Off to Centro

After work, I decided to do yesterday’s postponed trip to Centro and the Malecón. I was just stepping out of my front gate when some tourists asked me where to buy beer in broken Spanish. Yes, they mistook me for a Mexican!

Then, I wasn’t even off my street when I found this:

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$5 (0.40CAD or 0.30USD) goes a very, very, very long way in Mexico! That’s nearly a week’s worth of tortillas for me, or almost my entire lancha fee, which is $8. By the way, I called the lancha the panga on the blog all of last winter because that’s what the Gringos here call it, but it is not a panga to the locals. They call it a lancha and that is the term I will use from now on.

Never mind that my knee is being bad, I still took Leandro Valle and its giant hill for the exercise. I used to rely on the La sirena sign to recognize my turn onto the street from Emilio Barragán, but thankfully no longer need it because it’s almost all gone:

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The wall in front of the very derelict house has finally fallen:

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Arriving at the Mercado was a real test of slipping back into my life as a Mazlateca, what with all the traffic and commotion, and it didn’t faze me one bit. I decided to stop in at my favourite dress shop for some skirts. I didn’t wear many skirts last year because I only had crappy tee-shirts to go with them, but having more tee-shirts this year that are presentable enough to go to Maz, I wanted equally nice bottoms! I’ve got the nice skirt I picked up in T or C (which I happened to be wearing today because, well, I’ve been living in it for months!), but a couple more were definitely in order.

The clerk at the dress shop remembered me and pulled out a bag of skirts that were all blech, with ugly greens, bright reds, and white. “I don’t want to look like the Mexican flag,” I joked and the gal burst out laughing and said, “How about the Canadian one, then?” “No red, no white, and not those greens!” was my firm reply. She told me not to worry and that she had another bag. This one looked more promising because there was some pink in it! She pulled that one out for me and it was a yes!

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She then suggested ecru and I said, “No. I have no luck with food,” which got another big laugh. I pointed to the bottom of the bag where I thought I was seeing a charcoal or black one. She pulled it out and said, “Café.” Perfect!

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This dark brown skirt will be a great neutral for me since I have a lot of tee-shirts that will look great with it, even more so than the pink one. It has some really nice embroidery on the hem.

The two skirts were $500 total. I don’t have to bargain at this shop anymore as I am now quoted their best price.

I then got very, very sad news. The seamstress has retired because of increasingly poor eyesight. 🙁 🙁 🙁 I was hoping I could hire her to make me some headscarves this winter. Dang. She recognized me from last year, too, and said I could have one of her last few smocked bodice dresses for just $200, but she wouldn’t hem it or make me straps, just so she could offload the stock. I picked through the dregs and found one I liked:

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I know I can cut it to length myself and the material doesn’t fray and rolls up to make its own hem, so it’ll be very wearable. And I can’t believe I’m going to say this, but I really don’t need the straps. I like the base colour and the splashes of colour over it remind me of a Monet painting. I don’t like it so much that I would have paid last year’s price of $350 (including hemming and straps), but it feels like a bargain at $200!

Then, I headed across the street to Waldo’s to see about a plastic tablecloth for the office ‘desk’, just to be looking at something nicer than I did last year. I really didn’t like what they had in the kitchen section and had the brilliant notion of checking the party wares section, where I found what I wanted.

By this point, I was very ready for food, so I started to meander towards the water. I stopped partway to see if the nieve de garrafa guy was still on his corner, and he was! He even had guava, which is a rare flavour. I had that with cheese and prune. So yum. Yes, I ate my dessert first. It’s a perk of being an adult!

Since I’ve had octopus, pork, and chicken tacos in my first week back in Mexico, I decided to have the beef ones at Copa de leche. Still as good as ever, especially since I can handle quite a bit of hot sauce!

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They serve Tecate, not Pacifico. I had Tecate at my friends L&N’s on Sunday. It’s not as smooth as Pacifico, but it’s good!


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After linner, I headed towards Plazuelo Machado. There is a ton of construction going on in the area, with lots of roads blocked to traffic. This is on Sixto Osuna between the Plazuela and Panamá’s:

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From there, I just wandered aimlessly, running into another couple that mistook me for a Mexican… I finally dead ended against Benito Juárez. It was getting late (ie. sun was setting), so I turned left and walked up to Constitución, took a right onto it, and went all the way up to Emilio Barragán, where I turned left to head to the embarcadero.

There was some sort of parade going on, most likely new Navy recruits. I took a discrete picture:

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There was a lot of chanting as well as folks sitting on the sidewalk enjoying the show!

