver and I surely paid way too much money and I really don’t care. They are just gorgeous!

I love dangly earrings, but rarely indulge.

I love dangly earrings, but rarely indulge.

The vendor said they were his 'eclipse model.'

The vendor said they were his ‘eclipse model.’

The afternoon was moving on, so we headed back to the RV park to walk the dogs quickly.

Then, Dale drove me to Soriana. She had already done all her big shopping, so I told her that I was very happy for the lift and could get home on my own. We made tentative plans to meet for lunch at the Mercado on Monday.

Before going to Soriana, I stopped in at Office Depot next door to do a little research for the English school here on Isla as I am helping them make the decision for the purchase of a printer.

I’ve also been looking for an agenda since the end of December and hadn’t found one, to my immense surprise. Dale also had trouble finding a calendar. So I thought an office supply store would have agendas and all Office Depot had were quite pretty hard bound perpetual agendas for a mere 82.50 pesos. I really like those because I can start them at any date, but they are super hard to find and expensive in Canada and the US. So I came out of there quite pleased!

Soriana was next. I started by wandering around the store looking for non-food things on my list and got help finding “the white cotton things to clean your ears” since Soriana staff don’t know what Q-tips are (whatever works!).

Food-wise, I didn’t want to lug home things I can find at Ley or the City Deli, but I did find some treasures. I bought all the hummus they had (two containers *g*) and spent a full 15 minutes in the ginormous cheese section drooling.

They had everything from local Mexican cheese to cheeses imported from Quebec, France, Italy, Spain, and more! I bought some ‘Manchego’ and another one that looked hard and aged that claims to be Mexican Parmesan. I look forward to trying it out!

So I pick up a bottle of sauce to look at the ingredients and they're in Japanese... The Spanish label only had the type of sauce and the nutritional content.

So I pick up a bottle of sauce to look at the ingredients and they’re in Japanese… The Spanish label only had the type of sauce and the nutritional content.

I thought I’d come out of there with bags and bags of stuff and spend a fortune, but I spent less than 500 pesos and my four bags weren’t even all that heavy. If I wasn’t absolutely beat, I would have taken the bus to Gutierrez Najera and walked to the panga from there, but I’d done my exercise for the day and really wanted a pulmonรญa.

Thankfully, there was one right outside. I couldn’t get him any lower than 70 pesos, so off I went. I’ve noticed that rides from the embarcadero tend to be cheaper than rides to it, probably because it’s harder to get rides there. I really enjoyed my trip!

I’ve lugged much heavier and cumbersome bags home, so I didn’t get a pulmonรญa on this side. A short distance from home, I came across a guy selling giant corn on the cobs from his truck for 1.5 pesos each and bought two.

I’m now unwinding with a glass of white wine (partial payment on some work I did recently) and I’ll have to do a small job tonight. Work is sluggish, but steady!