A lancha was leaving as I arrived at the ticket booth, but the skipper saw me and returned to shore. I always feel special when that happens. 🙂

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A lancha going in the other direction passed us and an older Mexican lady was yelling, “Rae! Rae!” and waving her arms madly. I realised it was my landlady’s mother!

It was almost fully dark by the time I got to my front door! I don’t mind being out after dark in Maz, but my rule is that I have to take a taxi, unless I’m walking through the main streets around the Plazuela and Olas Altas, and especially to the embarcadero. I have no problem walking on Isla after dark.

Looks like I’m off work the next three days. I have no plans for tomorrow and will see if I crash. I do have plans for Saturday, however, but I’m not sharing those yet. It will be a new experience if I pull it off. 🙂

Mecánicos, Tacos y Zapatos

I helped some friends move yesterday, which meant I had to work longer on Sunday and postpone a trip to town. I decided to make the trip today. I didn’t ‘need’ to go, but rather wanted a change of scenery and one last beer and meal off the Malecón.

I did some work this morning until noonish, then took off for town. En route, I stopped at a mechanic Contessa recommended and whose work Croft was pleased with. There’s no building, just a pit in the ground!

There’s no way I’m doing a 4,000KM trip without having my truck looked at. I know at the very least that Moya needs an oil change and to have her brakes checked.

The mechanic wasn’t there, but the other guy working said he could get all my info. Between my Spanish, pointing, and pantomiming abilities he understood that I want the oil change and brake examination as well as to figure out why my windshield wipers aren’t squirting, repair my tailgate handle,  give me a quote for repairing the AC, and that I need the truck for the 23rd. He said I can bring my truck by around 9:30 tomorrow morning and they will take a look at it and come up with a price for everything.  I told him I would write everything down and that he could put the prices on my list. This way, there shouldn’t be any confusion.

There are tons of Ford Rangers just like mine (similar vintage, too!) both on Isla and in Maz, so I know that parts will be abundant, another reason why it makes sense to have the work done here, never mind that labour will be much cheaper than in the US or Canada! I have a figure in mind of what I’d be able to pay to get everything done, but I’ll be surprised if I have them touch the AC.

Then, it was off to town, the plan being to get in a long walk before eating.

Here’s the exact route that I took. It’s just over 6KM (3 3/4mi).

My exact route, minus the slight backtracking for gelato. :)

My exact route, minus the slight backtracking for gelato. 🙂

By the time I neared the Fishermen’s Monument (B) I was, as usual parched, never mind famished, so I asked for pulp in my grapefruit juice. Pulp=pulpa; octopus=pulpo, another pair of words not to mix up!

I sipped my juice as I ambled down the Malecón. It wasn’t particularly busy, but there were a few people on the beach and a handful of vendors.

Looking north to the Golden Zone

Looking north to the Golden Zone

Looking south towards Olas Altas

Looking south towards Olas Altas

Looking north to the Golden Zone again.

Looking north to the Golden Zone again.

For lunch, I had my heart set on tacos from Copa de Leche. They’re pretty pricy since they’re at a sit down restaurant, but soooo good. They have tender beef, grilled onions, and avocado; very simple, nourishing, and healthy!

carne asada tacos

carne asada tacos

I think of Copa de leche as being a ‘Gringo’ restaurant because it’s on Olas Altas and I really don’t see many Mexicans eating at those restaurants, but my entire service, including an oral bill, was in Spanish with zero attempt at speaking to me in English, plus the prices and food are more Mexican than touristified. However it can or cannot be defined, I really like Copa de leche and their low to the ground loungey chairs that aren’t comfortable for eating but wonderful for relaxing with a cold Tecate! The bill was $95 and I added $10 for a tip. My server actually thanked me for the tip, which I don’t think was particularly generous since his service wasn’t great! I’m glad he was pleased.

BTW, here are the steps to learning to eat Mexican sauces like the one in the above picture:

1) Innocence: Add sauce to your food without thinking, take a bite, lose three quarters of your taste buds.

2) Fear: Avoid all sauce.

3) Exploration: Realising that Mexican food is sometimes bland without sauce, start tasting sauce. But you put it on the tip of your tongue and burn it and remained convinced that spicy sauce is not for you.

4) Knowledge: You get smarter and add sauce to a small bit of food so that the heat can be diffused rather than tasting it directly. A bit or two of saucy food is enough.

5) Love: You know all sauce is delicious and embrace the fact that all sauce is also intent on killing your taste buds. Add a little to your meal, take a bite or two, and add more if needed.

Next stop was the little Panamá’s by the Plazuela Machado (the original location, I believe). A vendor rattled off info about a bunch of pastries after I hemmed and hawed for a bit. She highly recommended some stuffed with cheese, but had me at the apple-stuffed thing dusted with coffee and cinnamon and sprinkled with black chocolate, which will be breakfast tomorrow. While I was there, I used their bathroom. I will confess to frequently buying a pastry just so I can do that. 🙂

Then, it was a tiny detour to the gelato place. One of my new phrases this winter is ‘¿Puedo probar ___? (may I please try) and I used it to sample their ‘Snickers’ flavour, which was sooooo good; vanilla ice cream with caramel, peanuts, and chocolate. I got a small scoop in a cup.

Waldo’s and the Mercado were next by way of the bank. My priority at the Mercado was footwear!

The ‘dressy’ sandals I bought in Kingsville, TX, ahead of my last ‘trip to Mexico’ have served me incredibly well, but I’ve worn them clear through with all the walking this winter and by the time I got to the Mercado today, my heels were sore and I admitted it was time to let them go.

When I got here in November, I saw some pretty slip on leather sandals that I really liked at the Mercado and that would be good for light walking days, but I was quoted 400 pesos, a much higher price than I could afford at the time.

I went back to the same vendor today and said that I’m an American size eight (which is five in Mexico), wanted them dark, and without anything between my toes. The lady read my mind and pulled out these:

so pretty!

so pretty!

She showed me a few other models, but there was no point. I was smitten. 🙂 I asked her how much… Now, remember this was the exact same vendor who quoted me 400 pesos in November. Today, she started at $250.

I looked at her and said, “What’s your best price?”

She laughed, “$230 is the absolute best I can do. And only because I’ve seen you spend a lot of money on dresses and other clothes from other vendors this winter and you speak to us in Spanish.” (Not sure why buying from other vendors was relevant — maybe because it meant I might be a repeat customer?)

So deal done!

They are super comfy, with a thick foam sole and leather upper. I know the sole will wear out before the upper and I’m willing to bet it’ll be cheaper to have them resoled this time next year than to buy another pair. But for 18.80CAD, if I get only a single season out of them, I will have gotten my money’s worth!

As my friend Dale used to say, another great day in Maz!

Hitting the Bank

I posted on Facebook today that I might go to town to ‘hit the bank’ and my friend L replied that I should perhaps rethink my choice of words. I’m still giggling about that. It’s rather like the time I told my boss I was gone such a long time making the daily deposit ‘because there was a hold up at the bank.’ The English language never ceases to amuse me!

I wound up giving my landlady my last 500 peso bill to get gas for my last month here and do an advance payment on the final light bill. I have a pretty light work queue for the next few days, so I decided to run to town today for cash rather than wait. I was due for a break anyway. What with emotions running high in the first part of the week, I didn’t get much work done and really paid for it Wednesday and Thursday. It was really nice to have a slow morning, start on a project, then break for a long while in Maz.

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A common sight at home, but not here on Isla! Rabbits are conejos, not cojones. You only make that mistake once.

The exchange rate is bad/good, depending on how you look at it and I was FINALLY able to make an 8,000 peso withdrawal! That’s always been just above 700CAD since I’ve been here, my daily withdrawal limit. Today, it was just $687 with the fees!

After months of saying I would do this and not doing it, I finally went into the bank to change my 500s for smaller bills. I had lots of time in a very long line to work out what I would say. This is how I handle new situations, by anticipating potential questions and answers, so that I don’t get to a teller and go ‘Uh…’ The teller was friendly and I told her, “The machine gave me a lot of 500s and my landlady doesn’t like them. Can I change them for smaller? 200s and 100s would be good.”

She understood and said that she could do that. I handed her nine 500s, she counted them, and then asked me to confirm that it was 4,500 pesos. She then counted the money out in 200s and 100s and handed me a big wad without counting it out for me the way a Canadian and US teller does. I wasn’t worried, so I stepped out of line and found a quiet corner in the bank to confirm that I had 15 of each.

Then, I went to Beach Burger for lunch and splurged on not only a limonada mineral (I find it hilarious that beer is cheaper), but also the ‘Wipe Out’ burger with BBQ sauce and avocado. It also had cheese, mustard, ketchup, onions, and pickles, in addition to Montreal steak spice, and was probably the most amazing burger I have ever had. OMG! And I forgot to say no mayo but the server remembered and told the cook for me! That’s amazing considering the fact that the hot dog lady I see every week doesn’t remember that! For some reason, I also got chips and pico de gallo with this meal, so I came out of there stuffed!

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Nowhere near sick of pico de gallo yet and a meal without it is lacking! I can even handle a little heat now without crying!

The server always insists on speaking English to me and I always insist on speaking Spanish, this way we both practice! We chatted a bit and it came out that I’m renting a house here on Isla. He told me what he pays in Centro histórico for a one-bedroom with a bathroom, a mere 2,000 pesos! I was thinking of looking for a deal like that to be in town next year, but am not feeling that adventurous even if I know I am paying a Gringo premium on my place.

I headed to the Mercado next and look what I noticed kitty corner from the cathedral?

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Main Maz post office!

Am I blind???!!! How could I have gone by there so many times and only now noticed the post office?!

I then passed Panamá’s and resisted the call of the pastries, but I happened to notice this:

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What the heck is Canadian cream?!

Before getting veggies at the Mercado, I wanted to price a final (?) dress. I’ve seen it for months, since just after Christmas. It’s of a similar style to my Christmas dresses, but has a bit more embroidery, and it’s that gorgeous orangey pink I have on my dressing room walls at home that made me fall in love with some shades of pink.

The clerk pulled it down for me and I was rather disappointed to find that it looked a little small. Then the clerk said something to me (in English) I have never in my life heard, “I think it might be a bit big on you. Maybe you try it on over your dress and see?”

Um, okay. I tried it on and the fit was good! Woohoo! She wanted 350 or 360 and I got it for 330, which I knew was a very good deal. I wouldn’t have paid more than 350, though, as I’m really starting to stretch my clothes budget! I had planned to come home with a closet full of Mexican dresses, though, so these really are planned purchases. I just think it’s time to say I’ve hit the limit. But they’re so inexpensive and high quality it’s hard to stop!

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This picture doesn’t do justice to the colour or exquisite details of this dress.

Then, veggies and a quick Ley stop for yoghurt and ham. I was hoping they’d have some of that granola I found at Mega, but nope. The only ‘no sugar’ granola was three times the cost and sweetened with agave. Sugar is sugar, people. Read the labels!

I then took the shortcut I’ve discovered to reach the panga, where there was just one other passenger besides me. It was a quick ride since we didn’t have to go to the Colonia dock.

Now, I should probably try to get a little work done…

A Great Day in Mazatlán

Even though I didn’t need to be up early today, I was wide awake at 6:00. I am absolutely exhausted, but it’s not the sleep deprived kind at all as I’ve been getting plenty of sleep. So I didn’t try to get another oouple of hours and instead read for about an hour.

I put on a load of laundry while the water heated for coffee, then I breakfasted on my leftover tacos. They were surprisingly good cold! I had planned to reheat them in a pan with cheese, but they didn’t need any work at all, besides the addition of a little avocado. 🙂

Laundry takes a while since the machine is slow to fill, so I did a little clothes mending before I left. I didn’t think to bring sewing supplies from home, but I found a very adequate little kit at Waldo’s for just 12 pesos that had everything I needed, even the right colour threads!

A surprisingly decent little travel sewing kit for just 12 pesos.

A surprisingly decent little travel sewing kit for just 12 pesos.

After finally putting the laundry on the line, I headed to town. I have a birthday coming up so my first stop was the dress shop to put in an order for a dress. 🙂 It was going to take a while since the seamstress wasn’t in yet, but I wasn’t in a hurry as I had some errands to run in the area. I paid and said I’d be back in about an hour.

I head to Panamá’s, where there was a lineup out the door and up the block for its mediocre food! I grabbed an almond croissant to go (no wait for this), went back to the Mercado to get a grapefruit juice, and found a bench in the square opposite the cathedral to have my snack. This was the first time a juice vendor asked me to confirm my order. It surprised me that it took this long since orange and grapefruit have the same last syllable.

Next, I went to the fabric/craft store as I have a craft project I want to do. I was looking for felt and completely struck out. I used Google to translate, describe what felt is, spoke to a clerk who is fluent in English, showed a picture, and still we could not figure it out. I found something else that will make do.

I then asked for ‘cinta de contact’, remembering that Velcro didn’t work last time, and the guy looked at me funny and said, “You mean Velcro?” I said yes, but that the last clerk I asked had no idea what Velcro is. He shook his head and said he knew exactly who I meant. Interesting.

He left me in the capable hands of the notions counter and I asked for black Velcro. They only had white left and I could have a whole metre or a rather wrinkled remnant a few inches long that was exactly as much as I needed for my project! Finally, I wanted ribbon and they had rolls and rolls and rolls of the stuff, but I quickly spotted exactly what I wanted and got a metre of that.

Total cost of my purchases at the craft store: 2.5 pesos. I love this country.

Then, I went to Waldo’s to pick up a few things and then I went back in search of the earring lady. There are tons other vendors in the Mercado selling 10-peso pairs of earrings, but they look really cheap and/or gaudy. She has the nicest ones and I found her again! I picked out a pair that she says is made of green quartz.

I finished my errands by getting some avocados, wandered around the Mercado a bit to continue getting my bearings in it, and figured out where I needed to catch the bus to the Golden Zone, my next stop. As it turns out, it’s on Benito Juarez, in front of Waldo’s and just outside the dress shop.

My dress was ready and the seamstress had remembered that I needed to have the straps shortened on the last dress, so she put shorter ones on this one. I tried the dress on the minute I got home and the straps on it are perfect!

My new dress. I don't like the fabric as much as it is going to catch and create runs, but the pattern was the prettiest they had.

My new dress. I don’t like the fabric as much as it is a thin jersey-type material that is likely going to catch and create runs, but the pattern was the prettiest they had.

I know I already have a purple dress, but there really wasn’t much I liked today in terms of patterns and fabric weight. I wound up making a compromise with a lighter weight fabric that I wasn’t sure would drape well (thankfully, it does!). I almost went with the orangey red dress in the same fabric as my pink dress, but the clerk said to me (in English), “I really don’t think that’s the best colour for you,” so that was that. I really like the pattern (flowers) and colour of this dress and the fabric feels very light and climate-appropriate.

My business in the area done, I wanted to head to the Golden Zone. It was frankly time to get over my annoying derision for the area and get to know it a bit better.

It was incredible to stand on the curb outside the Mercado with all the crowds and traffic, not be even remotely overwhelmed, and recognize the bus I needed as it pulled up. I have just about mastered the basics of this wonderful city!

I decided to ride the bus a good long way, just to see what was what and then either walk or bus it back to the Golden Zone to get coffee and lunch. I settled in and off we went. Traffic was light and there was almost no one on the bus. We passed the Golden Zone, hit the marina, and continued on to Nuevo Mazatlán and Cerritos. The only other passenger besides me got off near the Crown Plaza Hotel and I decided I was done, too, and got off as well.

Crowne Plaza Hotel

Crowne Plaza Hotel

map

I started to head back the way I came, stopping at an Oxxo for a bottle of water. I used to carry a full 1L bottle of water with me at all times until I realised just how much weight that is. Yes, buying a small bottle of water at a convenience store is about 4x the price of the water I buy at home, but I walk a lot and my bag gets heavy! Plus, buying water throughout the day means I always get cold water. Even if I start with half a bottle of ice, I have warm water within a few hours.

I walked all the way from the Crowne Plaza Hotel to the Marina.

Another great translation -- bottom of the sign, "Only registers."

Another great translation — bottom of the sign, “Only registers.”

I appreciated the choice of sidewalk, choosing smooth, as it's better for my bum leg. :)

I appreciated the choice of sidewalk, choosing smooth, as it’s better for my bum leg. 🙂

I'm not sure what this plant is. It has very thick waxy leaves.

I’m not sure what this plant is. It has very thick waxy leaves.

Looks like a new residential complex.

Looks like a new residential complex.

It's rather in the middle of nowhere.

It’s rather in the middle of nowhere.

Mexicans use their roofs and I love how many houses use spiral staircases to access them.

Mexicans use their roofs and I love how many houses use spiral staircases to access them.

This is a big mall with expensive stores like Liverpool. There's a Walmart across the way that I have shopped at.

This is a big mall with expensive stores like Liverpool. There’s a Walmart across the way that I have shopped at.

A marina.

A marina.

I love the colour of the water down here.

I love the colour of the water down here.

See, I told you yesterday that there is always a toilet nearby in Mexico. :D

See, I told you yesterday that there is always a toilet nearby in Mexico. 😀

Can you imagine mooring here?

Can you imagine mooring here?

This almost makes me wish I was a boater. :)

This almost makes me wish I was a boater. 🙂

I was just praising the quality of the sidewalks and walkability of the area when the sidewalk just ended. Thankfully, there was more on the other side of the road!

I was just praising the quality of the sidewalks and walkability of the area when the sidewalk just ended. Thankfully, there was more on the other side of the road!

At the Marina, I found a proper bus shelter with shade and waited for some time for a bus. A taxi pulled up and offered me a ride, which I declined politely, as I had declined all the other offers I’d been giving along my long walk. “Why not?” the driver asked me in English. I replied in Spanish, “Bus to the Mercado, 10 pesos, taxi 120 pesos!” He laughed and said in perfect English, “Yeah. Can’t argue with that! Have a great day!”

There were folks across the street waiting for a bus going in the opposite direction (no shelter) and they came running across the street to me, asking if I’d ever taken the bus before. Yes… As it turns out, the buses kept going past them. I told them to stick out their arm to as a signal to the driver. As I said this, my bus showed up, so I was able to demonstrate.

This turned out to be one of the smaller ‘local’ buses (as opposed to the ‘tourist buses’). There really wasn’t much difference in the comfort level, but this bus was only 7 pesos instead of 10! BTW, the bus drivers have change!

It really wasn’t very far to get to Rico’s from the Marina, but I was glad for the lift. I got up just after the El Cid Resort and the driver asked me where I wanted him to stop exactly. I said Rico’s and he dropped me off kitty corner from the café.

To my surprise, Rico’s upped their coffee prices significantly since the last batch I got, from 124 pesos to 147 for a pound of Veracruz! Still a great deal, though! I was happy to use their bathroom while I waited for my order, but was surprised that it was not very clean.

It was coming onto 1:00 when I left and I was ready for lunch. I wanted sushi, something I haven’t had since November 29th, but I knew better than to have my heart set on it. There are tons of sushi restaurants in Maz, but they never seem to be open when I need them to be!

I walked down the street towards Rafael Buelna, looking at my food options and doing a bit of window shopping.

See these little squares in the pavement?

See these little squares in the pavement?

Super cute tiles! This one's a cat.

Super cute tiles! This one’s a cat.

A fish. There were birds and loads of other designs.

A fish. There were birds and loads of other designs.

A want a basin like this for the bathroom sink in my cabin!

A want a basin like this for the bathroom sink in my cabin!

I was nearly at Rafael Buelna when I found an open sushi place, Yoko’s! Heading south, it’s just after Panamá’s and before the Burger King on your left. The entrance is set back from the road, so it’s not evident that the place is open. I’m glad I investigated!

To my immense surprise, I was not only served in Spanish, but the menu was bilingual Japanese-Spanish with no English! I had no idea what half the Spanish words were and my Japanese was much needed and appreciated. 🙂

I ordered pretty much my usual, octopus nigiri and spicy tuna.

A lunch to behold! Non-spicy spicy tuna and octopus nigiri.

A lunch to behold! Non-spicy spicy tuna and octopus nigiri.

The octopus came with a sweet and salty sauce that I was worried would mask the delicate flavour of the flesh, but there was only a small dab of it and it wound up being very good!

The tuna was not spicy in the least, but was very fresh and generously portioned. This was a 10 out of 10 sushi meal! The bill was a bit shocking, 210 pesos with the tip, a very average price for this quality of sushi meal if converted to both USD and CAD, but quite high for Mexico! Totally worth it, though!

Looking out the window, I saw the Post and Ship mail service location. This is a great service for Gringos here long-term. You get a US shipping address in Texas and every so often, your items are brought to Mexico to be picked up at this location, with all customs processes and fees done for you. I couldn’t justify the cost of the service for just six months, but I bet the ex-pats love it!

Lots of gringos who live here long-term have a PO box here that uses a Texas address.

Lots of gringos who live here long-term have a PO box here that uses a Texas address.

See what I saw? Burger King with HOME DELIVERY.

See what I saw? Burger King with HOME DELIVERY.

After lunch, I decided to go to Panamá’s for cake and coffee, something a few people have told me I need to do just once, even if I don’t eat a lot of sweets anymore. I ordered the ‘coffee and slice’ special, asking for a ‘cafe Americano’ to get real black drip coffee to which you can add milk and sugar (as per my friend’s tip). I was brought a huge multi-tiered tray on wheels from which I could pick any dessert I wanted. There was tons of choice, but I really wanted chocolate and found a slice that looked like devil’s food cake with caramel, which is exactly what it was.

The cake was really good, but I wish I’d had someone to split it with as I could have easily been satisfied with just half of the huge slab. The coffee was excellent! So now I know that I can use Panamá’s for coffee, too! I don’t know if they do take out coffee, but I always a mug with me when I’m traveling, so there’s that option.

I was quite tired by this point, so it was time to wrap up my day with a visit to the Mega supermarket that I have heard so much about. It wasn’t far from Panamá’s; one or two blocks to Rafael Buelna and then perhaps one or two blocks down.

It had a lot, but, really, I think it’s over rated. I didn’t see much there that you can’t find at Soriana and the bigger Leys and the prices were generally a little higher for everything. They did have more imported foods, though, I’ll give them that, and more English signage and staff, which explains why Gringos like them so much and think that groceries are super expensive in Mexico! But I did get a few good deals and they had hummus! Reader Sandy left a comment yesterday about Mega having hummus, so I knew I wasn’t going to leave without some!

The Maxi in Gatineau had a ramp like this for the people and carts.

The Maxi in Gatineau had a ramp like this for the people and carts.

This is the exact brand of olive oil I buy in Assiniboia. I buy a bottle half that size and it costs me about $6. I was told olive oil is expensive in MX. BS, once again.

This is the exact brand of olive oil I buy in Assiniboia. I buy a bottle half that size and it costs me about $6. I was told olive oil is expensive in MX. BS, once again.

A jar of Dijon like that is about $4 in Canada, again a better deal in MX.

A jar of Dijon like that is about $4 in Canada, again a better deal in MX.

And this is where I burst out laughing in Mega.

And this is where I burst out laughing in Mega.

And then I saw more colours and I couldn't stop giggling.

And then I saw more colours and I couldn’t stop giggling.

COLOURED rice!

COLOURED rice!

All it is is sushi rice and colouring. Yes, I was tempted, no I did not come home with it.

All it is is sushi rice and colouring. Yes, I was tempted, no I did not come home with it.

500mL of Canadian maple syrup=OUCH pesos

500mL of Canadian maple syrup=OUCH pesos

This is the kind of jam my mother likes. I think it comes from France. The price seems similar to what I paid in Quebec.

This is the kind of jam my mother likes. I think it comes from France. The price seems similar to what I paid in Quebec.

Huuuuuuuuumus.

Huuuuuuuuumus.

That should last me a bit.

That should last me a bit.

At Mega, the expensive sweet relish is with the 'gourmet' imported stuff. The sweet relish of the people is with the olives and tuna. Ours not to question why..

At Mega, the expensive sweet relish is with the ‘gourmet’ imported stuff. The sweet relish of the people is with the olives and tuna. Ours not to question why..

Olives is a word that trips me up in Spanish -- aceituna. Aceite is vinegar and tuna is atún so aceituna makes me think of marinated fish. :)

Olives is a word that trips me up in Spanish — aceituna. Aceite is oil and tuna is atún so aceituna makes me think of sardines. 🙂

I know I just had lunch, but yum!

I know I just had lunch, but yum!

Now, this was a find! It's no sugar added granola made with ancient (high protein) grains. It will be great with yoghurt for breakfast!

Now, this was a find! It’s no sugar added granola made with ancient (high protein) grains. It will be great with yoghurt for breakfast!

I’m glad I went to Mega because now I know that I haven’t really been missing out on anything by going primarily to Ley and occasionally to Soriana. There were a few things that might make it worth popping into Mega occasionally, but going there won’t be a habit.

I’d promised myself a pulmonía for the ride home and was quoted 70 pesos. I talked him down to 65… but still paid the 70. 🙂 A panga was pulling out as I arrived, but came back to the dock for me!

The walk home from the panga was just about all the extra work I needed to do today as my bags were getting heavy. I’m cooked and beat, but what a great day off! Now, to decide if I want wine or beer!

The Cut and Paste Holiday

My current seasonal project involves typing up testimonies. I get a written copy of them and sometimes the stars align so that not only does the testifier read his/her testimony straight through, but the PDF is also OCRable, enabling me to cut and paste it into my document. This cuts down on my work load immensely and sometimes, like today, makes it possible to transcribe quite a bit of audio in a very short amount of time.

By noonish, I’d done two loads of laundry, Skyped my mother to wish her a happy birthday, cleaned the house, and done enough work to make for a large, but manageable load tomorrow thanks to the magic of cut and paste. I decided to take advantage of this and head to Centro, wanting to take full advantage of my last precious days in Mexico this spring.

Before going to the panga, I stopped at my landlady’s to pay the remainder of the tab for the electricity and also to tell her and her husband this, in Spanish:

“I’m having the same problem with my toilet as last time, that the water in the tank gets too high and the water gets all over the floor. I shut the water to the toilet and will be home tomorrow and all next week if you (to her husband) can come fix it. Oh, and by the way, here’s the 240 pesos for the light bill and when you’re over at the house fixing my toilet, can you please cut the palm frond over the clothesline?”

The pair of them looked at each other, burst out laughing, and clapped! When she could catch her breath, my landlady said that she was amazed by how my Spanish has improved since we spoke on the phone last fall and promised to get everything fixed for me and thanked me for making good on the light bill.

So off I went to Maz, taking Constitución since I wanted to have lunch on Olas Altas, unless Beach Burger at Plazuela Machado was (finally) open.

I found Maz's red light district. I am not being facetious. The picture of a scantily clad woman on the door and the men coming in and out of said door pretty much confirm it...

I found Maz’s red light district. I am not being facetious. The picture of a scantily clad woman on the door and the men coming in and out of said door pretty much confirm it…

I watched a man paint this proper, non-scary accessible entrance.

I watched a man paint this proper, non-scary accessible entrance.

Plazuela Machado

Plazuela Machado

Plazuela Machado

Plazuela Machado

This couple was wearing a pair of earbuds each and dancing!

This couple was wearing a pair of earbuds each and dancing!

Beach Burger was open! YAY! I keep hearing that they have the best burger in town and I wanted to know if that was true, especially now that I have a few comparison points.

I ordered a Tecate and a burger, making a point to tell the server NO MAYO. Mayo comes on just about anything with bred in Mexico and if you don’t specifically refuse it, your food will come slathered with it. I once made the mistake of asking if a sandwich came with anything and was told just lettuce, tomato, and onion… and it was drenched in mayo.

My meal took forever to arrive, close to if not a little more than an hour! I had my phone and caught up on some FaceBooking and reading. The server came by several times to give me an estimate on how much longer I’d have to wait (very accurate, might I add) and I decided, what the heck, and had a second beer!

When the burger arrived, it was beautiful:

INCREDIBLE burger. The fries weren't worth mentioning, beyond the reasonable portion.

INCREDIBLE burger. The fries weren’t worth mentioning, beyond the reasonable portion.

And it was delicious. I don’t think it’s possible to compare great burgers because they’re all unique. A burger, I think, is either good or not. This one was good. The bun was toasty, the meat fresh, generous, and seasoned with Montreal steak spice, which I adore. There was lettuce, tomato, onion, cheese, ketchup, and the mustard I’d asked for. At 70 pesos, it’s definitely pricier than the 30-peso burger I like in the Golden Zone, but it’s a heck of a lot closer. This was definitely a burger worth the wait!

The same super hot pickles that I get at Miguel's here on Isla. I actually ate the carrot.

The same super hot pickles that I get at Miguel’s here on Isla. I actually ate the carrot.

I like that I always know what my tab is going to be because taxes are included. Burger, 70MXN and 2x20MXN for the beer

I like that I always know what my tab is going to be because taxes are included. Burger, 70MXN and 2x20MXN for the beer

Workers were installing bollards to prevent people from driving down Constitución along Plazuela Machado.

Workers were installing bollards to prevent people from driving down Constitución along Plazuela Machado.

I then got some garrafa de nieve to cleanse my palate and tried jamaica (hibiscus) for the first and last time. Like the agua fresca, it was pretty flavourless. But they had guava again, which I haven’t had since the first time I had some!

The Mercado was next since I had to get an earring fixed. For someone who doesn’t wear a lot of jewellery, that’s a lot of jewellery fixing for me in one week! Unbelievably, one of the posts from the pair of earrings I bought at Yellowstone snapped right off! The jewellery repair guy did a good job on it, but unfortunately washed most of the patina off the leaf after, so now I have a super shiny leaf and a dark leaf. Hopefully, the patina won’t take too long to come back. The guy actually tried to give me back the 10 pesos I overpaid earlier this week, but I insisted that he keep it and I paid the full 40 pesos for this repair as well.

I finished up in the area by doing a Waldo’s and veggie run, then headed to Ley. On the way there, I came across a vendor selling 10-peso earrings and I picked up a pair with small seashells. I didn’t negotiate a lower price; that would have been ridiculous. I’m glad to be rebuilding my earring collection. 🙂

Ley has put my favourite yoghurt on sale before, but today it was especially cheap, only 15 pesos for the big size!!! I picked up two, one pineapple coconut and also the one with raisins, just to try something new.

At the panga, I was about to go down the ramp when a man called up to me to wait a minute. He was promptly berated by a woman behind me for telling me this in Spanish and that he was lucky I understood him. He retorted that he’s heard me speak loads of Spanish and to stop assuming that all Gringos don’t speak Spanish, it would get her in trouble! This rather made a linguistic bookend to my afternoon!

But the linguistic amusement doesn’t end there. I chatted in English with a couple on the panga when I heard a couple behind me discuss in québécois how much they loved my dress (the purple one I got in December). I turned and said, “Ben, merci. Je l’aime aussi!” (Gee, I love it, too!) The look on their face was priceless.